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Discussion Starter #1
I have posted a couple of times about my car making low monotonic sound, coming from the wheels. The noise is at peak at around 60mph and disapears when I go past 70.... I got an answer here before that told me it's the wheel bearing. Anyway, I got it checked in two places, and they say it's going to cost me a lot... (one place said $300-$400). They also said I need new hubs..

The question is, Is there something I can do? Does it really cost THAT much? What are these hubs anyways? And can I go on driving like this or am I in danger of breaking something?

--Beholder
 

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dont know about hubs. as for bearings...expect around $100 just for the bearings...then they have to be pressed, which means unless you have professional shop equipment, you're gonna pay someone.

if its a bearing, you need to be careful driving, because the wheel could lock up and do some major damage...possibly even cause an accident.

depending on where you live...$300 + isn't completely outrageous. is the price of the hubs included in that? if so, it's probably bout right.

good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Since I am unfamiliar with all of these things, can you be a little more specific? Maybe there's even a diagram somewhere...?

What are the hubs, and what are the bearing? When will they have to change the hubs and not only the bearing? Can I tell myself what's bad or not if I look at it (where do I look?)

See I am sure that like many people I have this peranpoia when it comes down to some guy that checks my car, tell me what's wrong with it and charges me $400 for it. I have no idea what he's talking about, it's all in his hands and this is terrible because:

A:) I NEEEEEEED the car... I want to know what's wrong with it and I want to know the guy's doing a good job
B:) How do I know he doesn't replace something that doesn't need replacing? Maybe he charges me for something that I have working in great shape?

I realize it's maybe not the place to teach me "everything you wanted to know about your car", it will take years... but maybe I can be pointed in some direction? And please, if you can, be as specific as you can about my problem because I want to know.

Thank you..!
 

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Went through this same thing this past April. I had about 50K miles on my 97 Sable and had to have both front hubs and bearings replaced. It cost me $411.71 total. It did take care of my noise. In my case I couldn't miss the humming at around 35mph but it was noticeable after that at highway speeds also. It was rythmic as well, kind of like the noise you hear when driving next to a semi-trailer for awhile. Here's the breakdown of the costs:

Parts $180.02
Labor $186.43
Shop Supplies $18.32
Tax $26.94

My friend was the mechanic, but not the owner of the shop. When I talked to my friend after he told me they don't have to press the bearings, but it takes some work getting the hub assembly and bearing out. I guess corrossion and things get them locked in there pretty good. I called around for a few prices and they were all in the $200 range a piece.

I had these done about 2 weeks apart from each other because I was in doubt that both bearings could be shot at only 50k miles, I'm the original owner. I had the driver side done first because it was the one moaning the most. After the first one was done I could be driving straight and hear the noise and turn the steering wheel a little to the left and it would stop and then when I straightened back out it would come back. When I turned the wheel to the right a little the noise would not go away. Anyhow it was obvious my passenger side had to be done as well.

I didn't realize they changed out the hubs until I went to rotate the tires and the lug nuts didn't spin on as easily as they used to because the studs were different. Then I looked at my receipts a little closer and realized they had. I think it's just less labor cost getting a hub with the bearing already assembled, but I could be wrong. Like I said before my buddy said it took some work getting the orignial setup off.
 

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Just to clarify, when you have this done, you'll almost always get a new hub (and a new axle nut, as well) along with it; the bearing, hub and mounting hardware are usually sold as a kit that runs about $70-100 at AutoZone/Advance/etc. You can get the bearing separately for less, about $40, but that's usually only a good idea if you have the mounting hardware handy, and if you know the hub you have is still in good shape (they tend to rust up pretty quickly once in service).

As for how all this goes together, the hub assembly is the flange with the lugs in it. This has a tube that sticks out the back, with splines (grooves) inside that mate with the end part (stub) of the driveshaft. The bearing itself is a sealed unit that looks like a giant steel ring; the bearing is presssed into the steering knuckle, and the tube part of the hub goes through the inner race. The driveshaft's stub goes through the middle of all of this, and the axle nut holds everything together; this nut is installed at a high torque (200 foot-pounds) and is usually crimped so that it will stay on without Loctite.

The actual steering knuckle, what all this presses into, is not usually a service part unless it's been damaged in a collision.

You can check the bearing by jacking up the car so that wheel is off the ground, then holding the tire at the top and bottom. Try to rock the wheel back and forth while holding it this way; it shouldn't move. If it does, your bearing is on the way out. If it's really easy to move, then the bearing has failed completely, and needs to replaced ASAP (this happened to me last year).

-lee
 

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You can buy the whole steering knuckle, loaded with hub, bearing, and ball joint, for $100/PAIR on eBay. They are genuine Ford parts.

You can check the bearing by jacking up the car so that wheel is off the ground, then holding the tire at the top and bottom. Try to rock the wheel back and forth while holding it this way; it shouldn't move. If it does, your bearing is on the way out. If it's really easy to move, then the bearing has failed completely, and needs to replaced ASAP (this happened to me last year).
You need to rock the wheel at 12 and 6 and ALSO at 9 and 3. Only if it wiggles in BOTH directions is it the wheel bearing. If it's only at 12 and 6, it's probably the ball joint and/or control arm bushings. If it's only at 9 and 3, it's probably the inner and/or outer tie rod ends.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok guys thank you for all the info, this really help. I do not want to do anything myself since I see I don't understand even the basics, and I don't want to start messing with something and cause even more harm. It will cost me $400, like the guy said... I don't have that money now, I just hope it will hold until I do, it's been this way since I bought the car I think, 3 months ago.
 

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Go to Midas to get it fixed!! I had both front wheel bearings replaced for $370. A place down the road wanted to do the job for $600. The guy who replaced my wheel bearings said that the one on the driver's side fell apart in his hand once he got it off the car. It completely rusted through.
 
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