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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The left rear Stabilizer Bar Link was rusted and broken off, as shown in the attachment. Could you tell me how to replace it, and what are the torques to tighten the nuts? Thanks much.
 

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1. Loosen lug nuts;
2. Jack up car, put on jack stand(s);
3. Remove wheel;
4. Remove stabilizer bar U clamp bolt (stabilizer bar to body);
5. Remove stabilizer link to Strut nut and bashing;
6. Remove stabilizer bar to link nut and bashing;
7. Put a jack under the strut, put a piece of scrap wood between the jack and the strut and jack up. While strut moves up, pull the stabilizer bar link out.
8. Install is reverse of remove.

Torque spec:

1. stabilizer link to strut nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
2. stabilizer link to stabilizer bar nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
3. stabilizer bar U clam bolt to body 20 -30 ft.-lbs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
QUOTE (hhu168 @ May 30 2010, 05:14 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807960
1. Loosen lug nuts;
2. Jack up car, put on jack stand(s);
3. Remove wheel;
4. Remove stabilizer bar U clamp bolt (stabilizer bar to body);
5. Remove stabilizer link to Strut nut and bashing;
6. Remove stabilizer bar to link nut and bashing;
7. Put a jack under the strut, put a piece of scrap wood between the jack and the strut and jack up. While strut moves up, pull the stabilizer bar link out.
8. Install is reverse of remove.

Torque spec:

1. stabilizer link to strut nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
2. stabilizer link to stabilizer bar nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
3. stabilizer bar U clam bolt to body 20 -30 ft.-lbs.[/b]
Your reply is greatly helpful to me.
Two more questions: if the two links need to be replaced simultaneously? May I replace the link without disassembling the stabilizer bar?
Thanks much.
 

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QUOTE (peteryjg2008 @ May 30 2010, 08:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807982
Your reply is greatly helpful to me.
Two more questions: if the two links need to be replaced simultaneously? May I replace the link without disassembling the stabilizer bar?
Thanks much.[/b]
You don't need to replace the two links simultaneously. Although you may be able to replace the link without removing the U clamp bolt, removing the bolt makes it much easier to remove the link.
 

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QUOTE (hhu168 @ May 30 2010, 07:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807985
QUOTE (peteryjg2008 @ May 30 2010, 08:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807982
Your reply is greatly helpful to me.
Two more questions: if the two links need to be replaced simultaneously? May I replace the link without disassembling the stabilizer bar?
Thanks much.[/b]
You don't need to replace the two links simultaneously. Although you may be able to replace the link without removing the U clamp bolt, removing the bolt makes it much easier to remove the link.
[/b][/quote]

I just replaced my rear end links and tightened down the top and botttom nuts all the way. I think these replacements were designed to be tightened down all the way because the bushings are not bulging as much as I thought they might. Anyone have thoughts on this?
 

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You won't need to remove the u-clamp that holds the bar to the body. There will be enough room to move the the link into place just by putting a jack under the knuckle and compressing the rear strut.
QUOTE (criteriaman101 @ Jun 6 2010, 01:41 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=809854
QUOTE (hhu168 @ May 30 2010, 07:36 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807985
QUOTE (peteryjg2008 @ May 30 2010, 08:21 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=807982
Your reply is greatly helpful to me.
Two more questions: if the two links need to be replaced simultaneously? May I replace the link without disassembling the stabilizer bar?
Thanks much.[/b]
You don't need to replace the two links simultaneously. Although you may be able to replace the link without removing the U clamp bolt, removing the bolt makes it much easier to remove the link.
[/b][/quote]

I just replaced my rear end links and tightened down the top and botttom nuts all the way. I think these replacements were designed to be tightened down all the way because the bushings are not bulging as much as I thought they might. Anyone have thoughts on this?
[/b][/quote]
 

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1. Loosen lug nuts;
2. Jack up car, put on jack stand(s);
3. Remove wheel;
4. Remove stabilizer bar U clamp bolt (stabilizer bar to body);
5. Remove stabilizer link to Strut nut and bashing;
6. Remove stabilizer bar to link nut and bashing;
7. Put a jack under the strut, put a piece of scrap wood between the jack and the strut and jack up. While strut moves up, pull the stabilizer bar link out.
8. Install is reverse of remove.

Torque spec:

1. stabilizer link to strut nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
2. stabilizer link to stabilizer bar nut 6 - 12 ft.-lbs;
3. stabilizer bar U clam bolt to body 20 -30 ft.-lbs.
I'm sorry for reopening this thread but that torque spec is WAY wrong!!! WAY to low. The ford factory manual (as well as alldata to back it up) says that from the stabalizer link to the strut should be 66 ft-lb, and from the link to the stabalizer bar should be 41ft-lb. I hope no one had a link fall off because of those low torque ratings! You don't have to remove the stabilizer bar from the body. May be really hard to get a torque wrench in there anyways.

P.S. I got that information from the factory manual for a 2000 taurus/sable.

 

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I'm sorry for reopening this thread but that torque spec is WAY wrong!!! WAY to low. The ford factory manual (as well as alldata to back it up) says that from the stabalizer link to the strut should be 66 ft-lb, and from the link to the stabalizer bar should be 41ft-lb. I hope no one had a link fall off because of those low torque ratings! You don't have to remove the stabilizer bar from the body. May be really hard to get a torque wrench in there anyways.

P.S. I got that information from the factory manual for a 2000 taurus/sable.

Sorry for re-reopening this thread, but I came across it during a search and want to clear up an inaccuracy in the above post for anyone referencing this info in the future.

The photo and torque specs above are for the FRONT stabilizer links; this thread is meant to detail the process for replacing the REAR stabilizer links. Please don't torque your rear links to 66/41 ft-lbs!!!
 

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I replaced both rear stabilizer link ends when one of them broke. The one broke from corrosion. The other wasn't far behind with a severely thinned rod. I slathered a lot of antiseize at the critical areas of the new links.

Interestingly, though I'm from Michigan, this car saw little salt duty.
 

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This reminds me that I have a pair of links that are no longer needed and need to be tossed out.
 
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