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Discussion Starter #1
What you need:

Latch you're going to rekey
1 or 2 extra latches for the wafer pins (I just took the cylinders out at the junkyard to save $$)

Small flathead screwdriver
Needlenose pliers (hemostats work wonders here)


Step 1:
Flip the latch over and look at the back, remove the black cover by prying at the indicated points (one on each side) and sliding it off. It will slide to the right of the photo. There is a spring in there, so don't let it fly across the room and impale someone.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Step 2:
You'll see this.
Pry the black latch up out of it's slot in the track made into the grey plastic. If you pry at one of the arrows and get at least one side out, you can slide the whole thing out.

You'll end up with this, remember how it goes.
 

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Step 3:
You're trying to remove the cylinder (circled in blue), and the wafer pins (circled in red) are holding it in.


Slide something down along the pins to push them into the cylinder. I used my hemostats for this. Push the cylinder out the front of the latch at the same time.
 

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Step 3
You'll see the cylinder like this, the pins sit in slots in the plastic, we'll call the wider end the top.



Insert your key and examine how the pins sit. For all intents and purposes, we can label them 1-4 left to right. Leave pin 1 alone, it's what holds the cylinder in the latch. You'll need to mess with 2,3,4. I used the cylinder that best matched my key to make it easier, it matched 2 of 3 pins correctly. The correct pins will sit flush with the top and bottom of the cylinder at the same time. In the first pic, see pin 4 sits too high, it's the wrong pin. I also swapped in another pin to show how it could also look if it was too deep of a pin, see it sticking out the bottom...



Now take said misfit pin and pull it out (take your key out first). easiest done by pushing them out the top from the bottom, but be careful, there's a tiny little spring in there. You'll see a number on the pin (1-4 I believe). If the misfit pin was sticking out the top when you had the key in there, you need a higher numbered pin, if it stuck out the bottom, you need a lower numbered pin. Just push it into it's slot, and it'll kinda latch into place. Repeat until you get all the pins to sit flush when the key is in there.
 

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Step 4
Reassemble the back of the latch (cover, latch, and the other thing that came out with the latch.) The latch will just slide right into it's track with the other thing attached to it. Just snap the cover back on.

Insert your key into the cylinder and insert it into the hole from which it came. Press pin 1 in so it will fit. The cylinder only fits one way, so no worry there. You should hear pin 1 click when you get it to the bottom of the hole.

Now it's complete, and your ignition key works with your glovebox. :thumb:
 

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Great writeup man! Off to the junkyard next weekend or something...good project to work on.
 

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It works! I was one matching wafer pin short of having two working locks, one for my car and one for my sister's. Until next time at the scrapyard, I have a lockable storage space in my SEL for stuff I don't want people to see. Kudos and a half to Michael for proving that we can overcome decontenting with a little creativity and just the right proportion of cojones. Hurray for onboard storage security!
 

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I just got one, 3 actually.
Installing it Tuesday.

Thanks.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Key width measurements. Key is 9mm wide, so you lose 1mm for each pin depth.

  1. 8mm
  2. 7mm
  3. 6mm
  4. 5mm
  5. 4mm
 

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What about keying the Ignition and door. I wionder if they use the same distance discs for keying.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
QUOTE (thesavo @ Apr 13 2010, 05:43 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797258
What about keying the Ignition and door. I wionder if they use the same distance discs for keying.[/b]
The widths I measured off of the key itself. I do have an extra ignition cylinder. **off to take it apart :ph34r:
 

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Well.... For the life of me, I cant seem to get this damn thing apart....
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Beat it with a hammer.

The pins are identical.
 

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QUOTE (00tec-saTX @ Apr 13 2010, 08:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797270
Beat it with a hammer.

The pins are identical.[/b]
Oooo. Looks like I am keeping my spare lock cores. I am going to crab some tumbers next time I go scavaging.
I wonder how fast I can remove an ignition tumbler from the column :wink:. I could make the Merc. Mariner keys work my Taurus by keying a new tumbler to match it.
Then During the PATS key addon, when I go to turn the third key, remove the Taurus Cut tumbler; insert and twist the Mariner Cut tumbler and Pats key.
 

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Discussion Starter #15

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QUOTE (00tec-saTX @ Apr 13 2010, 08:55 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797274
QUOTE (thesavo @ Apr 13 2010, 06:53 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797272
QUOTE (00tec-saTX @ Apr 13 2010, 08:42 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797270
Beat it with a hammer.

The pins are identical.[/b]
Oooo. Looks like I am keeping my spare lock cores. I am going to crab some tumbers next time I go scavaging.
[/b][/quote]
I did figure out how to get the core apart the right way after I 'dismantled' it :)
[/b][/quote]
how does it come apart?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
At the base of it, there's a small ~1.5mm ball bearing that rolls back and forth when you turn the key. It's spring loaded. You have to press it all the way in, then the core slides out toward the key.
 

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QUOTE (00tec-saTX @ Apr 13 2010, 09:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797277
At the base of it, there's a small ~1.5mm ball bearing that rolls back and forth when you turn the key. It's spring loaded. You have to press it all the way in, then the core slides out toward the key.[/b]
Similar to how the Tumbler comes free from the Column?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
QUOTE (thesavo @ Apr 13 2010, 07:07 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797278
QUOTE (00tec-saTX @ Apr 13 2010, 09:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=797277
At the base of it, there's a small ~1.5mm ball bearing that rolls back and forth when you turn the key. It's spring loaded. You have to press it all the way in, then the core slides out toward the key.[/b]
Similar to how the Tumbler comes free from the Column?
[/b][/quote]
Kinda, but this one also rolls along a groove in the shell. There's no hole in the outside to get at it. You'll have to use something like a dental pick.
 

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I got plenty of those.

Alright every one. Next trip to salvage yard i am pinging up lock tumblers.
 
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