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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I need help. I have no clue how to seal these vents. I want them sealed, so I can install things like switches, phone holders, LEDs, etc..

Here are some photos.

At first, I used cloth and fiberglass resin to seal, but the fiberglass doesn't adhere to the plastic well. Before I start experimenting and doing crazy things, I'd like some input.

I saw a forum on this site where a guy sealed the hole in his floor console shifter, to make room for gauges. I don't know how he did it.

This whole dash situation is a little different because I don't have room behind the "holes" to do whatever I want. Well, not much room, really.

 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Here are photos of the "console mod." He changed the exterior, which I'm not able to do. I don't know how he filled the hole.

 

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That was me. B)

That was done with fiberglass. The problem you have with the dash is that it is covered with a vinyl and the fiberglass will pull away from that. If you are going to re-cover the dash, then you wouldnt have a problem. What you may have to do is make a plug and hold it in place somehow from behind. With the center console, the fiberglass & resin hold onto the plastic of the shifter bezel.

Just thinking, one thing you could do is make a plate to cover the opening and have it held on from behind. A little bit of fab work, but it is possible.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I used fiberglass and bondo for my custom dash. I also made a fiberglass/mdf box for the trunk.
My problem is making that plate/covering the hole/deciding which part to cover.

You did an awesome job with the console, and I was going to do the same, but decided to make the console myself, so it can connect to the fabricated dash....


ANYWAY, yeah, I'm having an issue with filling the hole, or making a cover/plate for the back of the dash.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
What did you use under the fiberglass to make the custom shape with the contour?

I used a thin piece of cardboard in my dash, that needed a flexible plate.
 

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What did you use under the fiberglass to make the custom shape with the contour?

I used a thin piece of cardboard in my dash, that needed a flexible plate.
All I have is fiberglass filling the hole. I did a write -up on how it was done. Quick how to..... I scuffed up the plastic so the resin had something to "bite" into. I covered the opening from the front with saran wrap & shipping tape to make a form. Filled the resin and fiberglass in from the backside. Once dry the saran wrap & tape was removed & a finish layer of bondo & sanding to finish it off.

I think with the dash your going to need to just make a filler plate and mount it to the front of the dash. Maybe out of 1/6th lexan ?? that way you can see through it to trace the opening to size.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
ahh I see... You used the saran wrap and tape to make a mold, and filled from behind (pause).

Here's what I got so far. I'm using wood plates. I'll use gorilla glue or liquid nails to ahere it to the back of the vent.



(I don't know how to do one thing at a time. I'm just like that, lol)






(thanks for the replies btw, it means a LOT to get some help)
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
oh wait... I thought you made the contours, where the floor shifter hole was, by hand. I didn't know that the black piece was already there (that can snap on and off).

Those are some smooth contours, brotha
 

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oh wait... I thought you made the contours, where the floor shifter hole was, by hand. I didn't know that the black piece was already there (that can snap on and off).

Those are some smooth contours, brotha

BTW, THANKS for the compliments and its a pleasure to help anyone out.

OK, YES, the black plate with the contours is the original shifter plate. The biggest problem I see with what your doing is the vinyl that covers the dash. No matter how you fill the hole, your going to have that vinyl to fight with. That is why I would think a cover plate from the front may look the best. If you were able to get a fiberglass / bondo filler you would still have to deal with the vinyl when you try to sand down the finish. If you make the filler plate, you can still paint / cover it to look better. I also thought about the vent idea, but wanted to keep them working. There just isnt alot of space on the taurus dash to add things.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
So, here it is, with black spray paint. I don't think i need to fill it in. It looks good. It doesn't look great, but it's what I needed.

 

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From what I can see in the pics, it looks good. As long as it works for what your wanting, thats cool.
 

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Much better shot. Looks good, now you need to add gauges in there..LOL
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Dude, I'm going to find a gen4 floor console... My mental capacity is full and I don't want to build a console from scratch, lol.
 

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Dude, I'm going to find a gen4 floor console... My mental capacity is full and I don't want to build a console from scratch, lol.
LMAO.... I have another convert. Good luck finding one. I'll keep my eye open when I hit the yards.
 

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This is a really clever idea. I'm thinking about doing this but just with the driver's vent, and perma-wiring a phone dock/AUX cable in place, it's just the right height for nav and close enough to the column shift (in my case) for ergonomics.

With a relatively simple cut in the vent air shafts themselves (not looking at my car atm but I surmise it's two plastic air shafts next to each other, not just a very wide opening, right?) you should be able to funnel the lost air pressure out passenger side center vent.. Which means increased flow for the rear passengers/front passenger.
 
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