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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 1993 sable gs and the interior lights will not shut off. To make it simple I just removed every bulb inside the car. I would love to have them work again though. The switch seems to work properly with the dash lights so I don't think that went bad. What kind of sensors or relays etc. control when they go on and off?
 

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Check the door jamb switches.
Every car that I have had a door jamb switch go bad was the opposite of what the OP posted. Instead of them failing and leaving the lights ON..... they typically fail keeping the lights off.
 

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Every car that I have had a door jamb switch go bad was the opposite of what the OP posted. Instead of them failing and leaving the lights ON..... they typically fail keeping the lights off.
Maybe from rust or debris jamming the switch inwards permanently, but the majority of door jamb switches and brake light switches all suffer from the same failure, the shaft or spring breaks inside the switch, which leaves the lights (interior or brake lights respectively) on at all times.
 

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Strange, I just came here to ask about the same thing.

'95 GL Wagon

Everything was fine until last night. Open door, lights (overhead, kneewell, cargo area) come on.

Enter car, close door, lights go off.

Key in ignition, rotate, lights come on as car starts. Lights stay on and will not go off. Drove several miles that way.

At destination, shut engine off, lights still on.

Open and close all doors including tailgate, lights remain on.

Pull Fuse #8, lights go off.

Reinsert Fuse #8, lights come back on.

Dashboard dimmer switch operates/dims dash and console courtesy lights as normal. Rotating in and out of detent which normally would turn interior lights on/off makes no difference.

I have Fuse #8 pulled for now, but that also kills the radio memory and clock.

Ideas?
 

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Checked all of the switches as best I could. Passenger front sticks, but in a way that would prevent the lights from coming on, not staying on.

Driver front works since the Key-in chime starts when the door is opened and stops when the door is closed.

Removed the tailgate mercury switch thinking it may be stuck. No change.

Keyless entry keypad works normally, but back light stays on there also.

Electrical schematic is a bit hard to follow across several pages, but I can't find too much else in common that I can easily check.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I checked the switches and cleaned them all up on the two front doors. Rear doors don't have them and I have a sedan. They door open chime comes on when I open the door and have the keys in the ingnition. When I shut the door it goes off. But the lights still stay one. I disconnected to the dimmer switch to try to rule that out and still, they stay on. The switches look like a littlw white plastic clip that sticks out a little. I have no idea if its stuck or how its suppose to move. Are there any other areas? Can I go in and disconnect them one by one to see if that would take care of it? Would they keep the lights on or off if they were disconnected?
 

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I'd say we have the same, or a very similar problem, but we're not getting much in the way of replies or suggestions. Maybe it's just because of the holiday weekend.
 

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Every car that I have had a door jamb switch go bad was the opposite of what the OP posted. Instead of them failing and leaving the lights ON..... they typically fail keeping the lights off.
Exactly, if they're stuck (in), the lights will remain off.

Gotta be a wiring issue. Have you done any stereo work or replaced anything electrical. I would start by disconnecting any wiring associated with the dome/interior lighting and make sure it's connected cleanly and properly. Almost sounds like something is reversed.

I'd start at the dimmer switch. Are you SURE it's not turned all the way up (where it clicks into place)? This turns the lights on and they'll stay on. I alawys bump this into that position when cleaning the dash. If it's not clicked into place all the way up, I'd pull the switch out, disconnect it and shoot some electrionics cleaner in the connection. I just fixed my rear window that would not go up or down with this simple method...spraying and reconnecting.

Here's what I use...Radio Shack. Many uses too.

 

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In my case all of that has been checked and no wiring has been done.

I have not disconnected the dimmer switch yet but the operation is fine. I may try to unplug it in the morning.

Unless someone has some other ideas of what to check, I'm leaning towards a harness or connector issue, but I have no idea how I'll be able to check. I do have the electrical service book with the schematics and connector assignments so I may be able to do some tracing, but that could be a real task.

Another possibility is a ground/short issue, but again, trying to find that could be a major pain.
 

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Sometimes, just unplugging and replugging a harness will loosen up some crap preventing a good connection. Of course, cleaning it when you have it apart is the best time to do it. If you don't have this spray, rubbing alcohol and a Q-tip will work too.

If it goes off when you disconnect the dimmer switch, I think you've found your culprit. If it stays on the actual wiring is at fault.

You may have to find a salvage switch if cleaning it does not solve the problem.
 
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