Taurus Car Club of America : Ford Taurus Forum banner

1 - 16 of 16 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
So after moving to the wild west, I've discovered there's way more rust free cars here than I could have ever imagined. So I found this one, and decided I wouldn't mind having a second car in case the Abarth goes down for whatever reason. The price was right, so meet Susan. She's a 2001 LS Premium. Silver Frost Metallic, black leather interior with a bench seat and column shift (unusual combo that I have never seen before), the mighty 24V Duratec, Keyless entry, automatic climate control, and autolamps. Oddly came without Mach audio or a sunroof, the latter being a good thing given its age, and the fomer something that will be rectified soon. Two owner car with 174K miles on it. Given the age and mileage she's in pretty good shape overall. Oil pan gasket needs attention, and one or more of the motor mounts is broken. Also needs some front suspension help. But it has been maintained at least somewhat over it's life time since the person I bought it from has owned it since 10K miles and wanted it to last. Transmission recently serviced with more to come soon. Shifts smooth and runs like a raped ape!
 

Attachments

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,827 Posts
Congrats on the "new" Sable, and welcome back to TCCA!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,661 Posts
I am jealous! My silver frost 2001 Taurus will be heading to the scrap yard with 194k miles due to rust and corrosion. Yours looks in pretty good shape and rust free will make it easy to work on and worth putting money into.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
7,302 Posts
Nice find Ryan! :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Congrats on the "new" Sable, and welcome back to TCCA!
Thanks Jeff!

I am jealous! My silver frost 2001 Taurus will be heading to the scrap yard with 194k miles due to rust and corrosion. Yours looks in pretty good shape and rust free will make it easy to work on and worth putting money into.
Rust is just no fun to deal with. This one isn't entirely rust free, it spent some time in Minnesota early in its life and they do use salt here in northern Utah. But they do it so much less frequently than they do back east, that cars last WAY longer. I was amazed at how clean the underside was after 17 years of "normal" ownership where the owner isn't doing anything to stop corrosion. Floors are flawless, rear suspension cradle has no rust at all, and the most common spot, the pinch weld/rocker panel, only has just started rusting. There's also the beginnings in one of the rear doglegs, but it's all pretty minor. It has less rust overall than my old car did, and that one came from Florida and only went through a few Ohio winters. Go figure.

Nice find Ryan! :)
Thanks Gerry. I'm pretty happy with it for what it is :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Time for a few updates. I have some goodies in stock, and some others on the way still. I had to redo my oil pan gasket again because I didn't realize that the RTV I was using needs to sit for an hour before you can torque it down. I also found out that the oil pressure sending unit/switch was leaking. That will get replaced once I take the Vulcan one they gave me despite mentioning multiple times this is an engine code S car. It's definitely annoying accessing that, you can only get like a quarter turn at a time with a box wrench. Also got a chance to look over the car some more. Definitely needs control arms (which I have) because the bushings are shot. The Ball joints look relatively new though, so we'll see how good they are. If they're already getting sloppy I have some Motorcraft ones to drop in. Inner CV boot on the drivers side is slinging a bit of grease despite the boot not being torn (it's coming out of the seam where it's supposed to go over the end), so that will need addressing eventually. Also a VERY slight water drip from somewhere in the water pump area, although I can't see any water accumulation on the pump area itself. One of the slowest leaks I've ever seen, so unless it decides to get worse I probably won't be able to find it easily. The front struts are Gabriel replacements, but I have no idea how many miles are on them. The front end still sits pretty high so I'll evaluate them once I get the rest of the suspension up to snuff.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Felt like doing some stuff. Had to replace the bank 2 downstream 02 sensor because it was showing a constant 0.0V no matter what. Possibly got damaged when I dropped the Y-pipe, who knows. I don't remember anything actually rough happening but the sensor was very old, so anything could have caused it. Ruled out a wiring issue. Was logging data today so I can get an emissions sticker for the car and finally get my plates. The bank 2 cat definitely isn't doing as nice of a job as the other one, but it's acceptable. No codes so far. Need to drive it more to ready all the monitors. LTFT's on bank 1 and 2 looked good, around 9 and 10% for both. Not the ideal 5% but nothing to be overly concerned about for now. The only thing that's odd is that the car's temperature target seems to be 100C/212F. It always sits there and the radiator fan runs on low, A/C on or not. Not sure if the thermostat in there is the wrong one or what. Investigation warranted.

