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Discussion Starter #1
Intermittent starting and I cant figure out what it is.
Alternator is great. Brand new battery (1 week ago)

It started the other day. I go to start the car and nothing. I clicked my alarm thinking maybe I forgot to disarm. Still nothing. By nothing I mean no clicking from the starter. It's as if the alarm is still active and engaged in the kill switch position.
So messing around I close the door, arm the alarm and wait a few minutes. I open the door and the alarm sounds. I click it off and I start the car no problem. So I shut it off and wait a minute. i go to start the car and nothing again. This has gone on for a few days now and today it got the kids to school and when I got home and time to get them, no start. Good thing for older Sis ;)

So at this point I think it may be the alarm. It's an alarm Ford put in a week later after I purchased it. All it says is Ford Vehicle Security System.
I disconnected the 'brain' and I reconnected the main starting wire (at least what I think is the main wire - RED/BLUE) and I figure that's all I need. I try to start the car and nothing again. That is the starter wire is it not? All I did was revove the 'splice' for the alarm and re-connect that wire back to itself and that should put it back to the state of before having the alarm ... ?

Any ideas? Maybe it's not the alarm. Maybe starter/solenoid?

Again. Turning the key does not get anything from the starter. But out of the Blue it will just decide to start. When that is beats me and I'm not into guessing games with a car hahaha
 

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Could be the starter. You should check the voltage on the solenoid wire when you crank to make sure you are delivering a solid 11-12 volts to the solenoid. That will tell you if it's the starter or something with the wiring or alarm upstream.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Just to be clear. This is a NO CRANK/NO START issue.
I just dont know if it is the alarm or starter/solenoid
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I read that thread but where are the instructions on where to put the meter leads?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Ok. So to start off. My battery is at 12.4v from all the times I tried starting it. I dont have a charger to keep it charged so my tests are probably not going to help if the readings are low.
So meter NEG on BATT NEG and POS to POS (harness clip from POS batt cable) on solenoid was 12.4v so I know at least my cable is good.
Switching meter POS to the other TWO posts while crank/start reads 11.5 on each post. Reads all zeros when not in crank/start.

While this may be OK and by all means, should allow the car to start, could it be that electrically they are sound, but the internal part of the start (gears) are no good?

At this point I am trying to take the starter off but I think I had it replaced before because I see a NAPA sticker and this thing will not budge. They must have used a damn impact driver.
 

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Juice going to solenoid means circuit is good. May just be solenoid may be starter. Pulling starter and getting it tested is the next step. IIRC most Napa starters are 3 or more tears on the warranty
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Well seeing the NAPA sticker just meant that I guess I had it replaced ... just not sure when and why LOL
I had some serious work done back in '05 and many parts were replaced from engine to tranny so ...

As for getting the starter out. I am having a hell of a time. The bolts just aren't budging which tells me they must have been idiots and rather than use a torque wrench, used a pneumatic impact driver. No way someone wrenched this on by hand.
 

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Yup, your tests show the solenoid is likely sticking.

If you don't have an impact wrench for the starter bolts that means you need more leverage. Hopefully a good 6-pt socket on a breaker bar will do it.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
OK well everything finished now.

It took having a 1/2" ratchet rather than my 3/8 to get those bolts loose. Best part was my Brother showed up just in time to shove me out of the way and get greasy HAHAHA
He hooked it back up and told me to start it, then smacked it a few times with a small hammer and it started. So he pretty much confirmed it for me at that point.
After that I took it to Autozone and had it tested. It tested OK but very weak. Not enough that it could turn the flywheel so it was on it's way out pretty much.
Got new one for $129 w/lifetime and asked what they mean by LIFETIME and the guy said if I dont like that it got dirty, I could bring it back for a new one.

Thanks for all the help and tips. This is why I come here :)
 

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I am having similar problems with my 07 Taurus. I replaced the starter and still wouldn’t start or crank. Replaced the neutral safety switch and started right up. **** it off to clean stuff up a bit and the car wouldn’t start. No power to solenoid. Waited about an hour and it started so was curious to see if it would fail again so I **** it off and tried to start and now can’t get it to start again? Please help!!!
 

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I am having similar problems with my 07 Taurus. I replaced the starter and still wouldn’t start or crank. Replaced the neutral safety switch and started right up. ** it off to clean stuff up a bit and the car wouldn’t start. No power to solenoid. Waited about an hour and it started so was curious to see if it would fail again so I ** it off and tried to start and now can’t get it to start again? Please help!!!
Try replacing your battery cables. I had similar problems and I thought it was the neutral safety switch as well, but after troubleshooting I concluded that it was the battery cables. I replaced them and haven't had that problem since.
 

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Replaced the neutral safety switch and started right up
Check the alignment of the Neutral Safety switch. Mine had to be about 5 degrees off center line to get it to start in both Park and Neutral. When I lined it up using the tool, it would NOT start in neutral.
 
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