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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Troubleshooting First:

A. I heard a clicking sound under the dash on the driver’s side of my 2008 Taurus X whenadjusting the round climate knob from defrost to A.C., etc.





B. To find the clicking sound, I used my mechanic’s stethoscope (from Harbor Freight) thatlooks like a Doctor’s stethoscope when he checks my heart. I decided to put the stethoscope on both theupper air blend door actuator (Dorman part no. 604-228) and the lower air blenddoor actuator (much easier to change).


C. I laid on my back on the floor of the driver’s side and my wife turned the key to the “on”position but didn’t start the engine. She then turned the round climate knob from defrost to A.C., etc. untilthere was a clicking sound. Thestethoscope revealed that the upper blend door actuator (Dorman part no.604-228) was making the clicking sound and it needed to be replaced. It is hard to see this upper part hidden inthe darkness


D. I bought the newpart (Dorman part no. 604-228) the day before the repair. A second name for this part is a“Defrost/Panel/Floor Mode Door Actuator” based on the Ford Workshop Manual forthe Taurus X.


E. Since this horrible part installation will kill a whole morning, my wife and I got out ofbed before 5 am and started working on it together


F. Warning! If youfollow my repair instructions, you will be listening to a Norwegian that hascarried hay-bales through three feet of liquid manure. Everything in my life is a struggle. You will also find out that my car part terminologyis far from perfect.



Repair Steps as follows:



1. I found my Ford Taurus X Workshop Manuals Volume 1 (Page 412-01-29) and Volume 2 (Page310-03-15) but they don’t have detailed instructions.





2. To create floor space, we removed the other vehicle from the garage, swept the floor, and laidout many magnetic pans for screws.





3. My wife put the driver’s seat all of the way back, lowered all four windows to reduce heat, turned the roundclimate control knob to vertical to turn off the fan, A.C., etc.





4. My wife placed rugs and cushions on the driver’s floorboard.





5. We used a 13 wattyellow florescent light and a small gray 3”x4” LED light that could be placedbehind the brake pedal and not burn my skin.





6. My wife removed three screws with a 7 mm socket on the big black plastic “lower steering columncover” and pulled it off.





7. My wife removed the black plastic lower steering wheel cowling with a 5.5 mm socket on threescrews. One screw required a ¼”extension. We used two screwdrivers togently pry it down and off.





8. My wife removed the speedometer’s black plastic instrument cluster finish panel screws with a 7mm socket. This part also came outtogether with the upper steering wheel column shroud which was connected by afloppy piece of rubber. My wife thencleaned this part because it was easy.





9. My wife removed four speedometer screws with a 7 mm socket and she gently rotated the top ofthe speedometer outward.





10. We removed theblue connector from the top of the speedometer. First, I held down the narrow blue tab and then my wife gently rolledthe gray arm out of the way in order to remove the speedometer. My wife then cleaned the speedometer becauseit was easy.

11. WorkshopManual Page 310-03-15: On my knees, I located the blue and white plastic “Speed Control Deactivator Switch” above the accelerator pedal. I removed this part by gently turning itcounterclockwise about 45 degrees and I pulled it out and let it hang fornow. At this point, it was toodifficult to remove the green plastic wire connector


12. Standing up, I removedthe upper right screw on the blend door actuator motor. I used two super long ¼” extensions (fromHarbor Freight) totaling a length of 29” attached to a swivel and an 8 mmsocket. I put the socket through thesmall gap behind the speedometer and I removed the screw (difficult). This screw fell down and was then lost insidea terrible location but I eventually recovered it with a magnet on anextendable rod.


13. We made a 16”tall human butt platform by stacking up two 8”x 8” wood blocks just outside thedriver’s door in order for me to lay down inside the vehicle. Myright arm and upper body needed to rotate like a Russian Ballerina as I enteredthe vehicle so that I could reach stuff under the dash (difficult).


14. I put the small LED light behind the brake pedal pointing upward. I put the yellow 13 watt florescent lightthrough the steering wheel with the end light pointing through the small gapbehind the steering wheel.


15. On my back, I removed the green plastic wire connector on the “Speed Control Deactivator Switch” toget it out of the way.


16. On my back, I removed the wire connector to the upper air blend door actuator that is very hard tosee. It is located in the darkness abovethe lower air blend door actuator so don’t get confused.


17. On my back, I removed the lower screw on the upper air blend door actuator with an 8 mm socket and asuper short ¼” extension and put them on a ¼” ratchet. My socket plus the extension was 2.5”long. I found my short ¼” extension in asmall red Husky socket set.


