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Ok, So I need some serious help. I recently bought a 03 Ford Taurus 3.0 Duratec engine with 53k miles on it from one of my friends. They claim the car just completely died while driving one day. They replaced the fuel pump, a couple of the vacuum hoses, new spark plugs and wires. Since I have it, the only code that is showing is a P1151 error code. So I first started out by cleaning the MAF, and IAC. Neither did anything. I then replaced the Fuel Pressure Sensor, no change. Cleaned the EGR Valve, and still no change. Replaced the Camshaft Position Sensor, no change. I currently have a crankshaft position sensor on order, but doubtful it is going to work since of how horrible it is running. I am wondering if this happened to anyone else, or if anyone knows of a fix that I am missing. I uploaded a video on my Youtube Channel to show you all how it is running.
 

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Stop throwing parts at the car and do some troubleshooting!!

If crank sensor is good, scan tool will show RPM during cranking.

Can sensor failure on a Tec is extremely rare, but even if it fails car will still start and run fine after a few tries cranking it up as on each crank PCM will try each of the 2 possible crank / cam phasing conditions.

What fuel pressure does the scan tool show during crank? Should show 40 to 50 PSI. Do you hear the pump run for a second or 2 when key is turned to RUN? If zero pressure no pump running when key turned to RUN either new pump is bad (not uncommon for cheapo no name parts to be bad out of the box these days) or a failed FPDM, which is a relatively common issue that doesnt always set a code. FPDM is a common enough fail that I carry a known good used spare in the trunk.
 
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Bad injector? If one of the plugs is all wet, the injector for that cyl. may be stuck open. Black smoke from the exhaust would be one sign of this possibility. And yeah, confirm that there's no diesel in the fuel.
Pour a very small amount of gas into intake and start the car. If it fires right up and seems to run smoothly for a few seconds, you've got a fuel supply problem.
"They replaced the fuel pump." This means nothing until you confirm that it's functioning properly. Trust no one!
"They replaced the coil wires." Means nothing. Did they connect the leads to the proper plugs? Are the leads properly connected? Better check it.
 

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More than one mechanic has cross wired plugs when changing out a coil. I know I have and it runs like crap, almost like a diesel.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Stop throwing parts at the car and do some troubleshooting!!

If crank sensor is good, scan tool will show RPM during cranking.

Can sensor failure on a Tec is extremely rare, but even if it fails car will still start and run fine after a few tries cranking it up as on each crank PCM will try each of the 2 possible crank / cam phasing conditions.

What fuel pressure does the scan tool show during crank? Should show 40 to 50 PSI. Do you hear the pump run for a second or 2 when key is turned to RUN? If zero pressure no pump running when key turned to RUN either new pump is bad (not uncommon for cheapo no name parts to be bad out of the box these days) or a failed FPDM, which is a relatively common issue that doesnt always set a code. FPDM is a common enough fail that I carry a known good used spare in the trunk.
I am doing my best trouble shooting. As of right now, I have a cheap junky scan tool, so I am not able to read the RPM during cranking, when inside the car, the RPMs do move when I try and crank, not sure if that helps at all. I do hear the pump turn on after I turn the key. My next question to you is what is a FPDM?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Bad injector? If one of the plugs is all wet, the injector for that cyl. may be stuck open. Black smoke from the exhaust would be one sign of this possibility. And yeah, confirm that there's no diesel in the fuel.
Pour a very small amount of gas into intake and start the car. If it fires right up and seems to run smoothly for a few seconds, you've got a fuel supply problem.
"They replaced the fuel pump." This means nothing until you confirm that it's functioning properly. Trust no one!
"They replaced the coil wires." Means nothing. Did they connect the leads to the proper plugs? Are the leads properly connected? Better check it.
That was my next step was possibly a bad or a clogged injector. My only issue is should it be running as poorly as it is with it just being a bad injector?
Here is a video
 

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FPDM= fuel pump driver module located back of rear pass. seat back. If tach is slightly pulsing while cranking, ckp is probably ok.
 

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Head to the local JY and pick up a spare FPDM or to and see if it cures the problem. You can easily pull one in 10 minutes. FPDM failure usually doesnt set a code or codes directly related to the FPDM, but will set fuel pressure related codes (P0191, 193, etc)
 

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Head to the local JY and pick up a spare FPDM or to and see if it cures the problem. You can easily pull one in 10 minutes. FPDM failure usually doesnt set a code or codes directly related to the FPDM, but will set fuel pressure related codes (P0191, 193, etc)
Let me ask you a question, would It still start rough then eventually stall out like it is doing in the video?
 

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What the heck is that noise? You haven't been able to keep it running since you've had it? What does the coolant look like? I wonder if it overheated and he blew the head.

I'd be compression testing that unless I can pinpoint that noise to something... Was something rattling loose?
 

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Correct, I haven't been able to keep it running since I've had it. The coolant is full and looks clean. There is no water in the oil, or is there white smoke coming out of the exhaust when it is started.
 

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Update. I checked the PSI of the fuel system, and it is at 43 psi. Which looks to be normal to me. Next step is pulling the injectors, but it is extremely difficult to remove. Is it going to be ok if I force it?
 

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I would compression test before I'd pull injectors in this situation. Do you have a live data scan tool? If not, you're better off getting a cheap one of those before you spend a bunch of time and money on parts.
 

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There's a great video on YT about checking FI injectors, one of the guys best tricks is to simply put a mechanic's stethoscope (or screwdriver to your ear) touch it to each injector and listen to the injector cycling - it's quite audible. If all four sound the same, they're prolly all working okay. In one's not...."There's your problem lady."
 

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There's a great video on YT about checking FI injectors, one of the guys best tricks is to simply put a mechanic's stethoscope (or screwdriver to your ear) touch it to each injector and listen to the injector cycling - it's quite audible. If all four sound the same, they're prolly all working okay. In one's not...."There's your problem lady."
I was gonna mention using a stethoscope as well to try pinpointing where that noise is coming from. Too hard to guess from the clip.
 
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