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Discussion Starter #1
If you are able to help me I WILL pay You, I need this vehicle to go.

Hello I can not figure out what happened to my Taurus. The situation is My girlfriend was driving down the freeway going about 75mph, when her Upper radiator Hose busted. On a 3.0L V6 GL, Coolant went everywhere from her dist cap wires, air filter, everywhere on the driver side of engine. I taped up the hose added coolant but not full, on the road. Would not start. It would crank and try to start but wouldn't. I Pulled it off the free way. Oh yeah I think my girlfriend flooded it. Let it sit over night. still no start. Towed it to a garage where i replaced the plugs, wires, Dist cap and rotor. The dist cap i bought had the vent on the wrong side i don't think that would have anything thing to do with it????. Unless the rotor is not hitting the diodes not causing spark what do you think????

Still will not start. When pulling the old plugs found all plugs fouled and full of fuel and oil. Try to arch the new spark plugs there was no spark. Does anyone have any ideas what i could be doing wrong. People have said in that the fuel filter or pump could be bad, but would that be a coincidence that that would happen?

OK I have replaced the plugs, wires, Cap and rotor, and the ignition coil and my ecm under the distributor passed the test. I got the engine to start for a little bit but it fried the alternator. I have replace the alternator and the battery. But why wont the engine stay running. I am going to try the fuel pump cut off switch in the trunk, but if that doesn't work what could it be.

Well the emergency shut off button is pushed in so that can't be it. Oh yeah when i tried to light the old plugs they did not burn nor did they evaporate. I know that is is a little fuel and a little oil. Could the timing be off. When it runs for the short amount of time it sounds like the timing is off and i hear air blowing out. I can't figure it out. Can someone help?

I have More when the coolant hose burst. Is there a sensor or something that would cause the engine not to start due the low coolant.??? I do have very low coolant would that have anything to with not starting. I have done everything i can think of. Can someone out there help me.

These are some responses i have had in a different forum:

try the fuel cut-off switch in the trunk that shuts off the fuel to the engine during a jolt to the car,possibly during tow. Its a little box,usually on the left side there is a button that will pop out and needs to be pushed back in to bring fuel back to the engine

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could be your multi function relay, aka the black box on radiator support,try to check toward firewall for wiring harness if it doesn't start but turns over it is the really box or that plug on toward the firewall on drivers side
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If the fuel pump or fuel filter were bad, then the cylinders would not have been full/fouled with gas.

You were not pumping the gas when you were trying to start the car, were you? If you were, DON'T DO THAT.

You may have damaged the engine when the radiator hose burst. You need to make sure whether the liquid in the cylinders is fuel or coolant (bad head gasket.

First, carefully disconnect the electrical connectors from the fuel injectors, and dry out both the injector end and the electrical connectors on the wires.

Then, remove all of the spark plugs. Clean and dry all of them, and spinning the engine with the spark plugs out, for about 30 or 45 seconds to blow all of the liquid out.

Now put the spark plugs back in, try to start the engine. You should not need to pump the gas pedal. If the car starts, the problem was probably shorted fuel injectors due to moisture. If the car does not start, pull a spark plug and look for liquid shorting the center electrode to the side electrode. If you see this, that is why the car will not start. Light a match and see if the liquid burns or evaporates. If it burns, then you have a fuel injection system problem. If the liquid biols and evaporates, then the engine has one or more blown head gaskets, and you need to repair it, or replace it.

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So if you have more input i would greatly appreceate it

Thank you
Scott & Shannon
 

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why dont you take it to an auto shop and have them just look at it and tell you what is wrong, then you can fix it yourself. the shop in my area charges about 40 bucks to look at a car, maybe that will be your best route. just call around and get prices.
 

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did you read the codes? did you check the maf and the iac? You never said what year the car was. I am not aware of a low coolent sensor... but thats me i might be wrong. Read the codes see what it says.
 

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What year taurus, and is it the 12V 3.0(vulcan) or the 24V 3.0(duratec)?

On some tauruses there is a low coolant sensor, but it wouldn't inhibit the car from running, it just turns on an annoying light in the guage cluster.

Have you checked all the fuses?

If you're willing to pay money, why not just take it to a mechanic? The maintenance forums is generally reserved for those of us that are too cheap to pay for auto service.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok I refuse to have it towed to a shop then diaged then towed back to my place, Unfurtunatly i do not know about the MAF or The IAC. So inlighten me on what they are. Also It is 1995 and I dont know how to retreve the codes for mthe engine or car. If you know how let me know. I am seriuos on if you find the problem for me i will pay money. I need the help this is my wifes veh and she needs to transportation she is driving me nuts. Please help me
 

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You need to go buy a Haynes or Chiltons manual for your car. I know the Haynes has a bunch of codes listed but you need the manual since you own a car

You then need to purchase a very cheap analog volt meter.(one with a needle not digital)

The manual will show you where to hook up the meter and what points to jumper across.

You then follow the manual instructions and count the sweeps of the needle.

