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SO there is a way to get the internal regulator out and replace it with a new one on a 2007 Taurus? I have not looked into it very much, just rememeber reading that the whole unit should be replaced. I guess I will have to look into it more, thanks for the info!
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Lisfin, you are adding (significantly) to the thread so in this case hijacking is welcome.

I only drive this car in the summer and this problem started last year. In my case, symptoms led me to believe that it could be heat related, but which component? Alternator was the most likely candidate, but it could also be the PCM or Instrument Cluster (or a bad connection between any of the components). I did some initial troubleshooting which included buying the workshop manual and a wiring diagram and getting Forscan. I only used Forscan to read fault codes and monitor battery voltage while driving. Then it was time to put the car up for the winter so I stopped working on it. I do recall in my research that I found others with similar conditions who replaced the alternator and that did not fix the problem (unknown quality of the replacement). In those cases there was no confirmed fix of the issue. I would gladly replace the alternator (or regulator) if that was the problem.

Lisfin, I think your graphs indicate that the Generator Monitor has lost input and that is what throws the fault lamp. I read a Ford document (it was about a newer model) that if the GEN MON loses signal for more than a specified time, it would report an error and it looks like the graphs are showing that. Of course if this is true there is still nothing that points to a specific faulty component. The only high voltage number I've read is 15.5v, so I don't think there is a high voltage condition.
 

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SO there is a way to get the internal regulator out and replace it with a new one on a 2007 Taurus? I have not looked into it very much, just rememeber reading that the whole unit should be replaced. I guess I will have to look into it more, thanks for the info!
Replacing the regulator is relatively easy, I have done it at least three times, a couple on my 2001s and twice on my 2006. The regulator is easy but what happens is that the slip rings wear to the point they don't function properly. They can be replaced also but is more complicated. I posted a thread on rebuilding the alternator on my 2006.
 

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I too have read of people replacing the alternator and not fixing the issue. I think they are buying a off brand one as a replacement. I believe these cars are kinda picky with alternators and a motorcraft brand OEM one would make it hassle free,but I am not 100% on that.

Currently the only issue I have is the annoying warning chime that comes on at random times, sometimes multiple times per trip, sometimes only once, and rarely none. My battery seems to be getting charged and the voltage does not seem to be overcharging my battery at all...maybe I will just live with the annoying chime for now.

I am glad you might have gained some information from the stuff I have posted in this thread, knowledge is power. I have been dealing with this issue off and on for over a year and have been collecting information about it when I see it and I am more than happy to share it here for others to hopefully benefit from it.

I do have one more thing that could be causing this issue just came to my mind, I did install a aftermarket stereo a couple years back, just a MP3/CD/Radio head unit and 2 12" subs with a small amp. Nothing to amazing, but enough to get some boom when wanted. It could be possible that the amp is pulling voltage that is unregistered to the computer and is throwing it off causing it to error out. I will have to try unhooking my amp someday and see if anything changes.


Thanks a lot Automender, that is big help and I appreciate all the input. I will look into rebuilding the alternator and see what it all entails and if its even worth my time and effort.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
It sounds like our warning chimes occur at very similar frequencies. Today on a short trip (about 7 miles each way) there were no chimes on the ride there and 2 chimes on the ride back. One advantage to using the Engineering Test Mode while driving is you get no chimes. The red battery comes on when the charging system error occurs, but no annoying beep. Plus you can get voltage read outs which give some assurance that the system is still charging and you won’t get stranded with a dead battery. A disadvantage is that you have to remember to push and hold the reset button before you start the car each time.
 

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Often times electrical issues may be related to wiring rot, maybe a broken wire from the battery or just alot if miles and you can use your jumper cables and tire iron in the ground outside the car to frame to get rid of static electricity. Often times cars can't be worked on that have alot of Static or wild alternator currents frayed around the alternator. The jack can be used on cement to ground it. Mine arched off the shock tower, hit the alternator went through the coil packs and hit the starter and now I'm getting the heads milled and it's all alot easier with the battery unplugged and a ground wire from the frame to the grass
 

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Although this might void your warranty, you might also cut the middle wire (GENCOM) and let the regulator figure out what to do all by itself. Just like it used to do. I assume regulators are downward compatible.
 

