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Idles Real Rough In Gear, Fine In Park

10859 Views 12 Replies 6 Participants Last post by  PhatzKustomPerformance
changed head gaskets..new plugs, wires, egr, DPFE..checked plugs, vacume connections, ect but no idea. It drives great..and in park it idles pretty good (some shudder at times) as well as neutral. But put it in gear and hold on! It studders so bad in gear at lights it confuses me..but again it drives well. I am wondering if maybe the valve cover or intake gasket is bad..I used all new of course but maybe one is bad (would a valve cover gasket do this..I know on bikes it will) so if no one has any ideas I recon I will have to yank off the upper/lower intake manifolds and valve covers and replace the gaskets...I am wondering if thats it? Hoping to GOD its not a head gaskets bad..that SUCKED doing. Any thoughts?
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first check for vacuum leaks first

Intake gasket will do this I had the same problem last year you may have over torqued the bolts on the intake.

valve cover gaskets will never do this they will only leak oil
Are your motor mounts bad? I mean, if they are, abnormal vibrations may be transmitted to your chassis that wouldn't normally be if the mounts were good.

Because it drives well and idles in park (and neutral, I assume) ok, I'm willing to bet the engine is fine. I would check your motor mounts (have someone observe your engine while you put it into gear, hold the brake, and apply a little gas. Check for abnormal engine movement)
Checked the vac lines a dozen times, it has been whoopin my butt for 2 weeks now! I recon I will pick up a vac guage today (had my other one stolen) as a vac guage will tell you whats wrong my how the needle mooves (bad vac line, bad head gasket, bad compression) and I doubt its the motor mounts as it drove perfect before the head gasket blew..but I will check that also. I heard I could spray a cleaner on the engine while someone had the car in gear and if it smoothed out where I sprayed it was the culprit (as in I spray the upper intake gasket area, the engine smooths out, thats where my leak is) any other Ideas? Again thanks fellas!!
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Dude, i've been having the same problem for about 8 months now (which translates to about 30,000 miles). As soon as my Cam Shaft Position Sensor was replaced it started happening. Had the motor mounts, head gasket, all that crap replaced. 97 Vulcan here. I've had it to my mechanic buddies and none of them can figure it out either. Everyone suggests a vacuum leak, but I can't find one of those either. Definately keep us updated on your progress, and if i find out anything useful, i'll let you know.
After HOURS of research I THINK I might have got it..the coolant temperature sensor! It mounts to the block and sends a WORLD of information to the computer. It is reccomended that it gets replaced every 15,000 to 20,000 miles..doesnt throw a code (but WILL throw a code like 401 and the reason behind it is because it controlls the EGR!). Here is some good reading http://www.lotuselancentral.com/cts.htm and http://www.wellsmfgcorp.com/counterpoints/...terpoint2_2.pdf . I am going to see if AutoZone has one tomorow, see if it helps. In theory, it explains the problems..I spose when the head gasket blew and the coolant dumped, the sensor went bad. Its a thought!!
yeah that would do it allright

but was there a code?
DING DING DING..we have a winer! Went and had the codes checked to make sure it wasnt a O2 sensor, it came back 1407 (pretty much the same as 401 and 1401..egr) but since my EGR and DPFE are new I decided to go ahead and buy the CTS as it will make the EGR codes show up (and by the way, as you all know, Taurus's dont need a CEL to have a code, they will throw a code and no light sometimes). $13 part (plus $20 for more coolant) and the car is running like a champ! It has a SMALL stutter now at stops but I think it might be the fuel filter (have one need to put it in) as it sat for over 3 months..could have clogged it. Anyone also have a reccomendation for fuel injector cleaners? I want a GOOD one..this $6 a bottle fuel tank addadive just dont clean like they should..need something that gets the job done RIGHT! Well im off to change the brakes, now that she runs good again!
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OH SNAP! I'm in a great mood right now, my sable can sit at a stop light and sit still. This is wonderful. 2 dancing banana's!!

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Where is this located on the Vulcan? Could someone snap a picture?
It's possible when you changed your head gaskets, that debris & carbon build up has loosened up and is clogging the butterflies or your injectors. B-12 Chemtool, SeaFoam, or Lucus injector cleaner is good. By 2 bottles and pour it in a empty tank prior to filling it and run it dry again and repeat the cycle again. This should clear up your problem. Sometimes the vaccum leaks are apparent even if you think the lines are connected right. They get brittle over time. Even a small leak will make your car shuttler. This has happened to me.

There's a possiblity that you are running the wrong plugs for your car. There are many crappy made spark plugs made. Stay away from Autolite and the single prong Boush plugs. Bosch Platinum +4's are the absolute best available. In my experience, Motorcraft isn't to my standards. With the +4's, your timing will improve, gas mileage WILL go up, and did I say, You timing WILL improve? Don't let anyone tell you they suck. They don't know what they are talking about. I wouldn't recommend any other brand, unless you have a supercharger or have a wet kit.
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I recommended B-12 Chemtool, SeaFoam, or Lucus injector cleaner, because these agents do not damage the seals in your fuel system. DO NOT use brands like Chevron Techron or STP. Those are very damaging to Ford fuel seals.
Stave..you must have replaced that bugger and now your happy! Isnt it fun to finally fix crap! I was sooooooooo happy to fix that!

NOW..code 301 is whoopin my butt bad! Cyl 1 mis0fire..replaced spark plug and wire..but nothing. Startin to get on my nerves..any one have any ideas?
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