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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey guys, as you can see this is my first post on this site however I am very famuliar with these types of sites and the information provided. Lets cut to the chase. I have a 93 Taurus 3.8 (AODE) and the trans has been giving me fits. It was rebuild about 45k ago (currently have 109K) and has been working great up till about 3 weeks ago. The shifts have been very irratic. Some days she will shift just like she always has other days it is like the trans is trying to rip its self from the car. Initially many said it was the NSS (Nutural Safty Switch), changes that out and still the same. Cant say that weather really changes things much on it. But I notice it most going about 10mph and then trying to accel (especially when going around a corner type speed). It feels like it is locking up and un locking 5-10 times really quick, most times its less than 1-2 seconds. If I take my foot off the gas all the fun will stop and it will just coast. OR, when you give it gas it will rev up like in nutural and then BOOM grab the gear and fly. Really dont think the trans is slipping as it shifts really nice when working right. Thinking the electrical gremlin is in there some where, maybe even a ground issue. So I know its long but details are good. Any help on this would greatly be appriciated.

-Bryan
 

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Cake monster
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Hey guys, as you can see this is my first post on this site however I am very famuliar with these types of sites and the information provided. Lets cut to the chase. I have a 93 Taurus 3.8 (AODE) and the trans has been giving me fits. It was rebuild about 45k ago (currently have 109K) and has been working great up till about 3 weeks ago. The shifts have been very irratic. Some days she will shift just like she always has other days it is like the trans is trying to rip its self from the car. Initially many said it was the NSS (Nutural Safty Switch), changes that out and still the same. Cant say that weather really changes things much on it. But I notice it most going about 10mph and then trying to accel (especially when going around a corner type speed). It feels like it is locking up and un locking 5-10 times really quick, most times its less than 1-2 seconds. If I take my foot off the gas all the fun will stop and it will just coast. OR, when you give it gas it will rev up like in nutural and then BOOM grab the gear and fly. Really dont think the trans is slipping as it shifts really nice when working right. Thinking the electrical gremlin is in there some where, maybe even a ground issue. So I know its long but details are good. Any help on this would greatly be appriciated.

-Bryan
Bad VSS? How are the engine mounts looking?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Bad VSS? How are the engine mounts looking?
I am looking into the VSS that sounds like it could be it and its a cheap part. I had every mount on the car changed when the trans was done 5yrs ago, unlikely but possible.

-Bryan
 

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Cake monster
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I am looking into the VSS that sounds like it could be it and its a cheap part. I had every mount on the car changed when the trans was done 5yrs ago, unlikely but possible.

-Bryan
There's other people with more experience on the VSS thing around here, I'm thinking that's it though. Just thought I'd ask about the mounts, because it'll really buck when it shifts rough if they're bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
When it is shifting like it shoud there is no "bucking" at all.

-Bryan
 

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Iirc, y-pipe has to be lowered for vss r&r on the 3.8 essex. For sh*ts and giggles, next time tranny acts up, tap the iac with handle end of a screwdriver or remove it and clean it with tb spray cleaner.
 

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When the transmission starts bucking, does the engine seem to run funny? I'm thinking the VSS, but a bad TPS can also cause the transmission to act funny.
 

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93 speedo is cable driven. Only connection between the VSS and speedo in the Gen 2 is the speedo cable plugs into the end of the VSS. Speedo can work fine and VSS can still be electrically bad.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Iirc, y-pipe has to be lowered for vss r&r on the 3.8 essex. For sh*ts and giggles, next time tranny acts up, tap the iac with handle end of a screwdriver or remove it and clean it with tb spray cleaner.
What is the "IAC"? From my continued research on this site and others the vss seems to be the next step. So i checked and the part is only like $20 but sounds like it will take me half a day to get it done.... SO that leads me to my next question.... Where is this thing and how hard is it to get to? Thanks for the help so far peps you have been a great help but keep it coming.

-Bryan
 

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Cake monster
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What is the "IAC"? From my continued research on this site and others the vss seems to be the next step. So i checked and the part is only like $20 but sounds like it will take me half a day to get it done.... SO that leads me to my next question.... Where is this thing and how hard is it to get to? Thanks for the help so far peps you have been a great help but keep it coming.

-Bryan
It'll be somewhere on your intake around the EGR and Pressure Feedback sensor. If you go to rockauto, you can see a picture of it if you look it up, once you know what it looks like, you won't miss it next time you lift the hood.

Idle Air Control Valve.

Definition (not by me):
An electrically-operated valve which allows air to bypass the throttle plate in a fuel injected engine to regulate engine idle speed.
 

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What is the "IAC"? From my continued research on this site and others the vss seems to be the next step. So i checked and the part is only like $20 but sounds like it will take me half a day to get it done.... SO that leads me to my next question.... Where is this thing and how hard is it to get to? Thanks for the help so far peps you have been a great help but keep it coming.

-Bryan
Not sure about a G2, but on a G3 it is on the transaxle, facing up, on the passenger side, way down in there, sometimes the heat shield is still there covering it up. If you look down between the engine and firewall, you can see it. One bolt holding it in, but be careful you don't break it off in the transaxle pulling it out. Mine was stuck hard, I didn't want to drop the exhaust Y-pipe to get at it from underneath, so I erred on the safe side and had a trans shop change it for me. Cost $200, but much less than the trans. R&R charge to remove a broken one...
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
Thanks for all the help guys! It looks like I will have to wait until after the holidays to get to it.

-Bryan
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
UPDATE:

I tried to tackle it last week and with the 3.8 and my big hands it was a no go. I refuse to take exhaust parts so it was off to the trans guy. $150 later (pretty cheap i thought) and she is running like a champ. Shifts really smooth, cruse control works and the verable assist power stearing is MUCH smoother. ALl this on basically a $20 part? Now for trying to get my adjustable rear control arms in.

-Bryan
 
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