18. On my back, I removed the upper left screw (very difficult). My two ¼” extensions plus the 8 mm deep-well socket was 6.25” long (veryimportant length) that attached to the ¼” ratchet. My first ¼” extension was from my Craftsmantool set and the second one was from my small red Husky socket set. I fished this tool through a silver hole in abig steel bracket to get the socket on the screw (It is hard to explain this entryspot but I will remember it in my nightmares). I had to put my left hand on the extensions to create friction for theratchet to work properly in order to get the screw out.

19. As I held the old upper air blend door actuator in my hand, I noticed that the flat spot on thewhite gear was pointing at 2 pm. On the black plastic, I placed a small piece of duct tape at 2 pm to remember thisimportant location.

20. Since I never want to do this nasty project again, I sprayed lubricant inside the white plastic hole inside the vehicle’s air flowsystem in hopes that the inside mechanism will turn easier in the future andnot break the new part. On my back, I sprayed a lot of “Liquid Wrench Dry Lubricant” inside the white plastic hole. I put the red straw deep in the hole and heldthe bottom the can with my right hand. My left finger pushed down on the white spray tab on top of thecan. Even if this spray doesn’t help, it made me feel better and sometimesthat is all I got!


21. On the new part, I noticed that the flat spot on the white gear was pointing at 5 pm so it cannot be installed into the white plastic hole that is pointing at 2 pm.

22. On my back, I plugged in the wire connector into the new the new upper air blend door actuator (Dorman part no. 604-228). My wife turned the ignition key forward likea pro and stopped the flat spot on the white plastic gear at 2 pm. I then romantically granted her another month of marriage.


23. On my back, I unplugged the wire connector from the new part. I installed the new upper air blend door actuator part on its three tabs until it was seated properly into the white plastic hole.


24. On my back, I installed the lower screw on the upper air blend door actuator with an 8 mm socket and a super short ¼” extension and put them on a ¼” ratchet. My socket plus the extension was 2.5” long. I put a small piece of blue paper shop towel in the socket to hold the screw snuggly in the socket.


25. On my back, I installed the upper left screw (very difficult). My two ¼” extensions plus the 8 mm deep-wellsocket was 6.25” long (very important length) that attached to the ¼” ratchet. First, I put a small piece of blue paper shop towel inside the socket to hold the screw snuggly in the socket. Second, I cut two 1/8” x 2” long strips of duct tape and used them both to further strap the screw into the socket. Third, my wife slid a 2” round mirror through the small gap behind the speedometer so I could see the screw hole from my back. Fourth, I fished this tool through a silver hole in a big steel bracket to get the screw installed.



26. On my back, I installed the wire connector to the new upper air blend door actuator.

27. Standing up, I installed the upper right screw on the new upper blend door actuator motor. I used two long ¼” extensions (from Harbor Freight) totaling 29” long attached to a swivel and an 8 mm socket. First, I put a small piece of blue paper shop towel in the socket to hold the screw snuggly in the socket. Second, I cut two 1/8” x 2” longstrips of duct tape and used them both to further strap the screw into the socket. Third, I went through the small gap behind the speedometer and installed the screw (difficult).


28. From All-Datainstructions: Near the emergency brake, I removed the black plastic fuse box cover and I pulled out the white fuse removal tool that was located inside the cover. I removed the smart junction box fuse #15. Mine was a red 10 amp fuse. I waited over a minute with the fuse out which allows it to reset the system.


29. From All-Datainstructions: I reinstalled fuse #15 and had my wife turn the key forward (don’t start the engine). For over 30 seconds, I listened to the new upper air blend door actuator make noise as it initialized and calibrated itself so it could learn its left stop position and its right stop position. Then, my wife turned the key off.


30. Above the accelerator pedal, I installed the blue and white plastic “Speed ControlDeactivator Switch” and I clipped in the green plastic wire connector.

31. My wife installed the speedometer and its four screws with a 7 mm socket.


32. I startedthe engine and tested the defroster, floor heat, A.C., etc. and to my total amazement, it all worked properly (a heart touching moment).

33. With a 7 mm socket, my wife installed the speedometer’s black plastic instrument cluster finish panel screws. Mine was together with the upper steering wheel column shroud which was connected by a floppy piece of rubber.

34. My wife installed the black plastic lower steering column shroud with a 5.5 MM socket on three screws. One screw required a ¼”extension.


35. My wife installed three screws with a 7 mm socket into the big black plastic “lower steering column cover” panel.

36. This ended our highly romantic date! If my wife hada vulnerable tear run down her cheek after this brutal project, she didn’t let me see it!
 
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