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Discussion Starter #1
I'm having a small problem with my car. It's not a huge deal as long as it isn't hurting something, but after the engine is good and hot, like after driving on the highway for a while, when I pull off and slow down, areound 35-40 MPH I have an engine "studder". I don't know what exactly to call it. The revs bounce at around 1200 RPM by about 200-300 RPM for a while either until it stablizes or I drop out of that RPM range. I had Alberto trying to track down the problem cause we thought it was tuning related, but I ran the stock program and was able to replicate the problem. Does anyone have some specualtion? I think one of the following:

dirty injectors
fouled plugs
malfunctioning MAF or IAT sensors

Alberto had suggested that since I had removed the intake silencer all the way to the air box and was pulling in engine air, maybe the engine air was too hot to be in range of the stock MAF. To compenstate for this, I've added a hose from the fender well to the air box, but it hasn't helped. I also threw a bottle of STP injector cleaner in the gas tank.

Anyone have any ideas? I guess I could take it to ford under warrenty, but then I have to listen to them complain about my aftermarket stuff and probably will end up having to *show* them the problem, since the ford techs won't drive it long enough / hard enough to make it happen.

-Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Um... Bump?

:bump:

-Dan
 

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my car does this with the cone filter on the end of the maf. When you get below 45mph or so the fan will turn on (if the engine is warm enough, or if the A/C is on).. The fan causes different turbulance in the engine compartment than normal driving, thus faking out the MAF.. Speeds above 45mph the fan shuts off..

TAke your cone filter off and blow air around the maf and the engine will most likely run very rough or stall..

Jeramie
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Ah! That starts to make sence. I son'd have a cone filter though, I have just removed the intake silencer, so the airbox was pulling from the engine bay. Now, I've added a pile from the air box to the fender well. I might try adjusting the pipe and sealing the unit better. I might also replace the air filter to see if it is related. I do notice it does it more when the A/C is running.

-Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Well, I don't think that is the problem now. I've successfully installed a pipe from the air box to the fender well and clamped it on (not very easy with that angle!) Although I've increase power a bit, it still gets the engine rev problem. I might have to take this to ford and have them check it out. Hopefully it's a dying sensor or something that I can have fixed under warrenty.

-Dan
 

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Mine's done that for several years, and I haven't found the problem. It did it with the stock air box and with "filter on a stick." It did it with the original MAF and several other ones. I cleaned the IAC and then replaced it. There are never PCM codes.

Please let me know if you find the answer. I will do the same :D
 

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Originally posted by Mikeys_Taurus@Jul 25 2004, 10:42 AM
This sounds like a torque converter lock-up issue, not a tuning issue.
In my case, I've also replaced the torque convertor (and transmission) and that wasn't it either, but I agree that is something to check. I had hopes that when the transmission died and I replaced it that it would finally also fix my stumbling at hot idle, but alas, no.
 

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Originally posted by d_sellers1@Jul 25 2004, 02:12 PM
Where is this IAC located, and how do I take it off and clean it?  My 2000 SE has a rough idlea in Park and Neutral.  Put the car in gear and it idles a little higher and smoother.  Remember reading in the past that I should probably clean the IAC.
You could take the IAC electrical connector off and clean it. The IAC is located at the top of the TB, a cylinder shaped device. You can take the IAC itself off and clean it with some non-residue electrical cleaner or non-chlorinated brake cleaner. The MAF may be dirty too, this can be cleaned with the same cleaner.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It does it on the stock program too. Not quite as much, but it is still there. I think the entire problem may have shifted up the RPM scale by 100 RPM once I set up the CAI rather then the HAI, but not entirely sure.

-Dan
 
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Originally posted by Mikeys_Taurus@Jul 25 2004, 11:42 AM
This sounds like a torque converter lock-up issue, not a tuning issue.
:withstupid:

Especially since there's no codes. A sensor out of range will throw a code. I don't think your intake setup was changed enough to affect anything, and even if it was, it would have done it all along.

I would take out the chip, and take it to the dealer to have them check it.
 

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Originally posted by dant98@Jul 25 2004, 09:54 PM
It does it on the stock program too. Not quite as much, but it is still there.
-Dan
When you say stock program do you mean without the chip?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I'm not running a chip, folks. I have a tuner. This means I flash my PCM with different programs. I could never get a chip working on my car thanks to ford and thier disabled service port's. I have four programs... a perforamcne prog, an econ for 93 oct., an econ for 87, and the stock program that was the original ford code. There is no chip to remove.

-Dan
 

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Whenever my Mustang has a revving idle I just clean the MAF and reset the computer and it runs perfect after that. Just a thought.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I tried cleaning the MAF already. Didn't seem to help. I used "3M Electronic Equipment Cleaner". It was the closest thing I could find to electronics cleaner. And sence the Gen 4 has an integrated IAT and MAF sensor assembly, I've cleaned both. The MAF is one of the first things I thought of though. What do you use on yours?

-Dan
 

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Its like QD Electronic cleaner, got it from Radio Scrap. Did you reset the computer by unplugging the battery?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Jen Chaffie wrote "tomorrow" in her e-mail yesterday... Did she change it?
 
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