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Discussion Starter #1
Tore down my spare engine, and planning on rebuilding it with upgrades :D

Pistons and rods


Timing set, oil pan, crank


Better look at the crank


Block




Closeup on a cylinder


Oil pump (and a leaf! Time to sweep the garage out again!)


Even though the block is really dirty, the cylinders look to be in very good shape. All six show the original cross-hatch. Before too long, I'll take it to a machinist to get the bores checked for taper, and mains for straightness and roundness, and then machine as necessary. Plans for the rebuild include a nitrided or shotpeened crank, '07 pistons for a little bump in compression, an '01-'03 cam (easier to get the timing set to work with the '97 crank), ported heads and LIM, and of course, 1.7:1 rockers.
 

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I really wish Ford had designed those heads better. Valve reliefs in the block?! C'mon!! :curse:
 

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Thanks for sharing. Mileage? Reason why it was torn down? Maint history?
 

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I wonder what could be cranked out of that motor if you had all the time and money you wanted.....hmmmm.....



:noes:

:lol2:

Edit: can you tell I'm bored?
 

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Tore down my spare engine, and planning on rebuilding it with upgrades :D
....

Even though the block is really dirty, the cylinders look to be in very good shape. All six show the original cross-hatch. Before too long, I'll take it to a machinist to get the bores checked for taper, and mains for straightness and roundness, and then machine as necessary. Plans for the rebuild include a nitrided or shotpeened crank, '07 pistons for a little bump in compression, an '01-'03 cam (easier to get the timing set to work with the '97 crank), ported heads and LIM, and of course, 1.7:1 rockers.
[/b]
If you dont mind taking some good notes on that please, I'm looking to install a +40 cam, cryo'd crank, and 1.7:1 roller rockers, ported heads and LIM, exhaust porting, titanium valve springs, and possibly stroking or boreing to 3.4L's. I would really appreciate all the help i can get.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I would avoid exhaust porting; from what I understand, that tends to encourage reversion. I wouldn't worry about getting super-hardcore valvesprings either, unless you're trying to make this little engine into a high-revving monster. Crane makes some that are a bit stiffer (50lb/in more, if my math is right), and those are fairly inexspensive for the set.

It will be some time before I start the rebuild, but I'll try to take more pictures this time. I'm trying to keep my goals pretty modest; shooting for 200-ish horsepower, and hopefully more torque.
 

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A few of the ranger folks have issues breaking off teeth on the cam/crank sprockets from super stiff valve springs.

Porting on the exhaust side of the heads is a good thing on vulcans, but only to an extent. Yes, you dont want to enlarge the ports to match the size of the manifolds because of the reversion. However, the bowl and parts of the port are absolute crap, in stock condition. Some properly done grinding in those areas, and the heads really start to breathe right. :burnout:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah, any stiffness or weight added to the valvetrain ends up increasing the the stress on the timing sprockets and chain. If this becomes an issue, new timing sets are inexpensive (~$35 for both sprockets and chain and RockAuto!) and those could be surface hardened. But that only goes so far, and it would be pretty difficult to adapt or make a stronger timing set without spending lots of money.

The Crane springs are endorsed by Fred, and I would think they would make the valvetrain pretty safe up to 6000-6200 RPM, but if you want to go much higher than that, you'll need a different crank.

My bad on the exhaust porting; for some reason, I was only thinking port matching, not working on the port as a whole. Hopefully I can start work on the heads this week, but it's up to the guy who's helping me.
 

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I would avoid exhaust porting; from what I understand, that tends to encourage reversion. I wouldn't worry about getting super-hardcore valvesprings either, unless you're trying to make this little engine into a high-revving monster. Crane makes some that are a bit stiffer (50lb/in more, if my math is right), and those are fairly inexspensive for the set.

It will be some time before I start the rebuild, but I'll try to take more pictures this time. I'm trying to keep my goals pretty modest; shooting for 200-ish horsepower, and hopefully more torque.
[/b]
Not planning on going really all that heavy, I will be porting the valves slightly larger if i stroke it 3.4 or .8

I'm planning on pushing 250-ish conservatively and 290-ish as a goal.

A few of the ranger folks have issues breaking off teeth on the cam/crank sprockets from super stiff valve springs.

Porting on the exhaust side of the heads is a good thing on vulcans, but only to an extent. Yes, you dont want to enlarge the ports to match the size of the manifolds because of the reversion. However, the bowl and parts of the port are absolute crap, in stock condition. Some properly done grinding in those areas, and the heads really start to breathe right. :burnout:
[/b]
How big should I go without porting the exhaust valve? with the exhaust valve?

If I stroke it 3.4 or 3.8 how much exhaust/intake valve porting (if any) should I go for?

Yeah, any stiffness or weight added to the valvetrain ends up increasing the the stress on the timing sprockets and chain. If this becomes an issue, new timing sets are inexpensive (~$35 for both sprockets and chain and RockAuto!) and those could be surface hardened. But that only goes so far, and it would be pretty difficult to adapt or make a stronger timing set without spending lots of money.