New eyes installed, the other ones were hideous. Also upgraded the bulbs to Sylvania Xtravisions. I also had the fun of the 3 year old NeverStart battery that was in there being dead when I went to move the car this morning, so that got replaced with a SuperStart from Oreilly's. Surprising how few group 36R batteries are around locally anymore. AAP had nothing at all. But I feel better about having a new one anyway, it's been in the teens and 20's here lately.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Why silicone on the pan gasket? What brand needs to sit for an hour? Maybe the cold temperatures are to blame.
Theres a block split where the timing cover meets the block. You need sealant there, the oil pan gasket isnt enough by itself. And I was using Permatex black. The cold temp definitely didnt help, but even in normal temps you need to wait an hour before torquing it down.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
14,337 Posts
Theres a block split where the timing cover meets the block. You need sealant there, the oil pan gasket isnt enough by itself. And I was using Permatex black. The cold temp definitely didnt help, but even in normal temps you need to wait an hour before torquing it down.
This ^^. Coming from someone who did the pan gasket I can respect the pain it is :) Let me ask you this...….. when you dropped the pan, did you see any globs of said sealant in the bottom of the pan or the pickup tube? I did with mine.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
This ^^. Coming from someone who did the pan gasket I can respect the pain it is :) Let me ask you this...….. when you dropped the pan, did you see any globs of said sealant in the bottom of the pan or the pickup tube? I did with mine.
Definitely sucked doing it twice :) Noob mistake, but when you're in a hurry using someone else's garage...

And yes, I did actually. I spent about 15 minutes cleaning the outer edges of the pickup with a pick tool. There were many globs of hard, old sealant in there. I know some of it was from my first attempt, but I only used a little dab on each side so I certainly wasn't responsible for even half of what was in there. All was removed and all is well, kinda. Still leaks from somewhere up above, but the leak rate is massively reduced to where I don't care for now.

I just need to get this stupid EVAP monitor to bypass so I can get this car past emissions. Of course it's not supposed to be over 40F for the next who knows how long, so I have to do it the arbitrary and annoying way.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
7,827 Posts
Ryan, at least here in SE WI (i.e., the forzen north) you can pass the E test with the EVAP monitor incomplete, since EVAP test wont run for most of the winter. You can pass with the EVAP monitor being incomplete, but not if EVAP shows a fail.

Might want to check with your local DMV and see if there is a chance the same rules apply to you.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Ryan, at least here in SE WI (i.e., the forzen north) you can pass the E test with the EVAP monitor incomplete, since EVAP test wont run for most of the winter. You can pass with the EVAP monitor being incomplete, but not if EVAP shows a fail.

Might want to check with your local DMV and see if there is a chance the same rules apply to you.
You were right. You're allowed one monitor to be unready for this exact reason. Passed and good to go 🙂

Also forgot to show this. I believe this is some kind of record. Almost 19 years on one of the original bulb. The other one was replaced and dated 2011.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
So I did some junkyard digging to fix the door lock actuators, but I ran out of time to get the passenger side one. It's a real PITA to get them out, that's for sure. Not horrible, but I definitely am not going to enjoy repeating the process on the Sable twice. Also did the usual rounds to look for goodies. Next time I'm going to see if one of the two Expeditions in the yard has a solar sensor that's not trash. And find an autodimming mirror. It's been a while since I drove a normal sedan, and man people's lights are aggressive these days. Everyone around here has a lifted truck or SUV blaring HID's into my face.

Also did some digging on the cooling system mystery. Measuring inlet and outlet temps for the radiator using an IR gun showed some unusual stuff. The outlet near the water pump area was reading around 180F, and the heater core inlet was about 200F. But the lower radiator hose and thermostat housing were only reading 80F. Air coming off the rad fans is also unusually cool for how hot the car is supposedly running. I'm leaning towards a stuck closed thermostat, so I have a Motorcraft one on the way. I also ordered the revised cap just because this car still has its original. It's surprising to me that it's not technically overheating though. The fans are running constantly but the PCM shows the ECT never really rises above 212F no matter what I'm doing. At highway speeds it even decreases a bit to around 205. Given it's winter I am running the heat 24/7 and it's definitely hot enough heat to roast you out of the cabin, but still. I would think that would be insufficient to keep the engine from going nuclear. But, given I have such good heat, it would seem the water pump is working just fine. Guess we'll see what's what when I get the old thermostat out. Automotive archaeology can be fun at times. I'm just hoping this doesn't lead to a blockage somewhere or a junk rad.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
Can happily say the cooling system is fixed now. Swapped in a brand new Motorcraft 190F thermostat. I found an old Motorad inside, no idea what it's rated for. But I suspect it was stuck closed because the outflow pipe looked like it hadn't seen real coolant flow in a long time. Replaced a few clamps during the process, and dropped in some fresh coolant and the updated cap. Total cost was $30 (including the OEM oring). Gotta love Rockauto. Coolant temps hold right around 190F now. I even let it idle for 10 minutes at the drive through and it only creeped up to 201. Fans didn't kick on once.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,228 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Bunch of nuisance items dealt with today. Both front lock actuators were replaced. What a pain that is, mostly because you have to do it blind and it's finicky in general. Do not want to revisit that. Programmed remotes, fixed the keypad (it was unplugged, probably from someone trying to fix the door lock and giving up), and installed the Mach system that Durasel hooked me up with. Also got my reman radio with aux installed as well. Sounds as good as I remembered, lol. Up next are front control arms and possibly ball joints depending on how much play they have when they're apart.
 
1 - 16 of 16 Posts
Top