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Discussion Starter #1
wassup peeps
I want to add a cd player, amp and kicker box to my 1996 taurus this summer
and I want to do it myself
does anyone no where on the internet I can get detailed instructions of how to install

or do any of you know how

help me please

thannnnnkkkkss
 

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CD player - you need a dash kit to install it. www.sounddomain.com www.crutchfield.com about $60 i think, includes the wiring harness you also need. it needs to be run to the back of your car and plugged into the harness at the rear.

amp - need to run a power wire to your trunk where the amp will sit. also ground, the bolts on the rear seats work fine. make sure it is fused properly.

by kicker box i assume you mean subwoofer. just need the sub and the box and hook it up to the amp.

better to take it one step at a time. first, do some research and find out exactly what you want to buy. choose wisely because car audio junk is expensive (i know lol) and you don't want to find yourself upgrading in 2 months or unhappy with what you bought. get quality stuff, not pyramid/legacy/pyle junk that is going to melt down on you. 1 good subwoofer is better than 2 crappy ones.

if you give me a budget i.e. how much money you want to spend, i can make some suggestions on what products to take a look at. how to install it kinda depends on what you get, i can provide more detailed directions when you got the stuff and are actually installing it in your car.

peace 2
 

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You'll need the new faceplate/mounting kit and a wiring harness like Twilight said. That will make it plug and play. You'll need a $4 tool to remove the radio (availabe at WalMart). Then you gotta wire the new harness to the new radio, then you take out the old radio, put the new faceplate in, plug the wiring harness together, and put the radio in.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Originally posted by Twilight@Mar 20 2004, 12:26 PM
CD player - you need a dash kit to install it. www.sounddomain.com www.crutchfield.com about $60 i think, includes the wiring harness you also need. it needs to be run to the back of your car and plugged into the harness at the rear.

amp - need to run a power wire to your trunk where the amp will sit. also ground, the bolts on the rear seats work fine. make sure it is fused properly.

by kicker box i assume you mean subwoofer. just need the sub and the box and hook it up to the amp.

better to take it one step at a time. first, do some research and find out exactly what you want to buy. choose wisely because car audio junk is expensive (i know lol) and you don't want to find yourself upgrading in 2 months or unhappy with what you bought. get quality stuff, not pyramid/legacy/pyle junk that is going to melt down on you. 1 good subwoofer is better than 2 crappy ones.

if you give me a budget i.e. how much money you want to spend, i can make some suggestions on what products to take a look at. how to install it kinda depends on what you get, i can provide more detailed directions when you got the stuff and are actually installing it in your car.

peace 2
ok when I run a power wire to the amp where am I wiring it from
 
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QUOTE
ok when I run a power wire to the amp where am I wiring it from[/b]
You are going to have four wires to run to the amp. Your wires will be
  • Power - Red
  • Ground - Black
  • Remote Turn On - Normal Wire
  • Audio (RCA)
The Power wire will be wired dirctly to your battery meaning that you either have to
  • A. Drill a hole through the firewall
  • B. Find an existing hole (usually there are plugged holes already in teh firewall)
You will have to run the power wire all the way from the battery into the amp. The ground wire is hooked up to the chasis (sp?) but you want to make sure that the paint is ground off of the metal otherwise you won't get a good connection. The remote turn on wire is usually hooked up to a blue wire coming off the CD player. And the audio or RCA cables are hooked up to the CD player directly from the Amp.

If you have any other questions, I am sure that Twilight or myself would be happy to answer them
 

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I'm wondering.....why can't you pick up constant 12volts...and switched 12 volts at the fuse box? Seems like it would be much easier than going through the firewall-plus, I'm thinking maybe a little safer for the equipment.....right?

Also,on my '03 SE sedan, I have a grey plug-in type connector coming off of the main harness just before it plugs into the tuner/amp. Would that have been for a CD changer if I had one? If so, I assume the red w/yellow stripe is the hot wire (constant) and that the black w/green stripe is the ground.......anybody know if the grey w/red stripe wire perhaps could be the "switched" wire...or ??

Also, I am determined to keep the cassette/factory radio....plus add a remote CD radio. Where could I get my hands on a book that covers these awful radio systems including all of the wiring color codes? I have a 2003 shop manual and the color codes are not in there. Thanks!
 

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I have the 03' wiring manual. PM me if you need to know what wire is what. It isn't totaly correct in the book either, as I found out the hard way. It does give you a place to start though.
 

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The reason the power is taken directly from the battery is because you need a large gage wire. Since the voltage in the car is 12 volts you need lots of current to make lots of watts. (Watt=Volt*Amp) Usualy people run atleast 8 gage wire for the power to the amp, but the gage of the wire is determined by the amp power output, 8 gage wire is good for about 45 amps so 45amps*12Volts= 540Watts. If your amp is going to be pushing more watts you need thicker wire.
 

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correct. its generally best to use as large gauge wire as your amp will let you. and it also depends on the amp's efficiency. class d and t amps draw less current than class a/b amps do to make the power.
 
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