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Often times electrical issues may be related to wiring rot, maybe a broken wire from the battery or just alot if miles and you can use your jumper cables and tire iron in the ground outside the car to frame to get rid of static electricity. Often times cars can't be worked on that have alot of Static or wild alternator currents frayed around the alternator. The jack can be used on cement to ground it. Mine arched off the shock tower, hit the alternator went through the coil packs and hit the starter and now I'm getting the heads milled and it's all alot easier with the battery unplugged and a ground wire from the frame to the grass
Sometimes it also helps to close all windows, switch off the system, wait for a minute or so, switch on the system again and open the windows. Or better still: not switch on the system again.
 

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2006 Ford Taurus
I get an intermittent CHECK CHARGING SYSTEM message. The message seems to be random. I can drive to the store (15 min) and get no message and then get 3 messages on the ride home. It will beep and come on for varying lenghts of time (sometimes for a few seconds and sometimes longer). I don't recall it ever staying on for more than a minute.

Here is what I've done so far:
1) Checked DTCs - none recorded.
2) Checked battery voltage with the Instrument Cluster voltage meter and the readings seemed to be acceptable (never higher than 14.6 and never lower than 13.9). The readings were taken both when the error message was on and when it was off. Checked the Instrument Cluster voltage meter against another meter and results were similar.
3) Checked output of alternator with all accessories on and battery is still charging (around 14 volts). Turning all accessories on will not cause the error message.
4) The only clue that I have found is in the Engineering Test Mode of the Instrument Cluster. In the Engineering Test Mode there is a CHARGE STATE menu item. The value for this is 20$ when the message is off and it changes to $24 when the message is on.

I have searched and haven't found any references to this CHARGE STATE menu item and what the codes mean. Does anyone have any suggestions for troubleshooting / repairing this issue?
View attachment 218574 View attachment 218575
I have a 2006 taurus, it wouldn't start sometimes thought the starter was going out but it was the alternator sticken, wouldn't allow the motor turn over new alternator fixed it.
 

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SO there is a way to get the internal regulator out and replace it with a new one on a 2007 Taurus? I have not looked into it very much, just rememeber reading that the whole unit should be replaced. I guess I will have to look into it more, thanks for the info!
Alts are good for 125K but that is all I trust. The slip rings wear out as noted by others, and I have a pic. The DOHC Alt is easier to inspect. The Vulcan not so easy. Slip ring fails random miles, some go forever. Some like the pic at 135K. I may be paranoid but, I do not trust a battery or Alt. I remember 3 cases limping home with no charging, and one cost me $530 and a night in a motel. That 47K on a Lin. Rebuild failed at 80K. Bad regulator. Son put new battery in his SUV just before driving 800 miles to visit. Next day dead bat, will not take a charge. I loaned him old deep discharge I had in the basement and it got him home. I once drove 700 miles with 5 of us in the car that would only start with a jump. Never shut it off in the trip. Old battery sudden fail.
-chart-
 

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Although this might void your warranty, you might also cut the middle wire (GENCOM) and let the regulator figure out what to do all by itself. Just like it used to do. I assume regulators are downward compatible.
Mine is charging fine, I think the warning chime is kind of a wild goose chase for me. Watching the OBD data, if the voltage exceeds the desired amount by as little as .1 for a few seconds it seems to throw the warning. The voltage continues at the same rate even after the error so its not affecting the charging at all.

I thought it might be over charging some during the winter getting up to 14.8 but now that its summer and has warmed up, the voltages it is putting out are lower now, didn't know it reduced the voltage when warm and increases it during winter till I noticed this, and also read about it just recently.

Here is another way to get the alternator to default its output.
218621


It sounds like our warning chimes occur at very similar frequencies. Today on a short trip (about 7 miles each way) there were no chimes on the ride there and 2 chimes on the ride back.
I may have noticed if I let the car sit for awhile and the battery runs down a little due to very small loads when sleeping, that it wont chime for awhile possibly till the battery is fully charged with the alternator. I think it operates fine till the battery is fully charged and than you get warning chimes. Completely untested but just a observation. So maybe keep a eye on that and see if that is why sometimes you don't get a chime and sometimes you get it right away. Let me know if you notice that!
 

