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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey all,

I am taking my '03 Taurus SES in on Friday to get all 4 struts replaced. I am heading uptown to see about paint jobs. I could only think of Maaco for paint jobs. I was going to get the 'signature' package, which they claim looks like the factory paint job (black). Any other places i should look at? I am in the Toledo,OH area.
 

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If their top-end package "comes very close" to the factory paint job and the factory paint job has all manner of orange peel..

If you want a quality paint job, don't take it to the Wal-Mart of body shops.
 

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MAACO paint job is just a step better than rattle can painting. :lol2: You used to just get an enamal paint job that looks good for a few months and then starts to go bad quick. I would consider saving your money and going to a quality body shop that takes pride in their work, not just painting for a pay check. MAACO will give your car that taxicab quality paintjob. They also arent going to strip your clearcoat before they paint.
 

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Cake monster
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People tend to worry about the paint quality far too much in my opinion, not that it's not incredibly important, but if the prep job isn't great or the guy didn't spend enough time on it then it won't matter how expensive the paint is, it'll look like ****. One of the reasons why a good paint job costs money is because of the amount of labour it takes to do properly.

MAACO isn't known for their prep work, from my understanding. I've never used them. Best advice I can give you is, if it's cheap then the quality probably won't be great. That's always the deciding factor.
 

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You get what you pay for.
A friend had his done at Maaco and within 3 months the clearcoat was peeling off!!
 

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I had a Volvo 850 Turbo I purchased used several years back. It was white and I wanted it red. It looked good (not great) when I picked it up. The paint lasted about two years. I got the upgraded package as well.

SUP
 

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The Signature Package? Is that the one where they mask off the glass, trim & tires before they spray?
(Don't waste your money there.)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 · (Edited)
I got an estimate today for the 'Supreme' Package (below signature). $1100 even. I asked to see some finished work with the Supreme package and looked pretty good. I'm only going to have this car for another 1-3 years before i trade it in. Either for a newer taurus, Grand Cherokee, or Ford SUV.

EDIT: It's a $549 package for $1100 because of $200-300 labor, and there are 2 spots of rust that they would have to wield and paint.

They can get 80 to 95 % of the chips and scratches out. (this car has been pretty scuffed)

I'm thinking about doing it. Gotta check the bank though!
 

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I got an estimate today for the 'Supreme' Package (below signature). $1100 even. I asked to see some finished work with the Supreme package and looked pretty good. I'm only going to have this car for another 1-3 years before i trade it in. Either for a newer taurus, Grand Cherokee, or Ford SUV.

EDIT: It's a $549 package for $1100 because of $200-300 labor, and there are 2 spots of rust that they would have to wield and paint.

They can get 80 to 95 % of the chips and scratches out. (this car has been pretty scuffed)

I'm thinking about doing it. Gotta check the bank though!
You still may want to check out some other independent shops, you may be surprised at the cost.
If they are going to paint the complete car and they arent getting out ALL of the chips and scratches, I wouldnt have them paint it. Why n ot just paint over the rust spots then ???? The most expencive part of ANY body work is the labor. To mix the paint for a or a complete car isnt any harder. Yes, more paint cost more, but its the prep / finish labor that adds up fast.
Check out other shops before you jump at MAACO. If you go to trade it in with a bad paint job, they will wonder why you skimped on the paint and what was wrong before you painted it.
 

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Paint is paint, whether applied over a good prep or not, $hit, I can paint a car, but I'm not a body man. Only takes a gallon or less to do a 4 door sedan. They should be getting 100% of the chips/flaws, even if it's only spot putty. Get quotes from the local (hometown) guys before you buy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You still may want to check out some other independent shops, you may be surprised at the cost.
If they are going to paint the complete car and they arent getting out ALL of the chips and scratches, I wouldnt have them paint it. Why n ot just paint over the rust spots then ???? The most expencive part of ANY body work is the labor. To mix the paint for a or a complete car isnt any harder. Yes, more paint cost more, but its the prep / finish labor that adds up fast.
Check out other shops before you jump at MAACO. If you go to trade it in with a bad paint job, they will wonder why you skimped on the paint and what was wrong before you painted it.
They can't remove all the scratches because they are deep scratches and chips. To get to Interstate 75, I have to drive down Jerry City Rd, which is all pebble. I drive 55 on a pebble road. I was expecting some chips to not be re paintable. And he said if he fiber glassed and painted over the rust, it would look like it did by summer. Plus if he wields it, i get a 1 year rust warranty.
 

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The only paint that holds up from Maaco is the urethane. I've had (3) cars done there in the urethane. All held up well. If you look at my gallery photos, the SHO, MT-5 and the Red XR4Ti were done in Maaco Urethane. After eight years, the XR4Ti job still looked pretty good.

They did repaint one car under the warranty at no additional charge. It came out okay.

Local independent shops all wanted 2-3 times more for a paint job. Yes, it may have been a better job, but for my daily driven vehicles, Maaco was a good value.

BTW, on two of the cars, they stripped the old paint to bare metal. Those were the ones with clear coat. The most expensive of these paint jobs came to $800. The other two were around $600.
 

