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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm a total noob at car audio.
I want some bass, but I know I don't want an box in my trunk.
Would replacing the stock speakers in my 2001 Ford Taurus SE give me a good amount of bass?
If not, would a Bazooka sub be a good option for my car?
 

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Ok. the basics. The radio in a Taurus is interesting to say the least. The actual radio in the dash is nothing more then a control panel. The actual RADIO and BRAINS is in your trunk. Under the drivers side carpet on the wheel well in the trunk you will see a small metal box. This is called the RCU (rear control unit) The one you have is VERY most likely the stock version which only gives each speaker 3 watts of power. Very very very crappy. There is a better version of this. Its called the Mach RCU. It is simply Fords Premium Sound System. Just by replacing this you will gain a TONx1000000TON bass and sound quality. Also there are tweeters you can add that came factory in some more loaded versions of the Taurus that replace the flat black cover on the doors behind the outside mirrors. Just by upgrading these two things you will make a HUGE difference in your sound and gain a lot of bass. If interested I have a Mach amp I'd sell to you shipped for about $55. You can get stuff at a junkyard if your lucky enough to find them and can get it a little cheaper but my yards charge a average of 30-40 for them and maybe 5-10 bucks for the tweeters. Durasel on here usually can offer a full Mach upgrade with the RCU and Tweeters to match for a fair price and offers a 30 day warranty I believe.

Let that sink in and post back :D
welcome to the forums
 

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QUOTE (DudeItIsJason @ Jun 3 2010, 12:21 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808897
I'm a total noob at car audio.
I want some bass, but I know I don't want an box in my trunk.
Would replacing the stock speakers in my 2001 Ford Taurus SE give me a good amount of bass?
If not, would a Bazooka sub be a good option for my car?[/b]
QUOTE (RByers @ Jun 3 2010, 12:45 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=808900
Its called the Mach RCU. It is simply Fords Premium Sound System. Just by replacing this you will gain a TONx1000000TON bass and sound quality.[/b]
Dude,
RByers nailed it. :notworthy: Adding this system is an awesome idea. Even if you decided to just add new speakers, the rcu should be swapped anyway to get the full potential out of the new speakers, the base rcu is just crap. If you are new to car audio, to save yourself time, frustration and money, the factory upgrade (mach) would be highly suggested. There is also a factory JBL system which includes a sub. (rare so more pricey) Both are very easy to install as its already to plug into with the existing wires you have now for instant upgraded sound/bass. Read up on the forums (alot of great info) and see what you come up with. I swapped the base rcu w/ a mach and am stoked about it :D I also added the tweeters & factory six disc changer as that was just plug and play too. Even at 3 dots bass, 3 dots vol. (my preference) my inside and outside mirrors vibrate a bit. Not too much, but just enough. :quickdraw:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
RByers, seriously though, thank you, I've been tripping about how to improve my stereo, 'cause it sucks right now, and you just hella helped me out lol.
For right now, I'll probably just look around at junkyards, for convenience's sake.
If I can't find one, I'll probably just buy yours.
When I'm out looking for the amp, how would I differentiate between the Mach RCU and the regular RCU?
Oh, and are they year specific or can I just look in any Taurus that generally looks like mine?
Also, if I find the tweeters in a junkyard, how would I make sure that they work and that they're the right ones?
 

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Difference between RCUs. The one you have probably looks like a sheet metal box. The Mach ones actually look like a amp. Heat sink all the way around it. If you think it looks like yours then it is. Any Taurus 96 and up will work but if you could find one out of a 2000+ it will have a little better SQ. As for tweeters. I "think" the ones from a 96-99 would work but not sure on the mounting exactly. But any out of a 2000 up would be the safest and they also look better in my opinion. The speaker grill is more flush and smooth. You might want to look but if you take a door panel off up front see if you have any connectors there not being used. There may already be wiring for tweeters. If so make sure when you grab the tweeter from the yard you get the wiring all the way to the connector. Thinks that's all you asked. Feel free to ask any questions you have or if you want pics I might be able to get some posted tomorrow.
 

