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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Here’s a long story I’m going to try and make short. First of all I’m talking about a 2015 Taurus Limited AWD. In late winter this year I started getting the message “system shut down to save battery” but the car would always start. I figured that since I was only driving it a couple times a week that the cold winter was getting to the battery. I started driving it more and the message went away. This issue was gone for a couple of months and then a couple of weeks ago the car turned over really slow but started. A few days ago the battery was completely dead. I jumped it and it was good for a day or two then dead again.

I figured time to replace it after all it’s 5 or 6 years old so I brought the car in and had the battery tested. The battery tested fine no issues. I’m thinking something has been left on draining the battery but I couldn’t find anything. I don’t have any warning lights on but I decided to do a quick diagnostics anyway. Here’s what I got:

U3003 - Battery Voltage below or above threshold
U0212 - Lost communication with Steering Column Module
B108A - Start Button

All these issues are described being electrical and the wiring and modules should be checked for “shorts”. The scanning tool also notes that these error codes are likely safe to ignore if there are no warning lights indicated. As I mentioned before there are no warning lights on.

Does anyone have any thoughts?
 

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How many years old is the battery? Just because it tested 'good' does not mean it is good. Newer cars do put constand demands on the batteries, and as you use it less often, you are almost treating the battery like a deep-cycle battery. If the battery is older than 4 years I would replace it and monitor feedback from the car. Don't trade in the old one if you feel it has value as a back up/spare/emergancy battery.
 

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You can narrow it down by testing for a parasitic drain. Google will do a better job than I would in explaining how to test, but it's not difficult.

Here's one (I'm sure you can find better):
 

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How many years old is the battery? Just because it tested 'good' does not mean it is good. Newer cars do put constand demands on the batteries, and as you use it less often, you are almost treating the battery like a deep-cycle battery. If the battery is older than 4 years I would replace it and monitor feedback from the car. Don't trade in the old one if you feel it has value as a back up/spare/emergancy battery.
Test of New battery and at 3.5 years of age. Reserve power is ~15% of new. Still cranks fine and will for another year or so. Test is about will it crank. Now long it will last if the lights are left on or what happens if the Alt fails and you are "on the road". I expect to change the Bat in my herd of 3 Bulls every 3 years in the Fall. You can get a meter that clamps on the bat cable and find out how much "keep alive" current is normal, or something is draining the battery. "Hall Effect" meters are not cheap but they work. If you check for drain, be careful that the hood open switch will tell the PCM to not go to sleep.
-chart-
 

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These newer cars are hard on batteries. I have already had to replace one on my '17, but this is Texas and the heat is rough on them. I finally broke down and bought a jump pack to carry in the trunk.
 

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These newer cars are hard on batteries. I have already had to replace one on my '17, but this is Texas and the heat is rough on them. I finally broke down and bought a jump pack to carry in the trunk.
I'm not sure they're made as well as they used to be. Prices are up. Warranties are shorter. Even my lawn tractor chews up batteries (until I got a tender for it).
 

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Battery life is lowered by vibration, temperature, over/under charge, let run down.
One thing new to me. My Buick '11 and my son's F-150 '17 both use Hall Effect monitor on the battery ground cable, and manages bat charging. Pic of chart of how GM drops the charge rate to break even and every ~25 minutes charged it a few minutes than idles the alt. Older systems charge to 13.8 to 14V so the battery is always being charged when it is fully charged. So charge management improves the bat life. In the Buick case, when the lights are on it charges normal 13.8V. And a side bar: Buick puts the battery under the rear seat.
-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE:

I
’ve replaced the battery and two of the three error codes have disappeared. The only one remaining is the U3003 - Battery Voltage below or above threshold. I think I may be able to resolve this one with a BMS reset but I don’t have any of the scanning tools. I’ve seen some manual methods but none specific to the Taurus. Does anyone have any ideas?
 
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