It will sweep several times and then stop that is the digit for your first number

It will start sweeping again and then stop. that is your second number

then again and that is your third number.

After you get the code look up the problem and come back here for a fix

I don't know your mechanical abilitiy but this isn't that hard
 

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Just a quick question: How far did she drive the car once the coolant hose ruptured? Maybe I'm way off base here, but if the car was driven after the hose busted and the engine overheated, you will have some serious mechanical problems. I'm no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination, but I thought I'd ask about this. It wasn't clear if you were in the car with your girlfriend (wife?) when it happened, or if you came to her assistance on the side of the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Would a chiltons manual have where to plug in at? and Would Chilton have the codes I dont have the hanes book?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
No she was driving alone, and Once it blew she pulled over right away,when coolant started to steam everywhere.
 

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Step 1 : Turn the ignition to "on" and listen carefully for the fuel pump. You should hear a sound almost like a power window motor (except very faint, since it's inside the gas tank.) The fuel pump turns on as soon as you turn the key to "on" to raise the fuel pressure. It will shut off after about 2 seconds, so you may want to try going between "off" and "on" a few times. If you don't hear that sound, you may have a problem in the fuel pump or its wiring.

Step 2 : Raise the hood and locate the engine compartment fuse box. It is on the radiator support directly in front of the engine on newer models, and near the driver's side hood hinge on older models. Pop the lid, and pull the fuses one by one. Make sure they are clean and free of tarnish/corrosion, and make sure that none are blown. It is very possible that the ignition circuit was shorted when everything got wet, and the fuse was blown.

Step 3 : Report back to TCCA with your results.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Sorry forgot to mention that the fuel sytem seems to be operating in perfect condition i hear the fuel pump but i dont know about the fuel filter i am replacing that tonight. Also all fuse are clean and the fuse are not broke. But i do believe something had to short out. the is a sensor to the left of the thermostat, Dumb question what is that for?

Also what is the best way to put the coolant in with out getting any bubbles?

But i still dont know hat to do.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
One last question, what about thatrelay box on the raditor support how can i figure out if that is good or not. or damaged from coolant?
 

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FYI - If the engine is flooded, you can sometimes remove the excess gas by flooring the gas pedal and cranking it over for a while. If the pedal is floored, the PCM shuts off the fuel delivery, so you are merely pumping air through the cylinders. I usually don't like to crank for more than 10 seconds at a time, so do at least 3 or 4 10-second cranks with the pedal floored. Then let the car sit for a minute or so before trying to start it normally.

If that doesn't do it, look here. There is a link in that thread on how to check your codes, if any are available, without a code scanner.
 

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Originally posted by VWJetta3VR6@Jan 21 2004, 11:50 AM
Would a chiltons manual have where to plug in at? and Would Chilton have the codes I dont have the hanes book?
I have the Haynes. It does have how to plug it up and it does have codes.
I don't have a chiltons.
 

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Well, try the old reliable trick that I have posted about many times, Starting Fluid.

Get a can of Starting Fluid and give it a blast into the intake, replace the hose and give it a crank, if it makes ANY attempt to start, then fuel is your problem, if not, then you have another issue.
 

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You have to first determine which system is failing!

Fuel, Air, or Spark.

Air - Crack the throttle 1/4 way and try to start it. If it starts, IAC

Fuel - As above with the starting fluid. If it fires, fuel delivery problem.

Spark - You have run a test that indicates lost spark. I happen to use an inductive timing light that can be clipped to any spark plug lead or the center lead on the distrubutor cap.

If there is no spark at the center tower, the problem might be the ignition coil, the PCM, the ICM, or the fuse in the fusebox labled IGN COIL. Check that one first. Other possibilites include a wiring harness or connector failure.

Steve
 

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I had same symptoms, but different source. I sprayed the engine compartment to clean it. Drove it a few miles and went in to the store. Came out and it would crank but not start. It seemed as if the engine would start to turn over and then hit a "dead" cylinder and not fire.

Guess: something got wet that wasn't supposed to: plug, cracked plug wire, dist. cap??? (Didn't know this could happen in modern cars.)

Sat for three hours, fired up and ran, but sounded like running on only some, not all, cylinders. Died in three miles. Sat another four hours in pretty high wind. Probably dried up whatever was wet, because she cranked right up and no trouble since. The fouled plugs would support this theory, yes? Fuel but no fire . . .
 

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you tried checking the plugs for spark and said there was none, right? did you check the coil wire to see if you could draw an arc with it? I'm thinking it may have something to do with the distributor cap you replaced that was not like the original.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Yes when i replaced the distributor the black vent thingy was on the other side of the ignition coil and i did not have a 1 on on it. But i think i have come to the conclusion that my Girlfriend IS The dumbest Person in the world. She did not fill the gas tank it was sucked dry. she was meaning to get gas but forgot. yeah now i fell dumb posting this but what can you do. Well i still won't start. So if some one has any sugestions.
 
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