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Read through these two threads, they also have helful pics :)

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...ach+factory+rcu

http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?...ach+factory+rcu

If or when you do take off your door panel to install the door tweeters, take off all the screws but be careful w/the yellow pop pins inside (you will know what I am talking about). Maybe you will luck out at a yard and you can practice on the car with the mach system you find! They can break easily and your left with a flimsy door panel, I know this b/c i broke one trying to get mine back in, so maybe grab a few extra when at the yard just in case.

oh, you'll need the wiring down passed the grey connector, I posted some pics in the for sale section that illustrates this pretty well. Also, if you look @ the pics in my garage under mods, i should have a pic of what it all looks like installed so you know what your looking for at the yard.

dsaucie7
 

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QUOTE (RByers @ Jun 4 2010, 01:38 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809173
I "think" the ones from a 96-99 would work but not sure on the mounting exactly. But any out of a 2000 up would be the safest and they also look better in my opinion. The speaker grill is more flush and smooth.[/b]
Only the tweeter housings from a '98 or newer Taurus or Sable will work in a gen 4 car.
 

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I have a nice set of Mach labeled tweeters that would work in your car perfectly if you decide to go with the Mach amp. Let me know.
 

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QUOTE (PURPL3H3YS @ Jun 4 2010, 08:32 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809251
I have a nice set of Mach labeled tweeters that would work in your car perfectly if you decide to go with the Mach amp. Let me know.[/b]
I'll 2nd the amp and tweeter upgrade.

I got my mach rcu off ebay by searching for the part numbers posted in the sticky thread here on the topic. I think I got mine for around upper 20-low 30s shipped.

I got my tweeters for around $10 shipped from amazon. I just tapped into the wires already there, drilled a tiny hole on the stock panel to run the tweeter wires into then attached the tweeters using some black adhesive.

I had it this way for a bit but just bought a new head unit and now deciding on an install kit. I'd offer my amp too but I plan on keeping it so I can put it back if I ever get rid of the car or hand it down to the kids.
 

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I'm a total noob at car audio.
I want some bass, but I know I don't want an box in my trunk.
Would replacing the stock speakers in my 2001 Ford Taurus SE give me a good amount of bass?
If not, would a Bazooka sub be a good option for my car?
You will want to eventually upgrade to a sub with a box trust me. I have a JBL system which is super nice since it has a dedicated sub easier to install for the box and sub. My sub is a Bazooka and so far has not given me any problems. I have a 500w amp, and sub which is plenty of power for me (only leave at 75%).

JBL are rarer as previously mentioned, but you can also upgrade some chips inside to make it output more to the speakers and such. Let me know if you need any help.
 

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Easiest way to find a mach amp... look for a gen4 with tweeters in the door, no tweeters, no mach. If you're lucky to find the tweeters they'll either say mach or jbl on the grill. I found the mach and tweeters that way. When you pull the tweeters, or anything electrical from a junkyard for that matter, take as much wiring you think may be necessary - or even more so. Don't seperate connectors, just cut closest to the main harness as possible.

So for now I have aftermarket door and deck 6x9's with junkyard tweeters and the mach. What I'm thinking I'd like to do is find a jbl, use the sub out on that with a single channel 6x9 and use a 4 channel amp for the other 6. Amplifying the 4 6x9's should give plenty of bass, the sub out on the jbl should give just that little extra boom.
Don't get me wrong, the mach is great, so much better than the base system, but better is better ya know.
 

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I've got a JBL RCU....

tested and with the pigtail on it for the sub so you won't have to make one.

$50 gets it to your door.
 

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You can get get only so much bass from 6x8 or 6-1/2 inch speakers, good amplifier or not. They will never play 60Hz or deeper bass content with the authority of a subwoofer. Personally, I would rather throw a nice "SQ" subwoofer into the trunk and get the signal for its amplifier off the rear speaker wire (turning them off completely). A good "SQ" subwoofer such as Peerless XXLS or Image Dynamics IDQ could fill all the lows from 100Hz down, removing the need from having uber bass speakers up front. A decent subwoofer setup could cost you $300 or so (remember the cost of amp, wiring), but you can always take it to a different car if you sell your Taurus. There is nothing terrible with having a box in the trunk. The subs I mentioned can work fine in a 1 to 1.4 cu ft sealed box. If it's no more than 13 inches tall, you can push it all the way to the back of the rear seat, so it won't be taking up that much space.

