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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I just bought this car today for my niece...99 DOHC with 167k. I have 2 issues...first I drove the car 7 miles in 43 degree temps....the heat in the car was warm...I stopped and the right heater hose was hot....i then removed the coolant cap and the water was COLD!!!! I thought WTF? I drove back another 7 miles and checked and the water was warm in the coolant tank. OK...I also noticed that the gauge barely came off of the "C" and only after the 14 miles did it just touch the normal line on the very bottom. Does this mean I might have a bad thermostat?
#2...The guy said every now and then the car will just quit at a light....he replaced the fuel pump and filter and the Map sensor (air intake) no change! I did notice while I was at idle the whole motor kicked hard and almost died....like an electrical short. Does anyone have a clue? he said the shop has checked everything and cant find anything wrong!
Thanks in advance, Garth
 

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#1 is a bad thermostat

#2 is probably not electrical, could be bad plugs, dirty fuel filter, dirty MAF, Idle Air Control valve could be bad/dirty, vacum leak, pcv valve, or EGR related.

Do you have any codes?

1st place i would start is plugs + wires if they are over 100k on either, Autolite/Motorcraft for those parts are what works good.

Then i would start by cleaning the MAF with MAF cleaner since its cheapest and the IAC can be cleaned with Brake Cleaner.

If its a vacuum leak its going to cause that problem, as ewll as a dirty fuel filter.


Also it is worth noting that many of us have the rough idle problem and you can find this issue in the top 20 threads probably with many guys who have no real issues with the car. I have seem to come to the conclusion that when these engines get miles on them they idle rough, but stalling is a problem and can be corrected, i eradicated my issue by getting new plugs + wires + cleaning all that stuff and replacing the fuel filter.

Also its a given that you need a new air filter if its dirty
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
thanks to all...I will start with the thermostat...does anyone know the torq on the bolts? and since i dont have a repair book...do I need a sealant or does it have an O-ring? I did read I need to get a "Ford" one! :)
 

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A new motorcraft thermostat should come with its own O-ring.
 

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Yes get the Motorcraft OEM temp one, don't go for a low/high temp thermostat and do a read this.

The Torq for the bolts appear to be 89 inch lb minimum up to 124 inch lb, i would try 100 even to start. These torque specs aren't specific to your year it appears so i wouldn't go over 100 unless someone knows the exacts.

How to Change the Thermostat in a Ford Taurus | eHow.com
 

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Whoa right thar, pardner.

Inch pounds is what you're trying to say?

Bill
 

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Yes get the Motorcraft OEM temp one, don't go for a low/high temp thermostat and do a read this.

The Torq for the bolts appear to be 89 ft lb minimum up to 124 ft lb, i would try 100 even to start. These torque specs aren't specific to your year it appears so i wouldn't go over 100 unless someone knows the exacts.

How to Change the Thermostat in a Ford Taurus | eHow.com

^^^^ That web site is nearly worthless...... the instructions are so vague as to apply to virtually any car. You could replace "Ford Taurus" with Chevy Malibu, Toyota Corolla, or Honda Accord and they would be basically correct. They DONT mention you need to remove the splash shield if you want to access the draincock (easy to do, but if a novice reads these instructions, the will never find the draincock), they dont mention to be sure to install the tstat with the jiggle valve pointing up, and they tell you to remove the rad hose from the tstat housing before removing the housing, which is completely unnecessary on the Vulcan. (Just pull the housing with the hose still attached). They also dont mention the lower hose "junction" that can be loosened / opened to coolant drain without removing the splash shield.
 
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