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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2001 Taurus Wagon with the DOHC 3.0 engine with approx 80k miles on it. Approx a year ago the engine was missing on a cylinder and I got an engine code that said I had a problem with the DPFE sensor. I replaced the plug wires, spark plugs, and the DPFE sensor. I cleared the error code and used it for about a week and a half with no problems. After that the check engine light came on and it started missing again.
Jump ahead to today when I decided to try to fix the problem again. I ran the codes and all I had was a generic "misfire on cylinder 1" code.
It misfires at idle a little and a lot at idle when the AC is running and puts a load on the engine. It misses a lot under heavy acceleration and if I rev it or accelerate hard it misfires badly around 4k RPM and won't rev any higher. The last symptom happened only a few times in the past year but it just so happen to do it today when I tested it out.
It was driven daily up until 2 or 3 months ago when it has been mostly parked. I need to get it fixed so I can get it inspected and licensed.
Any suggestions?
 

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I have a 2001 Taurus Wagon with the DOHC 3.0 engine with approx 80k miles on it. Approx a year ago the engine was missing on a cylinder and I got an engine code that said I had a problem with the DPFE sensor. I replaced the plug wires, spark plugs, and the DPFE sensor. I cleared the error code and used it for about a week and a half with no problems. After that the check engine light came on and it started missing again.
Jump ahead to today when I decided to try to fix the problem again. I ran the codes and all I had was a generic "misfire on cylinder 1" code.
It misfires at idle a little and a lot at idle when the AC is running and puts a load on the engine. It misses a lot under heavy acceleration and if I rev it or accelerate hard it misfires badly around 4k RPM and won't rev any higher. The last symptom happened only a few times in the past year but it just so happen to do it today when I tested it out.
It was driven daily up until 2 or 3 months ago when it has been mostly parked. I need to get it fixed so I can get it inspected and licensed.
Any suggestions?
Check ignition coil for #1 cylinder for cracks. Replace if cracks are found.
Replaced mine on my 04 sable wagon, 77k miles a few months back.
 

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2001-2003 DOHC have a coil pack behind the back cylinder bank (Cylinders 1-2-3 firewall side). I replaced one on an '01 at 130,000 and an '03 at 80,000. Your symptoms sound very much like (a fairly common problem) the coil pack is cracked. Maybe time for new plugs and maybe wires as well.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
As I understand it, cylinder 1 and 2 share a coil and if your coil is messed up, you should have issues with both cylinders. Is this correct?
 

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Not necessarily. Coil 1 = cylinders 1 and 5. Coil 2 = cyls. 3 and 4. Coil 3 = cyls. 2 and 6. Oem coils and plug wires should be marked. Its very possible to have a faulty coil pack and a single cylinder misfire (code).
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I have to give you guys credit. I pulled the coil and there was a crack next to the plug for cylinder 5. Put in a new coil, cleared the codes, and got about 55 miles without any codes or misfires. Thanks for the help.
 

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Having this same mis fire problem

Have not got the codes read yeat. But im having an almost duplicate problem with my 2000 24v DOHC. Could someone please show a picture of where these coils are located. Also a link to the part on autozone would be great.

I have already tried new spark plugs and cleaning the MAS. Any other ideas besides checking these coils? I am new to working on my own car and want to lick thius myself for financial and self respect reasons :)
 

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the wires on the plug lead to the coil. not sure what year tecs have coil on plug but if your year has the c.o.p then its a little box right on the plug
 

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OK thanks for the reply Bill and sheila your input really made me understand by explaining COP (coil on plug) so correct me if im wrong but i need one of these after i identify the codes and inspect for damage. http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...Z9n80r?filterByKeyWord=coil&fromString=search

But what are the plug wires then?

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/pa...N-jehiyZ8gcsm?itemIdentifier=976867_214061_0_

As i said in my original post i changed the plugs and it seems as that entire piece is a "plug wire". I unscrewed one bolt and pulled up to expose the plug.

So like the OP im running really ruff if i sit idle it will go a normal 1.5k rpm if rev the engine it hits pretty good till i hit exactly 4k rpm it will go no higher and misses and sounds terrible almost like a knock. It will also drive terrible till i hit my desired speed and let of the gas.

Am i on the right track?
 

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the plug wires... are insulators. this keeps the spark from arching. a bad or cracked insulator will divert the spark to the engine instead of the plug.
if the coil is bad then that would be the style you need.
have you pulled the codes yet? codes can point in the direction of what is really worng and why you are having this problem
 
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