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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I own a 2007 Taurus SE, 175k miles with the Vulcan V6/A4XN transmission, and earlier today it stopped shifting from 1st to 2nd, is it dead? And is there a way to fix it easily or am I just SOL?
 

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How's the atf level/condition? Check idling warm in Park. Afterwards, check with engine Off and compare the 2 levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
How's the atf level/condition? Check idling warm in Park. Afterwards, check with engine Off and compare the 2 levels.
It looks fine and normal. It appears an actual gear or something sheared off.
 

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It looks fine and normal. It appears an actual gear or something sheared off.
When my 2003 tranny went it was like zero gears - I had the fluid changed at Ford the previous day and then went to work. Everything seemed normal but when I left work that afternoon and tried to move the car there were no gears. Towed the car to Ford and they wanted 4k for a rebuilt tranny. Sent the car to local shop and replaced tranny for 2k.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
When my 2003 tranny went it was like zero gears - I had the fluid changed at Ford the previous day and then went to work. Everything seemed normal but when I left work that afternoon and tried to move the car there were no gears. Towed the car to Ford and they wanted 4k for a rebuilt tranny. Sent the car to local shop and replaced tranny for 2k.
Yeah it isn't worth it for me to fix it. I have it up on FB marketplace for parts only.
 

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Hi, I own a 2007 Taurus SE, 175k miles with the Vulcan V6/A4XN transmission, and earlier today it stopped shifting from 1st to 2nd, is it dead? And is there a way to fix it easily or am I just SOL?
i had the same problem with the transmission and after extensive research i found that the transmission has 5 selenoids (1 for each gear), after relacing them i saw the wiring harness in very bad shape and replaced it too. After that, i changed the speed sensor. Car working fine. Car has over 310000 on the speedometer.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
i had the same problem with the transmission and after extensive research i found that the transmission has 5 selenoids (1 for each gear), after relacing them i saw the wiring harness in very bad shape and replaced it too. After that, i changed the speed sensor. Car working fine. Car has over 310000 on the speedometer.
That's what I figured but it's just not worth to fix for me, I don't have that kind of time.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Update: my car has sat for a couple weeks. I moved it into my garage for a night to keep it out of the way while company was over and it leaked a lot of ATF. Subsequently took it around the block and it kept slipping in and out of first and wouldn't go above 20mph.
 

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Possible the fluid leak resulted in insufficient fluid in the pan? If the pump sucks air, tranny will not operate correctly.

Where is the leak coming from?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Possible the fluid leak resulted in insufficient fluid in the pan? If the pump sucks air, tranny will not operate correctly.

Where is the leak coming from?
I had topped it off the day before it blew. It wasn't leaking then. I know it did have an issue where the transmission dipstick would just not stay in place and it probably did shoot fluid out through there. I assume the current leak is coming from somewhere in the actual transmission or the oil pan. Either way, it's not worth spending the money to fix, it's a base model '07 that was beat and neglected its whole life and has a little over 175k on it. Plus, it needs more repairs than I have time for, including exhaust repair and probably new rear struts.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
If losing atf through the dipstick, probably a plugged/collapsed vent.
It literally throws the dipstick out a couple inches and it already never sealed right. I also should mention that over the course of the four months I owned it, it constantly slipped gears and when shifting from 1st to 2nd it jolted the car.
 

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As noted above, clogged vent. 4 minute repair if you work slow.
 

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How would I go about doing that?
How would I go about doing that?
Pic of where the vent is, shown with it removed. Clean the rubber cap, push it on just far enough to go over the bulge and still be wobbly loose. Push it on too far and it will stick and push fluid out. Always remove it to add fluid. You can run without a cap but best to have it. My next to last use buy did not have one on it. I got one from the JY and put it on. Properly. LOOSE.

-chart-
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Pic of where the vent is, shown with it removed. Clean the rubber cap, push it on just far enough to go over the bulge and still be wobbly loose. Push it on too far and it will stick and push fluid out. Always remove it to add fluid. You can run without a cap but best to have it. My next to last use buy did not have one on it. I got one from the JY and put it on. Properly. LOOSE.

-chart-
Thank you! I'll definitely try do this this weekend if I have time.
 

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^+1. Look under brake master cylinder on top of transmission. If there's a cap on the vent, remove it. Some caps are rubber, some are metal. May insert a piece of baling wire or straightened paperclip to clean out the vent. Clean and replace the cap installing it only 1 "click" as Chart mentioned. If you push the cap all the way down flush, you'll smother/plug the vent rendering it useless. Afterwards, with car idling in Park and warmed up, check the atf level while running. If low, add atf in 1/2-1 pint increments to avoid overfilling 'til in the safe crosshatch area on the dipstick.
 
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