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According to your graphs, the regulator seems to pull down the GENMON (Light/Ignition = LI) line. All the way to 0 in fact. The PCM has no other option than to warn you, just like in my 2000 Vulcan the Battery light will come on. Now we have the following possibilities:

1. The PCM misinterprets the GENMON signal and thinks it drops to zero while in fact it didn't. But before that happened the communication went fine. So this is unlikely.
2. The PCM interprets the GENMON correctly and it really dropped to zero. The regulator should not do that, because there is no charging problem.
2a. The regulator is broken and thinks it needs to scare you at irregular times.
2b. The regulator is incompatible with the PCM software and gets confused by the GENCOM signal on the middle wire.

That is why I suggested to cut the middle wire. What could happen is:

A. The PCM reports that the communication to the alternator is lost and the chimes are now a constant annoyance. You'd better solder the wire back on.
B. Nothing changed, GENMON dropping, chimes and all. The regulator is broken.
C. Problem miraculously disappeared. The regulator is incompatible. You lost the nifty feature of preventing a drag of the alternator while starting, but compared to those chimes ...
 

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One other thing: one of your graphs indicated that the regulator voltage went up to 96.8 V. I hope that was a fluke and not real. If not, I would replace the regulator right away. The chimes are annyoying, but if such a spike is real, expensive damage might follow.
 

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The PCM manages charging ('02 and later) disables the Alt while starting, and also when at WOT for more power at max. Nice features.
-chart-
 

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The PCM manages charging ('02 and later) disables the Alt while starting, and also when at WOT for more power at max. Nice features.
-chart-
True. But at this stage Lisfin cannot know whether any of this actually works. The regulator does not seem to react properly to the PCM signal.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Based on readings I have taken it appears that my PCM does disable the alternator while starting.
 

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One other thing: one of your graphs indicated that the regulator voltage went up to 96.8 V. I hope that was a fluke and not real. If not, I would replace the regulator right away. The chimes are annyoying, but if such a spike is real, expensive damage might follow.
I could be wrong, but I don't believe GENMON signal shows voltage. It looks like its a % and not a V voltage. If what you are saying was true, when its at the mid point which is fairly often it would be at 50V, which seems extremely high to sustain just for a information signal and that tiny wire would probably get hot and melt.

I think the problem is the alternator is a reman that is not 100% compatible with this PCM. I have noticed that it will only throw the error when the voltage exceeds the desired amount even by .1v...My guess is the PCM thinks its overcharging and sends the warning even though its only by .1 and still within acceptable levels.

Also everything is working fine right now, I would hate to screw something up by messing around with it. Battery is charging fine, and not overcharging...guess I can live with a chime every now and than compared to possible electrical issues.
 

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I could be wrong, but I don't believe GENMON signal shows voltage. It looks like its a % and not a V voltage. If what you are saying was true, when its at the mid point which is fairly often it would be at 50V, which seems extremely high to sustain just for a information signal and that tiny wire would probably get hot and melt.

I think the problem is the alternator is a reman that is not 100% compatible with this PCM. I have noticed that it will only throw the error when the voltage exceeds the desired amount even by .1v...My guess is the PCM thinks its overcharging and sends the warning even though its only by .1 and still within acceptable levels.

Also everything is working fine right now, I would hate to screw something up by messing around with it. Battery is charging fine, and not overcharging...guess I can live with a chime every now and than compared to possible electrical issues.
  • Over-voltage shutdown feature limits voltage if output terminal becomes disconnected from battery
  • Load-dump protection feature helps protect the transistor from transient voltage spikes
Info from MC rebuild alt.
Fits '02-07. $172 on RA.
By measure on '03 DOHC. About one second after started the charging begins, at about 5 seconds up to full volts charging. This from analog expanded scale volt meter plugged in to the power port.

-chart-
 
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