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There may also be a vacuum leak causing the stall. Will it keep running if you rev it a bit? If you have a cheap scan tool, we could get fuel trim readings to help narrow it down quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
You could always try a smoke test with a cigar or cigarette if u wanna check for vac leaks
So I ended up purchasing the Bluedriver scanner tool. And got a reading of 43psi for fuel pressure. I am now going to be in the process of taking out the injectors to make sure all are working properly. I have a smoker coming in this coming week to check for any vacuum leaks, but I pulled the manifold off and everything that I can see looks to be good.

When I hit the gas, it revs but it will eventually die out still.
 

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Discussion Starter #25
Another update. I took off injectors, cleaned them, tested them. All functioning properly. I'm still at a standstill with this car. I also can not get at the FPDM. Is there an easy way to look/test that?
 

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The fuel pump seems to be working because you are getting proper pressure. The vehicle sounds horrible in the video, and it's loud as though there may be an exhaust leak. I'd compression test it to avoid wasting time and money. Unless you can find out that knocking is coming from elsewhere...
 

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Have you looked the exhaust manifold over real close for cracks or being loose? It is also possible the doughnut is missing.
 

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Medium to large exhaust leak can screw up the readings from the O2 sensors causing the PCM to significantly under fuel or over the engine.

How did you clean the injectors? Only way that really works is to have them professionally cleaned. Did you replace the O rings and pintle caps? Did you lube the O rings when replacing the injectors? If they arent lubed high probability of ripping / damaging the O rings.

Modern injectors are a VERY rare fail assuming the gas you buy has the correct mix of cleaning agents (i.e., Tier 1 fuels).
 
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Agree on reliability of fuel injectors. I have never ever since the beginning of injectors had a problem with one but have thought there maybe. Had a hesitation on a Buick Regal that GM thought it was the injectors and replaced three of them under emission warranty and handed car back only to hesitate on way out of the dealer. Turned out that I solved the issue myself with a change of O2 sensor.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Update; Did the compression test. All comes back normal just under 180. While pulling out all of the spark plugs again, looks like there is oil in the wells. Could all of this is being caused by a bad head gasket and valve gasket??
 

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If compression is good then your head gasket is most likely good. Valve cover gasket wouldn't have anything to do with your issue as long as you aren't seeing misfires.
 

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How about fully inspecting the EGR and lines for damage/leaks? It sounded quite loud in the clip, and that rattling is coming from somewhere. Though this still wouldn't explain it stalling.

Did you ever look over the exhaust manifold really good? Underside and all? Get in there with a mirror if you need to.
 

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After mis-spending my early youth as a motorcycle mechanic I paid my way through college working as a marine engine mechanic on pleasure boats — outboards, small diesels and a few gas engines. One of the unique problems with boat engines which is seldom found on other ICE engines is partially plugged exhausts. This is due to the sometimes convoluted and poorly made exhaust systems. Over time, carbon buildup within the exhaust will reach the point where the engine can barely breathe — the engine will still run but will not take throttle or carry any kind of load and will stumble badly. Anyway, you might want to hold you hand over your car's exhaust and see how the pressure feels at various rpm and compare that with a similar vehicle. If it feels (or sounds) weaker than it should, see if it's possible to disconnect your exhaust somewhere to let the engine breathe better and see if it makes a difference. This can be a difficult problem to diagnose.
Fortunately (or unfortunately) modern cars sometimes plug their catalytic converters, so modern mechanics are aware of this issue.
And remember the No. 1 rule of troubleshooting: The more mysterious the problem, the simpler the solution.
 

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Ok, So I need some serious help. I recently bought a 03 Ford Taurus 3.0 Duratec engine with 53k miles on it from one of my friends. They claim the car just completely died while driving one day. They replaced the fuel pump, a couple of the vacuum hoses, new spark plugs and wires. Since I have it, the only code that is showing is a P1151 error code. So I first started out by cleaning the MAF, and IAC. Neither did anything. I then replaced the Fuel Pressure Sensor, no change. Cleaned the EGR Valve, and still no change. Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor, no change. I currently have a crankshaft position sensor on order, but doubtful it is going to work since of how horrible it is running. I am wondering if this happened to anyone else, or if anyone knows of a fix that I am missing. I uploaded a video on my Youtube Channel to show you all how it is running.
Simple. Check the PCV tube ELBOW which is clamped to the bottom of the upper intake. Ford had problems with it collapsing, choking off vacuum. So much, that Ford changed it to a harder, '"ribbed" rubber that will not collapse. Motorcraft ones come as ELBOW with tube with clamp- no pcv. Gates copied style, but make sure ELBOW is finned/heavy duty, NOT PLAIN rubber. Also, the small vacuum lines at firewall sometimes need NEW rubber connections.
 

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The OE is a sure fire fail. Just took this out of my '03 Taurus. New improved design with new plastic pipe and coupling rubber sleeve from RA was $13.50 while back. You really need that coupling as the original will be hard and pain to deal with.
-chart-
 

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