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Discussion Starter #1
Thanks to Paul Nimz (SHOZ123) for this fix.

Parts you'll need:
1 - 24" x 3/8" O.D. hydraulic line with 3/8" male NPT ends
1 - 3/8" barb x 3/8" male NPT brass hose fitting
1 - 3/8" female NPT x 3/8" brass compression coupling
2 - SS hose clamps

Tools you'll need:
- plubmers tubing cutters (mini size)
- various metric and SAE wrenches/sockets
- hacksaw
- 3/8" NPT tap kit (including drill bit)
- teflon tape
- RTV silicone (optional)
- large phillips screwdriver
- turkey baster (optional)

1. Using turkey baster, remove all PS fluid from reservoir. (Fluid could possibly flow back through pump and leak all over engine when line is removed)

2. Disconnect leaking line at top of PS pump.

3. Using tubing cutters, cut hard line back by transition to rubber line, leaving ~2" hardline for compression fitting.

4. Cut old hard line right behind nut for PS pump using hacksaw or sawzall. Using large phillips screwdriver, punch remainder of hard line out of fitting.

5. Using 3/8" NPT tap kit, drill and tap fitting. Teflon tape the 3/8" male NPT to 3/8" barb fiting and thread into old hardline fitting.

6. OPTIONAL: Cover old hard line fitting with RTV silicone, and thread back into PS pump. NOTE: Do this only if you have issues with the threads sealing. Use of RTV silicone requires the car not be run for several hours after application for silicone to set.

7. Take new hydraulic hose and teflon tape one end. Thread 3/8" female NPT to 3/8" compression adapter to hydraulic hose and tighten down.

8. Test fit hydraulic hose to remaining hardline on car. Measure hydraulic hose against barb fitting and mark for cutting.

9. Using hacksaw or sawzall, cut hydraulic hose to length. NOTE: hydraulic hose contains steel mesh and is extremely hard to cut. Wear protective eye covering.

10. Connect compression adapter to remaining har line and tighten down. Slide hose clamps over cut end of hydraulic hose and press hose onto barb fitting. Tighten down hose clamps.



 

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:thumb:

submit this to the wiki. This method is much easier than attempting to replace the entire high pressure line from the rack to the pump with the engine in the car.

When I repair mined, I did not tap the banjo. Tapping the banjo is an irreversible "fix". You won't be able to ever replace the hose with a new one without replacing the banjo. Granted, you'll probably never need to fix or replace hose again. Instead, I tapped the nut on the end of line that threads into the banjo. I used a hack saw to cut the metal line, then pressed the remainder out from the nut. I drilled and tapped the nut to accept a 3/8" barbed x 1/4 NPT male fitting.

[attachmentid=22829]
 

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Discussion Starter #3
When I repair mined, I did not tap the banjo. Tapping the banjo is an irreversible "fix". You won't be able to ever replace the hose with a new one without replacing the banjo. Granted, you'll probably never need to fix or replace hose again. Instead, I tapped the nut on the end of line that threads into the banjo. I used a hack saw to cut the metal line, then pressed the remainder out from the nut. I drilled and tapped the nut to accept a 3/8" barbed x 1/4 NPT male fitting.

[attachmentid=22829] [/b]
That's what I did as well. Did I not explain it well enough? - feel free to add any pics you have Luke.
 

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<div class='quotemain'>When I repair mined, I did not tap the banjo. Tapping the banjo is an irreversible "fix". You won't be able to ever replace the hose with a new one without replacing the banjo. Granted, you'll probably never need to fix or replace hose again. Instead, I tapped the nut on the end of line that threads into the banjo. I used a hack saw to cut the metal line, then pressed the remainder out from the nut. I drilled and tapped the nut to accept a 3/8" barbed x 1/4 NPT male fitting.

[attachmentid=22829] [/b]
That's what I did as well. Did I not explain it well enough? - feel free to add any pics you have Luke.
[/b][/quote]


My brain doesn't work very well when I've been at work for 32 consecutive hours.

SHOZ123's repair works just as well, but rethreads the banjo and uses a 3/8" x 3/8 mNPT barbed fitting.

These are all bits and pieces I picked up after Paul sent me instructions. This is what you need to re-tap the banjo. At the time, I didn't realize the pump had a banjo fitting, I thought I was looking at the pump. So I used the 1/4 NPT instead. Later, I noticed the banjo.

[attachmentid=23059]
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I guess I could get a pre-made line with fittings on both ends. :pat: [/b]
It would have been best to get the 12" hydraulic line, but Farm&Fleet didn't have any in stock.
 
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