Well in my previous post I said i found my timing chain to be the culprit. Well I thought it fixed all my problems well i still got one remaining problem. Well when it is cold out and the engine is cold it starts fine then runs to the second mark on the temp gauge then all of a sudden it will stall out and then start right up. this will continue to happen till it get a little warmer. I usually get it warmer by pressing the gas. I never came upon anything like this before. I REALLY READY TO START A FIRE
I Thought I Was Done
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Did you flush out your cooling system, and did you smash out your innards out of the cat?
Did the coolent when i did the timing chain but no i got a noraml cat i think it might be it too but how do i rip out the innnards of this cat it looks like its impossable do i have to take the cat out of the car too do it?
BTW if it were the cat why would it only act up when it is cold? Is it clogged by sediments cause i can hit it and i dont hear any rattles or anything.
Well, catalytic reactions do work differently at different temperatures. But this usually means less reaction (i.e. more emissions) at low temperatures, so I'm not sure what this would mean for your situation, but temperature definately does effect the catalytic converter's ability. (They're even talking about different types of catalytic converters, now that heat up much faster...)
IAC?
All sensors and fuel injectors are brand new from ford. All new ign parts Inc. Distribitor. New timing chain. compression is 165 to 178 and fuel pressure is 40PSI. TPS Switch is @ .84 volts and 4.65 at WOT. All my filters are new also. Both the upper and lower intake is CLEAN and have new gaskets. New thermostat and waterpump.
And i forgot to mention on the way hom from work today it was missing like crazy on the freeway.
What i dont understand is why if the timings on with a new chain. Got new plugs wire cap and rotor Compression is good got good lift, cams good.
This car when not acting up RUNS PERFECT . There is no noticeable miss. (unless it is acting up)
Im ready to give to a real professional. Im good at diagnoseing newer cars but this older car thing is getting to me
What i dont understand is why if the timings on with a new chain. Got new plugs wire cap and rotor Compression is good got good lift, cams good.
This car when not acting up RUNS PERFECT . There is no noticeable miss. (unless it is acting up)
Im ready to give to a real professional. Im good at diagnoseing newer cars but this older car thing is getting to me
Just a few thoughts
Next time it really starts to miss, quickly start pulling wires one at a time from the dist. cap. Carefully with insulated wire pliers or thick dry gloves.
One wire you pull will have little to no effect on the miss and the other 5 will nearly kill the engine. Now you know which cylinder is the culprit and you can start by changing that one plug to a new one. I know you changed them but humour me. (platinum has always worked for me)
Next, pop both ends of one wire at a time and give us the ohm readings for all your wires.
Another thing to do is to disconnect the underhood light and run the engine at night in total darkness, and when it misses you may see an arcing between wires or somewhere else.
If you do narrow it down to one cylinder and the new plug checks out, the wire checks out, then it's possible you have either a failing injector or an injector with debris in the line or body that at random times moves in the fuel flow and plugs it. I have seen this with my Dad's 3.8L.
You could also check and clean your grounds, and as a last resort replace the computer's coolant sensor, not the gauge sensor, as there may be some corellation between the engine missing and the computer adjusting air/fuel for engine warmup. As a last resort, hopefully it's not the computer, but if you can swap a new one to try (friend work at an auto parts shop? ) then I would to rule it out.
Next time it really starts to miss, quickly start pulling wires one at a time from the dist. cap. Carefully with insulated wire pliers or thick dry gloves.
One wire you pull will have little to no effect on the miss and the other 5 will nearly kill the engine. Now you know which cylinder is the culprit and you can start by changing that one plug to a new one. I know you changed them but humour me. (platinum has always worked for me)
Next, pop both ends of one wire at a time and give us the ohm readings for all your wires.
Another thing to do is to disconnect the underhood light and run the engine at night in total darkness, and when it misses you may see an arcing between wires or somewhere else.
If you do narrow it down to one cylinder and the new plug checks out, the wire checks out, then it's possible you have either a failing injector or an injector with debris in the line or body that at random times moves in the fuel flow and plugs it. I have seen this with my Dad's 3.8L.
You could also check and clean your grounds, and as a last resort replace the computer's coolant sensor, not the gauge sensor, as there may be some corellation between the engine missing and the computer adjusting air/fuel for engine warmup. As a last resort, hopefully it's not the computer, but if you can swap a new one to try (friend work at an auto parts shop? ) then I would to rule it out.
Well today i had the Cat backpressure tested and it passed cat good. I also had the fuel pump tested by volume and pressure. It had 35 PSI with key on engine off and with it running was nearly the same. The Volume test had yielded that i could get 7-8 Ounces of fuel in ten secs of cranking. they had both passed. I had tested all wires under the hood and i still get nothing wrong all fuses are good no wire frayed nothing i still get stalling and it will always restart
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