The Crane springs are endorsed by Fred, and I would think they would make the valvetrain pretty safe up to 6000-6200 RPM, but if you want to go much higher than that, you'll need a different crank.

My bad on the exhaust porting; for some reason, I was only thinking port matching, not working on the port as a whole. Hopefully I can start work on the heads this week, but it's up to the guy who's helping me.
[/b]
Ok, but as a reminder i'm not aiming for revving higher, just more bullet-proof.

Thanks guys! :thumb:
 

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Discussion Starter #10
If you don't want to rev higher, is there any need to worry about valve springs? I don't think you can do that much enlarging with our heads; I think it's more a smoothing and tweeking operation. It seems to show some good gains with the Rangers, though. remember, when you stroke and bore, piston speed and mass increase with each operation respectively, so life will be harder on your crank unless you actually drop your redline. I really think the crank is going to be the weak point when you start getting into major engine work.
 

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I dont see a 3.8 liter vulcan happening, unless you do some MAJOR crank work (likely a custom one-off crank), and bore the cylinder walls paper thin.

You can get +1mm SI valves (not civic SI). The valve sizes themselves are pretty decent. It's the path to/from the valves (mostly on the exhaust side of the head) that has the problems. The intake side is almost too big, so it doesnt need much, if any, enlarging. Just a bit of smoothing.

I can't remember what one of the ranger guys said, but a +1mm larger intake or exhaust valve, makes it nearly mathematically perfect. Check RPS for more info on it. They've done some really cool stuff with vulcan heads.
 

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are you a NA guy or a FI guy?
personally, if i had the vulcan torn apart, id get it built for boost. and work my way up from that.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>
I would avoid exhaust porting; from what I understand, that tends to encourage reversion. I wouldn't worry about getting super-hardcore valvesprings either, unless you're trying to make this little engine into a high-revving monster. Crane makes some that are a bit stiffer (50lb/in more, if my math is right), and those are fairly inexspensive for the set.

It will be some time before I start the rebuild, but I'll try to take more pictures this time. I'm trying to keep my goals pretty modest; shooting for 200-ish horsepower, and hopefully more torque.
[/b]
Not planning on going really all that heavy, I will be porting the valves slightly larger if i stroke it 3.4 or .8

I'm planning on pushing 250-ish conservatively and 290-ish as a goal.

A few of the ranger folks have issues breaking off teeth on the cam/crank sprockets from super stiff valve springs.

Porting on the exhaust side of the heads is a good thing on vulcans, but only to an extent. Yes, you dont want to enlarge the ports to match the size of the manifolds because of the reversion. However, the bowl and parts of the port are absolute crap, in stock condition. Some properly done grinding in those areas, and the heads really start to breathe right. :burnout:
[/b]
How big should I go without porting the exhaust valve? with the exhaust valve?

If I stroke it 3.4 or 3.8 how much exhaust/intake valve porting (if any) should I go for?

Yeah, any stiffness or weight added to the valvetrain ends up increasing the the stress on the timing sprockets and chain. If this becomes an issue, new timing sets are inexpensive (~$35 for both sprockets and chain and RockAuto!) and those could be surface hardened. But that only goes so far, and it would be pretty difficult to adapt or make a stronger timing set without spending lots of money.

The Crane springs are endorsed by Fred, and I would think they would make the valvetrain pretty safe up to 6000-6200 RPM, but if you want to go much higher than that, you'll need a different crank.

My bad on the exhaust porting; for some reason, I was only thinking port matching, not working on the port as a whole. Hopefully I can start work on the heads this week, but it's up to the guy who's helping me.
[/b]
Ok, but as a reminder i'm not aiming for revving higher, just more bullet-proof.

Thanks guys! :thumb:
[/b][/quote]

For an interesting discussion on modifications to cylinder heads...see thread on "Dana's Edging" on allpar.com.

Dana's edging method should work very well on Vulcan heads...it would unshroud the valves (for much improved gas flow) and should increase the spread of the flame front into quench areas.

my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #16
are you a NA guy or a FI guy?
personally, if i had the vulcan torn apart, id get it built for boost. and work my way up from that.
[/b]
That's why I'm only bumping the compression a little and using a stock cam. I want to run lowish boost, probably around 8 PSI, just to keep things safe. I really want to keep using as many stock parts as I can so that when stuff breaks, it's still a cheap and easy engine to fix. Running more than that, and I'd start needing a more expensive crank, pistons, etc. This is way down the road, though. I'll either be running an Eaton M90 from a T-bird SC or twins of the smallest turbos BorgWarner makes. I'd like to see 200 NA, then eventually 250+ on FI. I want to keep it pretty conservative, though, since we are FWD, and even though the MTX IV is a lot better than an AX4S/N, it's still not bulletproof.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well, it looks like I may be putting this off for a while. SHO Source is going to run a group buy on Wavetrac torque biasing differential, I can put this off to get the diff while I can. I may be able to do both, but we'll just have to see where my finances end up this winter. The rebuild may become a tax return project.
 
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