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sundarpn, I told you I'd get this done. Actually I took these pics as I reassembled the car, but the removal and installation are only reversed. These pictures are of the left (driver) side. The right side is the same. Also, you'll notice that some of the parts look different. I have installed SHO front calipers, EBC slotted/dimpled rotors, Moog endlinks, Moog outer tie rod ends, and a FSTB. The rotor backing plates are also removed. I have painted the endlinks, tie rods, knuckles, calipers and brackets.

With the wheels removed, unbolt the calipers and move out of the way. I use bailing wire to hang the calipers. Do not let them hang from the brake lines.

Loosen but do not remove the axel nut. This bolt is very tight! You need a 30mm axel nut socket. I have some one stand on the brakes while I loosen the nut using a cheater bar. You can also do this just before you raise and support the car, while the tires are still on the ground. This way you do not need some one to stand on the brakes.
 

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Remove the rotor. It slides off.

Disconnect the upper end of the endlink from the strut. Push the loose end out of the way. You do not need to remove the entire endlink. Also disconnect the small 10mm bolt that hold the brake line to the strut. If you have ABS slide the ABS wire out of the supports on the strut.

Loosen but do not remove the strut pinch bolt.

Remove the nut on the lower A arm. This bolt is very tight. A 13/16" socket fits perfectly if you do not have the metric equivalent.

Use a Piman Arm puller to seperate the lower A arm from the knuckle.
 

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Remove the bolt at the rear side of the A arm (although I have said in the past you do not need to do this, I did it this time and it helped!!)

Have your helper use a cheater bar to lever down the lower A arm while you lift up and out on the knuckle. (if you are very adept and agile you can do this by yourself using your foot to push the A arm down)

Remove the axle nut and strut pinch bolt. The knuckle will now slide off the axle shaft and the strut. Support the knuckle with some wire. (Remember, it is still connected to the tie rod end, but do not let it dangle. If you need to remove the entire knuckle as well, remove the castleated nut and cotter pin on the tie rod at the same time you remove the nut on the lower A arm. Use the pitman arm puller to seperate the tie rod from the knuckle.)
 

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Using a Spring Compressor.


Attach the spring compressor to the spring or to the lower perch and the spring. Tighten one side just a little and then do the next. You do not want to cause the spring to bind or put an uneven compression on the spring. Try to keep the sides equal.

Once the spring is compressed enough, the top of the spring will pull away from the the strut mount. The strut mount is held on by the large nut at the top of the strut shaft. You need hex head (Allen wrench size 6mm IIRC) and an 18mm open box end wrench to remove the nut.

When the nut is removed, the strut mount and bearing slide off the top.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Originally posted by godspunk32@May 28 2004, 06:38 AM
That brake setup looks amazing!

What did you use to paint the calipers, and how exactly did you do it???

JR
The brakes are for an SHO. I purchased new SHO caliper brackets from Ford Parts Network, new calipers from Parts America (Advance Auto Parts), EBC Green Stuff pads and EBC slotted/dimpled rotors from Tire Rack.

I used black gloss brake caliper paint and then went over them with high temp graphite. We'll see how long the graphite stays on, I don't think it has a high enough temp rating. I used the black paint on the rear calipers a while back, and they still look good.
 
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