Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner
1 - 20 of 23 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok..just replaced head gaskets again (first time didnt have the heads inspected..they were a little off so now they are about brand new after the machine shop got done with them) and got everything bolted up..started the car and it idle's fine in park..sounds smooth and nice..heck almost better than before the head gasket blew. Now in park its a whole different story! Sounds like its missing..all the plugs are on right..just real rough and all. When driving it..seems to sputter a little bit, sometimes seems to knock a little and lacks power..but didnt know if this was the gaskets and new valves kinda seating in like a bike. I was going to do a compression test but have actually read that you need around 100 miles on fresh valves for them to be seated (I build mainly bikes..and this is true for them, but mainly due to the higher RPM levels we see) so askin yall for some answers..any ideas??
 
G

·
Any check engine light? Did you make sure you reconnected all the vaccum lines, etc?

I had a similar issue, after replacing the engine in the 97. I was pretty pissed until I realized I forgot to plug in the cam sensor. :lol:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Got a cam sensor code..did forget to replace the plug so I did..still runs like crud (do I need to reset the battery for it to take effect?)..erased the codes..then got a code and looked it up on here and it is something to do with the gas cap. I swear this is a code throwing car from hell!! We have replaced all the sensors but the CPS..new head gaskets, new heads..it never seems to stop! I dont want to replace the engine as I have over $700 in this one now and could have bought an engine for cheaper than that!! Like I said..in park its real smooth and good..put it in gear and she shudders/shakes/runs REAL rough. Will be taking a lighter to it later today, see how well she burns..grrrr!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Also..since the search function on these boards really sucks, how hard are these engines to pull out and do they come out from the top or the bottom? Tranny have to come out as well or does that stay in. I did a search and EVERY time it came back with nothing. And Bob..you locked my SHO to SLO question..did a search before asking that as well..I wasnt trying to do the swap, just have a 89 SHO and this 99..wondered if anyone ever tried it..no way in hell would I hurt my 89 by takin out the engine!
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
15,922 Posts
The search by default is set to the last 30 days and newer posts so you have to change that option to all posts.

And the gas cap thing, tighten up the gas cap and disconnect the battery for half an hour. Then connect the battery and the light should go off.

And don't use such a big font.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I set the search for today and older..been around a computer once or twice before..lol. And I like this font dernit..if it wasnt spose to be used we wouldnt have it as a choice!! :homer: :mike: :party: :zumbujump:
 
G

·
The cam sensor will cause the running like crap issue. You may need to let it run for a while to burn off all the excess fuel that got dumped in while the cam sensor was disconnected.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I think the bearings are bad..like I said in park its fine, but you put it in gear (load on the engine) and she starts to shudder and buck, thinking a bearing is bad so have to replace the engine. LOL..I should send you a video of it with sound Bob so you can hear this beast!! I WISH it was only the gas loaded issue so I didnt have to spend all this money on a new engine!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
Change the plugs first. If you dumped too much fuel on a plug it could have fouled bad beyond cleaning it. I am running an aftermarket carb on my truck that is jetted a bit high. My truck does the exact same thing it idles perfect but when in gear shudders and shakes. I pulled my fouled plugs and cleaned them with cleaner and sandpaper it still did the same thing, then I changed the plugs with brand new and it runs like a new truck. Just sounds to me like badly fouled plugs. Do you have an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on it to see how the oil PSI is and if it is dropping under load? Does it knock at all? Did you change the wires? Ignition will also cause this. Test the wires. Does it backfire at WOT? ( wide open throttle} in park?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Have Bosch Plat. +4 plugs in it and brand new wires..read somewhere to try cheap old $2 motorcraft plugs, may try that. I can get a oil pressure guage..dont mind spending money to check it..cheaper than an engine! It knocks..bucks..growls..mis-fires..ect. I havent ran it WOT in Park..will check that out and let yall know.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
If it does backfire in park at WOT I would still guess ignition, timing or plugs. My truck backfired at WOT in Park but stopped when the plugs, wires and cap and rotor were replaced. Just trying to give you a few ideas by passed experiences. Anything is worth a shot before yanking the motor. Also did you replace the cam sensor?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
No..didnt replace the cam sensor, it threw a code for it..but it wasnt plugged in. It does back fire a bit a WOT in park..trying to find Motorcraft plugs to put back in it..but the stores here only carry $5 apiece platinum Motorcraft..thought stock ones were just plain $2 plugs..not sure.

I am going to check the fuel pressure..got a code 174 today (Stystem to Lean Bank 2) as we sat tonight an listened to it and thinking it is a fuel issue..its almost like the fuel injectors are having problems..has a LOUD sporatic "tick..tick....tick" sound like the injectors firing and having issues. Upon listening we dont think its the bearings (bearings would have a constant sound..I always had to listen from the inside of the car as no one was ever around to hold it in place while in gear) and when the bearings go on a car..you KNOW from the sound! Figgured the reason the bugger howls and bucks in gear is because when in gear its under a load..more fuel/spark needed so this might be the reason. I really am getting to the end of my rope here!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
I would rather troubleshoot a fuel or ignition problem than replace bearings though. I really didnt think it was the bearings. I would definitely say fuel or ignition like before. Check the wires and plugs. You may have got a bad new plug and recheck the GAP. You can get bad plugs even brand new ones. I am telling you the identicle thing happened in my truck and after I replaced the cap rotor plugs and wires it went away. The whole motor felt like it was going to shake out of the truck it was that bad. My truck would also backfire under WOT in park so I am going to guess you are having a very similar problem and it may be as simple as basic tune up parts causing this mess.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
I thought of one more thing. Have you had the plug wires off? Where you could have crossed one? Just a guess.
 
G

·
Possible causes:

Fuel system

-- Excessive fuel pressure.

-- Leaking fuel injector(s).

-- Leaking fuel pressure regulator.

-- Low fuel pressure or running out of fuel.

-- Contaminated fuel injector(s).

-- Vapor management valve (VMV) leaking.

Induction system

-- Air leaks after the MAF.

-- Vacuum leaks (vacuum lines and gaskets).

-- Restricted air inlet.

-- PCV system.

-- Fuel purge system.

-- Improperly seated engine oil dipstick.

EGR System

-- leaking gasket.

-- Stuck open EGR valve.

-- Leaking diaphragm.

Base engine

-- Oil overfill.

-- Cam timing.

-- Cylinder compression.

-- Exhaust leaks before or near the HO2S(s).

l Check intake air system for leaks, obstructions and damage.

l Check air cleaner element, air cleaner housing for blockage.

l Verify integrity of the PCV system.

l Check for vacuum leaks.


That's a copy and paste from the service CD. My money's on a vacuum leak. Make sure you check the areas around the upper intake, EGR valve, and IAC. Check to make sure there's no hoses left unattached either.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
35 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Swear sometimes I let the dumbest things kick my arse. I build bikes and sometimes (and know ALLOT of mechanics who do this) I will forget something stupid like a fuse. Well..replaced the Bosche +4s with Motorcraft..runs just fine now! Still want to run some strong fuel injection cleaner..any recomondations? I would use RedLine but none available here and dont want to order it..seems strongest around here is SeaFoam..
 
G

·
I've heard before the Bosch plugs are the anti Christ to these cars, but I've never heard a story this bad. At least the problem's fixed.

If the car's running fine, there's no need for injector cleaner. If you still want to clean things up a little though, I'd recommend Marvel Mystery Oil. It's cheap, and effective. You can add it to the gas, or oil.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
370 Posts
WOW I nailed it right on the head Best of Luck. Just definitely sounded like plugs to me.
 
1 - 20 of 23 Posts
Top