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They can't remove all the scratches because they are deep scratches and chips. To get to Interstate 75, I have to drive down Jerry City Rd, which is all pebble. I drive 55 on a pebble road. I was expecting some chips to not be re paintable. And he said if he fiber glassed and painted over the rust, it would look like it did by summer. Plus if he wields it, i get a 1 year rust warranty.
I agree with Dan, paint is paint, if they WANTED to put in the effort, they could fill any scratch or chip with filler or just blend it down to bare metal. What I am seeing now, is that they arent going to do much more prep than a quick wet sand and spray. Also, if they are putting FRESH metal in, it should be more than a 1 year warranty if prepped and painted correctly.

What your telling me also about driving down gravel / pebble roads at 55mph is what tears up your paint, its going to happen again with the new paint. I would invest in the best mud flaps available, probably the WeatherTech ones, a small investment to save even the cheapest paint job. You may also want to look into / invest into some of that clear paint protective film for the lower half of your car, again to protect your paint.
 

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^+1 Chip Guard works very well and is fairly easy to DIY. You wouldn't know it's on my Tec unless I told you.
 

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It really depends on the skills or the level of care put in by each individual shop. My local Maaco is actually great, but the owner is also good. He has a '69 Cougar XR-7 that he drives to the shop, that was painted there. Looks great despite being purple.

I've had a few cars done there. One, I bought their top-of-the-line job and it looked like a new car...incredibly glossy and no flaws. My wife's car got t-boned about 5 years ago and I had the local Maaco shop do the insurance work...body and paint. Still looks good and is holding up today.

Now...there are horror stories and really bad Maaco shops out there...they vary by location and you really need to check their work and reputation out first.

One thing that holds true for all Maaco shops...never get the advertised $199 special...ever. Basically, they just paint over what's there, no prep. Don't even think about changing the color with that job. It would only be OK for an older car not worth much, that you're trying to sell quick.
 

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It really depends on the skills or the level of care put in by each individual shop. My local Maaco is actually great, but the owner is also good. He has a '69 Cougar XR-7 that he drives to the shop, that was painted there. Looks great despite being purple.

I've had a few cars done there. One, I bought their top-of-the-line job and it looked like a new car...incredibly glossy and no flaws. My wife's car got t-boned about 5 years ago and I had the local Maaco shop do the insurance work...body and paint. Still looks good and is holding up today.

Now...there are horror stories and really bad Maaco shops out there...they vary by location and you really need to check their work and reputation out first.

One thing that holds true for all Maaco shops...never get the advertised $199 special...ever. Basically, they just paint over what's there, no prep. Don't even think about changing the color with that job. It would only be OK for an older car not worth much, that you're trying to sell quick.
100% correct. Maaco's are privately held franchises. No two are the same. Ask them if they have an album of their work for previous customers. Truly good shops have a long list of satisfied customers and are not shy about bragging about/showing off their work. I have seen supposed Maaco work on trophy winners at auto shows.
 

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Cake monster
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Truthfully, with bodywork that's a little low. They'll use filler even if they weld it, or it will look like crap. What kind of area needs to be welded? Lots of shops glue things these days, since it reduces the chance of rust.

In my area, I would guess the total cost to be like $2,500 to have a decent shop do it. If they go by the hour, it really starts to add up, body work isn't cheap. There's no way they'll make each panel 100% true for you unless you pay more, that's just my thoughts on it though. It'll probably look alright, it can't be much worse than what's currently on it. It won't compare to a job costing twice as much though.
 

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100% correct. Maaco's are privately held franchises. No two are the same.
Yep, very true. I took my Audi to my local Maaco, (Sterling, VA) and was quoted $1300 to do the whole car, and a little bit of body work. It seems like a very nice Maaco. The Manager is a VW/Audi guy so he was all about painting my car.

I even did some searching on YouTube for Maaco paint jobs, and found quite a few very nice jobs they did. Again, it all depends on who runs and works at the particular Maaco. Independent body shops are the same way.

My best suggestion is to have all your dents removed via Paintless dent removal before you take it to them to paint. You will save some money on bodywork, and also because they will paint over the dents if you don't say anything.

I'm not against Maaco, but do some research before you decide to jump in.


Here is an example of a pretty good Maaco job:

 

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Good advice. I have heard that doing the prep work before taking your car to Maaco is the way to go. Even if they're not one of the better shops, good prep = good paint job barring runs or just total incompetence.

Just be sure, look over the car good before you pick it up. I had some racing stripes painted on a car by Maaco and I wasn't completely satisfied, so I had them re-do them before I'd accept the car as done. They did it without any hassle. I had to wait 2 more days for my car but it was perfect when I took it home. This probably holds true for any paintshop, but they do let you inspect the car before paying and taking it home. Once you take it off their lot, you've accepted the job...so look closely before taking it home.
 

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+1 on researching locally and getting local opinions of the place.

I had a 2003 Mazda6 for a short period, after denting the factory front bumper in a ditch, I decided to replace it with an aftermarket design (This was in 2004 and the price between factory and aftermarket were the same). I also debadged the car and the 'flying M' on the trunk was secured by two dowels. So I had the body shop paint the new bumper and fit it, fill in the two holes in the trunk and paint it and blend everything. All said and done I paid $700 in labor and paint, the color match and blending was perfect, you could not tell it was not factory paint.
 
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