However, it still makes sense to run as much power to the front speakers as you can afford. In addition, it seems like no one has mentioned this, sealing and sound proofing your doors can improve the bass output of your speakers and reduce the rattles. If you want to see a tutorial on how to do it, head over to raamaudio.com and click on how-to or see Sound Deadener Showdown - Your Source for Sound Deadening Products and Information. The key is to seal the middle section of the door completely with a layer of Dynamat (or Raammat BXT2) and a layer of CCF (ensoline, dynaliner, etc). It's approximately 70-100 dollars worth of sound proofing materials if you want to do only the front doors. I would attach a few strips of Dynamat or Raammat to the plastic door panels because they still vibrate and rattle if you have very powerful speakers in the doors.
 

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The only reason I do not put a sub in my 98 is because I use my car mainly for travel to and from school and need all the space I can get to split gas for the 9 hour trip =). I plan on upgrading to the Mach amp and already have Pioneer speakers all the way around with a Pioneer head unit as well. It sounds good enough for me. I typically listen to anything from Rock to Rap in my car. With that and the stock system, I can still feel the bass in my car and it shakes my mirror a bit. I like that I don't have so much bass that it shakes houses or other cars when I drive by. That annoys the crap out of me since I live on a busy street. I don't NEED the Mach amp but I will probably get it anyways
 

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I'm a total noob at car audio.
I want some bass, but I know I don't want an box in my trunk.
Would replacing the stock speakers in my 2001 Ford Taurus SE give me a good amount of bass?
If not, would a Bazooka sub be a good option for my car?
I don't know much about car audio.but I do interested in it.I search on google and find one site,maybe it can help you.But i do not know little about it.Wholesale car camera,car camera recorder,in car cameras - Dropship From China
 

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The only reason I do not put a sub in my 98 is because I use my car mainly for travel to and from school and need all the space I can get to split gas for the 9 hour trip =). I plan on upgrading to the Mach amp and already have Pioneer speakers all the way around with a Pioneer head unit as well. It sounds good enough for me. I typically listen to anything from Rock to Rap in my car. With that and the stock system, I can still feel the bass in my car and it shakes my mirror a bit. I like that I don't have so much bass that it shakes houses or other cars when I drive by. That annoys the crap out of me since I live on a busy street. I don't NEED the Mach amp but I will probably get it anyways
Well, Taurus has a fairly big trunk, but if giving up about 1cu ft is a big deal what you need is a two or three 6x9 subwoofers mounted in the two holes for 6x8 speakers in the rear deck plus the empty 6x9 hole that was used by the optional JBL sub. A 6x9 subwoofer has cone area compared to an 8 inch subwoofer. The only problem with that in free air mode, a single 6x9 sub will not produce a whole lot of deep bass. But if you get 2 or 3 of them, it could be something more tangible. Note that I don't mean getting 6x9 speakers. Putting 6x9 speakers in the rear to get some bass is pretty bad way to get bass because they will shift the sound stage to the rear of the car. What you need is a real 6x9 subwoofer, such as the 8ohm Tang Band subwoofer sold by parts-express.com, and low passed as say 100Hz or so, so that it doesn't play high frequencies. Get two or three of them, hook them up in parallel, resulting in 3-4ohm and connect them to an external amplifier. The only problem is that this stuff is pretty expensive. One Tang Band subwoofer costs about $70, so two of them cost about $140. A single $12 subwoofer sold for the same money (e.g. Infinity Kappa 120.9w) will blow them out of water. And small door speaker still don't produce that much of deep bass. Bass is a pretty wide frequency range. Small speakers can play bass pretty well in the 100-200Hz region (better than most subwoofers). This is probably what you hear now. Really good speakers sometimes will play down to like 70Hz with authority as long as they're given a good amount of power. But below 70Hz even good speakers will choke and not produce that much bass. I have really good speaker up front with 150watts RMS running to each side, and they still won't play anything deeper than 70Hz that well.
 

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I know this is a little late, I haven't been around.....

Shwedinator, you have a pioneer head unit? Going through the rcu before the speakers?? Don't bother with Mach or Jbl amp if you have an aftermarket head... You'd be MUCH better off wiring the speakers directly from the head unit, take the rcu out of the equation.
 
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