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I . GOOFED . BADLY .
2015 Taurus Limited, 3.5L. Doing the 100,000mi radiator flush (no chemicals and in the dark of night) and all online advice said the drain was on the driver’s side. All I can find is a hex plug (never seen one like that). So I turn it until I hear a hiss and small drip. Odd… I make sure I had the cap off the fill tank, then come back and give it a quick spin. A gush of vapor and fluid hits my arm and I REACT as if badly burned. Fumble…. and …throw…the wrench… then realized its actually COLD COLD COLD!!! 1 second later I realize my mistake and eventually fumble the wrench back in and tighten up the drain plug ….. for the condenser….SMH. I head gas balancing out in the system after I tightened the plug. Finished the flush but now I got a bigger problem.

I lost quite a bit of gas and the catch pan had an ounce or two of green fluid (I’m guessing the oil). I know I’m banned from AC for a while so Ill either run full blast heat (HI) or turn the climate control off until I can get this fixed. I don’t know how much refrigerant I lost and how much was actually compressor oil. I have done my own AC work on cheap vehicles with success (AC PRO + Oil), but this is my “nicest” car ever so I don’t want to damage or goof up anything else. Obviously no air got in the system, but I’m definitely low on something. I have not turned the AC on to see if it’s cold or not.

1 Is it safe to drive as long as I don’t use the AC?
  • 2 Is it safe to use the heat on HI?
  • 3 Would much lubricant be in the condenser or was that green fluid just liquid state R134a that had not evaporated yet? 40degress F ambient temperature. Car was pointing steeply downhill and had been off from AC use for about 45 minutes.
  • 4 I understand the AC cycle, am an engineer, but also understand I don’t have the tools to measure what I actually have left vs what I need (1.43lb R134a + 5.2oz oil per manual ). If the green fluid was just liquid state R-134a I should be able to just use a can of AC PRO. It was 40-45F outside.
  • 5 Should I just eat the cost and take it to the dealership or a local shop? I’m guessing they would drain it and start over so they know what is in it.
 

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The "green liquid" is PAG oil, and should be carefully measured, as it must be replaced in the system. Some of it was lost due to aerosol dispersion, you'll have to guess how much. My advice is take it to an A/C PRO, don't just buy a can of it (that stuff has sealer in it that WILL damage your system). I don't know where you live, but there are shops that specialize in these types of repairs. Where I work, there are engineers and technicians: engineers should not work on cars.
 

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Hey, I think anyone who has done diy repairs and maintenance has made mistakes we wish we could take back. The proper way to remedy this would be a total evacuation of refrigerant, then pull a vacuum, addition of proper pag oil, don't know how to determine amount, then recharge with the proper refrigerant by weight, Good news is there should be no contamination by air or moisture. I am not sure about your model year but the AC compressor runs in some of the other modes than AC.

Scott
 

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Hi im new here but had too chime in ..defrost will probably activate it if there's enough in the system too. And some cars it cycles all the time .. even though its a little costly i agree with the person above unless your hvac experienced take too a ac shop too check that oil as if you put too much it coats the inner walls of condenser and evap coils its a bad thing too little compressor runs hot contaminates freon compressor locks up .. then its major clean up ...pull your compressor fuse .. just in case...
 

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You should take it to a pro. If you were familiar with auto ACs you can buy a oil injector that connects to the charging port and also to a refrigerant manifold. The cheap ones only inject an ounce at a time. Sadly the pro will charge you a couple of hundred dollars to evacuate the system and then add oil you lost and fill the system with refrigerant. You should collect and measure the oil you lost because that is the only way for them to add the proper amount back in.. .
 

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Discussion Starter #7
OP here
So I tried 2 times to get my car looked at but everything is so busy the best they could offer was to leave it and they might get to it in a few hours…..I’m too busy to give up my car and bum rides that much. I often have to drive to another plant across town with no warning.
So the ambient temp was 75F and I knew that was a sweet spot. So I decided to do it myself for the convenience. YES, I wanted to go to a pro as recommended but …LIFE.
Ambient 76F. Vent temp on MAX AC is 60F. AC fan on low is 44F. Low side read 32psi with “AC PRO” nozzle – hey better than nothing. I don’t have gauges for High side L. Really not bad. Online chart says it should be 40-45psi low side.
Added a 3oz bottle of PAG46 (actually 1oz 46, 1 oz mystery crap, 1 oz R134a). Since I soaked up the spilled oil with a few paper towels I figure this is plenty of oil. I estimate 1 oz after refilling the pan from a kitchen measuring cup of water to the same level as the oil lost.
Then added part of a 12oz can of R134a but never could get the pressure to over 40psi. Also not sure how much went in as I later dumped the rest of that can in a Buick.
Final result:
Ambient 76F. Vent temp on MAX AC is 56F. AC fan on low is 41F. Low side read 39-40psi. 4F drop in MAC AC vent temp and 3F drop in AC temp on low fan. Time will tell if I estimated the amount of oil properly.
 

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You should be alright, The only issue I see is the mystery crap may be a sealer which adds a probability of problems but it should be low.
 

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Good job, only I would do the radiator flush every year, just cost me 1500 for a new water pump at 115K I think...I will do mine yearly from now on due to the water pump problems...if you don't catch it like I did the pump failure leads to catastrophic engine failure.
 

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^^^^ +1

High pressure is just as important as low side pressure for determining the health of the AC system.

I wouldnt trust the cheap crap gauge on the AC Pro can.
 

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^^^^ +1

High pressure is just as important as low side pressure for determining the health of the AC system.

