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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm going to install my receiver this weekend, and I planned on running the power and RCA cables for my amp too, even though I haven't got it yet. I've read that when running the wiring harness to the back, it's easiest to run it under the driver's side trim panel. My question is, if I run the amp's power cable there too, will I have a lot of noise coming from my speakers? What's the best way to run the wires for the situation I described? Thanks.
 

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I have a '99 Graphite Blue SE 24V Taurus also.



I used the Scosche wiring harness, but the Metra is pretty much the same. I'm not sure which you are using.

Originally, I only replaced the receiver and speakers. This is what I did then. I ran the speaker wiring harness down the drivers side since the factory unit and the antenna are on the driver side in the trunk. However, there is enough wiring to run it down either side, but you will have to run all that wire from right to left.

Later I ran all new wire to all the speakers. My power wire runs down the drivers side and the RCA's run down the passenger side. Power flowing through the postive wire can induce noise on the RCAs if they are run next to each other. They should be separated. Chances are, you will still have some noise anyway. Make sure you have a good, solid, clean ground.

The wiring supplied with the Scosche or Metra kits can also be used to run directly from the receiver to the speakers, but more work is involved.

I have lots of pictures if you want them.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Originally posted by spridget@Apr 22 2004, 12:12 AM
I have lots of pictures if you want them.
Any pics you could post would help a lot. I'm going to use the Scosche kit, and I've heard that there's very little help from the instructions provided with it.

Another thing I just thought of: I plan on having one amp to power some subs, and eventually get another amp to power the speakers. Do I have to run two power wires (one for each amp) or is there a way I can just run one wire to the trunk and power both amps? The one powering the subs will be 1000x1 and the one for the speakers will most likely be 100x4.
Thanks.
 

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1- I have the Metra kit, and I run the cables for the amplifier termination and the connection for the antenna down my driver's side kick panel, and then up through a little area near the corner of the seat. I also have 8 gauge power (+) running down that side. I have never experienced any noise of any kind, just make sure that you ground it really well. My RCA's are running down my passenger side kickpanel, and then similarly, up through the corner of the seat. Use a straightened metal hanger and duct tape the cables to it to run through the B-pillers and there is actually a hole in the firewall that the power cable runs easily through.
Watch out and check your kit to make sure that all the harnesses are there. When I got the Metra kit, the brackets that hold it into the dash were broken and I was missing a harness. I also had to use my Dremel to shave parts of the plastic off to get it to fit properly.

2- For multiple amps, I would run 4 gauge wire to the rear, then split it up with a fused distribution block. That should be adequate to run up to about 800 watts RMS or abotu 1200 Max. If you make a nice amp rack, the distro block will look pretty cool, also...

PM me if you have any more questions about the installs...
JR
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
How long do the cables have to be to reach the trunk (battery to amp, and receiver to amp)?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks for all your help guys. I plan on doing the install tomorrow, and I'll let you know how it goes. Hopefully I won't have to ask anymore questions
 

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I ran my RCA wires down the passenger side. I have 2 gauge running down the drivers side of my car. With the amount of power running through that power wire, I would have experienced alot of whine if I ran the RCA's on the same size. Also if u run the power and rca's on the same side then you can get distorion, depending on the size of the power wire and amount of power running through it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Well, I got my receiver installed today, and I ran the RCA cables, but I couldn't get the power cables for the amp to run them today. The hardest part of the receiver was getting it back in the dash, I had to really push it to make it snap in.

I do have one problem though: The lights behind the climate controls don't light up when I turn my headlights on, so I can't see the temperature controls. Did anyone else have this problem? Or know what the problem could be? I really don't wanna take the whole thing out of the dash again, but it's so annoying not having those lights. Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
OK, I checked the fuses and I checked the connections. I simply can't figure it out. This is what I'm struggling with: The illumination wire. Now correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the illumination wire supposed to turn on the lights on the panel when the headlights are turned on? This is the wire I'm checking and it's connected to everything that it was originally connected to and the new receiver.
My rear defrost button is also not working, at least I don't think it is. When I push the button, the light doesn't come on to indicate that it's working. What's going on with this thing?
 

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It's most likely not wired correctly. The second possibility is that it is defective, but my money is on the wiring.

Pull it out and check the wires on the oval surround. It sounds like the illumination wire and defrost wire are not making a good connection. Does everything else work correctly? All speakers work like they should? Does the receiver have a dimmer fuction? If so, does that work?
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Everything else works the way that it should. There is a dimmer on the CD player, but I don't notice a difference when I turn on the headlights. I'm wondering if the problem could be in the wiring harnesses because, again, I've checked my connections and all are where they should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm going to take it apart again tomorrow and test the wires to see if they're getting any power, and if they aren't I'm going to run power to them to make sure that they work. If the lights/harnesses on the install kit are fine, this is what I'm planning to do for the fix:
1) Illumination - Run a wire from the parking light switch to the illumination wire at the harness. If the harness is the problem, I'll connect it after the harness.
2) Rear Defrost - Run a wire from the red ignition wire for the CD player to the power wire for the defrost. This way I'll be able to turn on the defrost when the car's on, like I should be able to already.
3) Ground - Just to make sure, I'll probably create a new ground for these too.

Does this sound like it might work?
 

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Yeah, that should work. However, You might be better of finding another source for the defrost power. Although it may not cause any problems, the defroster may cause some interference in the sound output of the receiver if they use the same power source. I really don't think you'd have a problem.
 

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Umm... I think the illumination wire is for the dimmer to be able to dim the HU lights. I typicaly dont connect it to anything just like the remote wire if you dont have an amp or power antenna. I only worked on gen 2 though so maybe its diff for newer ones.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Well, I managed to get it all sorted out over the weekend, now everything works! :banana: It turns out that the illumination wire and the ground wires were bad. What are the odds? Anyway, I ran the new illumination wire and ground wires, so everything works now, including the rear defrost, only the ground was bad on that. Thanks to everyone that responded with help, I appreciate it.
 
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