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I have tried beating it, heating it and lubing it up (the bolt, I swear) and I CANNOT get this bolt out. I'm changing out my ball joints and need to get it out so that I can take off the wheel assembly.
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Shank is probably rust jacked in there. You already got it loose, so that's the hard part. Try tightening and loosening with penetrating oil and heat until its turning relatively freely, then knock it out.
 

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Shank is probably rust jacked in there. You already got it loose, so that's the hard part. Try tightening and loosening with penetrating oil and heat until its turning relatively freely, then knock it out.
Looks like there is a load on the bolt. Might have to lower the sub frame a bit to release the load. No sigh of rust.

-chart-
 

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There is most likely the strut tab pushing against the threads but you would think that the bolt would "thread" the tab. You can put a long pipe into the A arm and push down and then try to back the bolt out. I have had trouble with on front pinch bolt and it was packed with corrosion. I used an impact wrench and drove it in and out multiple times. Can you see it the strut has moved into or out of the knuckle.
 

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There is most likely the strut tab pushing against the threads but you would think that the bolt would "thread" the tab. You can put a long pipe into the A arm and push down and then try to back the bolt out. I have had trouble with on front pinch bolt and it was packed with corrosion. I used an impact wrench and drove it in and out multiple times. Can you see it the strut has moved into or out of the knuckle.
Pic of bolt where the strut tab has been resting when trying to turn the bolt. See pic of strut. The tab is welded above the knuckle. I would cut it off the strut and then that would free the tab from the picture. I hope someone tries this cut and remove and share. I do not have one of my 3 in my herd needing removal in the near future. I would use, hacksaw, grinder, or cutting tourch. Be careful to not cut into the strut body and make a mess.
-chart-
 

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Looks like there is a load on the bolt.
Indeed. From your picture it is not clear whether you took out the stabilizer bar link. Loosen its bolts first. If need be lift the knuckle a bit with a jack until there is play in the link.

It might be that the wheel on the passenger side is still on the ground. That means quite some force on the stabilizer bar. I always lift both sides and take both wheels off to prevent pressure on the stabilizer bar.
 

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Looks like there is a load on the bolt. Might have to lower the sub frame a bit to release the load. No sigh of rust.

-chart-
You are correct, definitely still loaded. Had to look at it again. I agree with others that the sway bar is probably the issue if it's connected on the other side.
 

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I had the same problem on my '99 Taurus a couple of years ago. Here's how I got it out: Go to one of the big parts stores like AutoZone and "rent" their ball joint removal tool. Its actually free because you get your deposit money back when you return the tool. Basically, its a kick-ass C-clamp. What you do is "press out" the bolt using the right combination of pieces that come in the kit. But if I remember right, I had to use a large deep well socket of my own to line up everything just right before I cranked down on "screw part" of the tool. Go to youtube and check out ball joint removal videos to see how the tool works.
 
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