I wouldnt trust the cheap crap gauge on the AC Pro can.
I don't have a set of guages but I would also love to know the high side pressure.
AC was fine beforehand though the car had AC work done when brand new.
 

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I . GOOFED . BADLY .
2015 Taurus Limited, 3.5L. Doing the 100,000mi radiator flush (no chemicals and in the dark of night) and all online advice said the drain was on the driver’s side. All I can find is a hex plug (never seen one like that). So I turn it until I hear a hiss and small drip. Odd… I make sure I had the cap off the fill tank, then come back and give it a quick spin. A gush of vapor and fluid hits my arm and I REACT as if badly burned. Fumble…. and …throw…the wrench… then realized its actually COLD COLD COLD!!! 1 second later I realize my mistake and eventually fumble the wrench back in and tighten up the drain plug ….. for the condenser….SMH. I head gas balancing out in the system after I tightened the plug. Finished the flush but now I got a bigger problem.

I lost quite a bit of gas and the catch pan had an ounce or two of green fluid (I’m guessing the oil). I know I’m banned from AC for a while so Ill either run full blast heat (HI) or turn the climate control off until I can get this fixed. I don’t know how much refrigerant I lost and how much was actually compressor oil. I have done my own AC work on cheap vehicles with success (AC PRO + Oil), but this is my “nicest” car ever so I don’t want to damage or goof up anything else. Obviously no air got in the system, but I’m definitely low on something. I have not turned the AC on to see if it’s cold or not.

1 Is it safe to drive as long as I don’t use the AC?
  • 2 Is it safe to use the heat on HI?
  • 3 Would much lubricant be in the condenser or was that green fluid just liquid state R134a that had not evaporated yet? 40degress F ambient temperature. Car was pointing steeply downhill and had been off from AC use for about 45 minutes.
  • 4 I understand the AC cycle, am an engineer, but also understand I don’t have the tools to measure what I actually have left vs what I need (1.43lb R134a + 5.2oz oil per manual ). If the green fluid was just liquid state R-134a I should be able to just use a can of AC PRO. It was 40-45F outside.
  • 5 Should I just eat the cost and take it to the dealership or a local shop? I’m guessing they would drain it and start over so they know what is in it.
I would have all the R134a removed & replaced with computer duster. It cleans your computer & other electronics, idiots huff the stuff to become more brain dead, & it's as cold as the old refrigerant R12. If ordered online you can get it with the same screw top that you get with the R134a that you get from an auto parts store to replace lost refrigerant due to events like yours. you will have colder A/C & people spray the stuff in open air all the time to clean their electronics. A professional will not put this in your vehicle, so I would go to a place that is able to remove your refrigerant & ask them to put the proper amount of A/C compressor oil in your system but not to replace any of the R134a, then look up how to do it yourself on Youtube, but instead of using R134a, use computer duster instead to have the coldest A/C posible. Oh, this will not harm your car or A/C system, it will give you colder A/C!
 

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I would have all the R134a removed & replaced with computer duster. It cleans your computer & other electronics, idiots huff the stuff to become more brain dead, & it's as cold as the old refrigerant R12. If ordered online you can get it with the same screw top that you get with the R134a that you get from an auto parts store to replace lost refrigerant due to events like yours. you will have colder A/C & people spray the stuff in open air all the time to clean their electronics. A professional will not put this in your vehicle, so I would go to a place that is able to remove your refrigerant & ask them to put the proper amount of A/C compressor oil in your system but not to replace any of the R134a, then look up how to do it yourself on Youtube, but instead of using R134a, use computer duster instead to have the coldest A/C posible. Oh, this will not harm your car or A/C system, it will give you colder A/C!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I would have all the R134a removed & replaced with computer duster. It cleans your computer & other electronics, idiots huff the stuff to become more brain dead, & it's as cold as the old refrigerant R12. If ordered online you can get it with the same screw top that you get with the R134a that you get from an auto parts store to replace lost refrigerant due to events like yours. you will have colder A/C & people spray the stuff in open air all the time to clean their electronics. A professional will not put this in your vehicle, so I would go to a place that is able to remove your refrigerant & ask them to put the proper amount of A/C compressor oil in your system but not to replace any of the R134a, then look up how to do it yourself on Youtube, but instead of using R134a, use computer duster instead to have the coldest A/C posible. Oh, this will not harm your car or A/C system, it will give you colder A/C!
You must be talking about the R1234 being used in new cars. It's way too expensive and the hot is very hot and cold side very cold (why you recommend it) to the point they put a heat exchanger between the two lines.
Not going to happen just for the sake of a few degrees colder air.
 

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I would have all the R134a removed & replaced with computer duster. It cleans your computer & other electronics, idiots huff the stuff to become more brain dead, & it's as cold as the old refrigerant R12. If ordered online you can get it with the same screw top that you get with the R134a that you get from an auto parts store to replace lost refrigerant due to events like yours. you will have colder A/C & people spray the stuff in open air all the time to clean their electronics. A professional will not put this in your vehicle, so I would go to a place that is able to remove your refrigerant & ask them to put the proper amount of A/C compressor oil in your system but not to replace any of the R134a, then look up how to do it yourself on Youtube, but instead of using R134a, use computer duster instead to have the coldest A/C posible. Oh, this will not harm your car or A/C system, it will give you colder A/C!
Please don't encourage anyone to put this stuff in their system, there's nothing wrong with R134A and the system is designed especially for this refrigerant.
 

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Right.... pressures are going to be way different .. flash off is going to higher and isnt that butane derived??? So explosive??? And with hotter discharge means higher pressure...same with new 1234a = higher pressure more strain on system...thats what made r12 so nice and being. Single blend .........same with r22 ...
 
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