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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am exploring the theoretical possibility of upgrading (not immediately now) to a high quality subwoofer setup. After reading some reviews and modeling subwoofer parameters in WinISD, it appears that some of the best 12 inch subwoofers are Alpine Type-X (4ohm DVC, 1000watt RMS) and Dayton HO 12 (4ohm DVC, 700watt RMS). Both have a relatively nice smooth frequency curve with F3 of ~33 and ~40Hz respectively and fairly deep bass extension. Both work well in smallish sealed box. The only problem is that according to WinISD, they need to be fed a lot more power to achieve the same SPL at 70Hz compared to my current Re Audio SRX. (400watt vs 200watts). So for good headroom, I clearly need to have an amplifier that provides 700-1000watt RMS just for the subwoofer. Is that viable in a 3rd generation Taurus? Will the alternator keep up? Will I need an expensive capacitor?


Another possibility that I am exploring right now, is going with a 15 inch subwoofer instead. Due to larger cone area, most 15 inch subwoofers model quite well. And they're very efficient. I'd probably need to feed to one less power than to my current 12 inch subwoofer. I specially liked Dayton Reference HF 15". It has a frequency response curve virtually the same as the more expensive and power hungry Alpine Type-X while using 2 times less power to achieve the same SPL. But! Most 15 inch subs need huge boxes to sound well.. We're talking about 3.5 to 5 cubic feet for sealed enclosure.. Put an average 15 inch subwoofer into a 2cubic foot box, and the deep low end extension disappears, and boomy peaks appear.. However, they do remain very efficient in smaller boxes.

So the choice between is between two evils: having a monster mono amplifier for slamming a 12" sub like Alpine Type X or Dayton HO vs a huge box, at least 3 cu. ft. in the trunk for a 15" subwoofer.
 

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You can easily run a 1000w amp. Just to be safe tho do the big 3 upgrade only costs ~50-60 bucks and its well worth it. Never buy a capacitor, and if you plan to have more power in the future you'll need a 2nd battery,
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 · (Edited)
You're all gonna be deaf before you're 40.

That's 7 more years of enjoying loud bbbass :)

Actually, like I said, I am looking for quality subwoofer, not noise level. Watts do not translate into SPL. It's possible to come up with a 200watt subwoofer setup that could make ones ears bleed or a 400watt subwoofer that sounds just normal. My sub is driven by 250watt RMS amp and it sounds fine. Enough power to make car parts shake if I wanted it. I don't want to increase volume relative to that. I just want to go deeper and tighter, and well maybe play around a bit.. I know I could go for ported subwoofer setup.. but ported tend to have bloated lows in car environment and I don't have a good equalizer for tuning subwoofer output.
 

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its been a couple of yrs since ie been in the market for car audio. polk used to be top of the line with the dx model the second generation momo was an awesome speaker. however are only as good as the amp used. seeing how most amps are built over seas and the ratings all total b.s. its hard to find the right combo. i have been doin some shopping and found an awesome amp that i plan on getting soon. what makes this the perfect amp is its called the minotaur. the biggest plus about this amp is that it is built by the steve mantz. if you are not know the name he has done the most collectable amps ever. here is a link to his site his numbers are true power ratings not the b.s you read on others.Zed Audio Corporation
 

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he also has articles on what a car can handle. what ohms should be ran for the best sound. his article on thd is the best ive come across
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
^Thanks for the link.

By the way, I have decided that I almost certainly will not get this Alpine Type-X subwoofer. It seems like better and cheaper subwoofers exist with more moderate power requirements. Right now I am contemplating running a single 15 inch Dayton DVC series subwoofer vs a dual 12 inch setup with two Dayton HO 12 subwoofers. The good thing about DVC15 is that it has an amazing frequency response and SPL curve that goes very deep in a sealed box, and it can run off a moderate amplifier. The bad thing is that I need to figure out where to get or how to make a box for it (need 2.2 cu ft) so that it's not taller than 13.5 inches (height of back of our trunk). The other option, the dual HO12 setup, is better and it would run in a frailly compact 1.5 cu ft dual chamber box, but I would need to find a better amplifier. Something with roughly 500-600 RMS rating.
 

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Think about it this way, 1000Watts/12.8v(Average IF You Have A Tiny Bit Better Elec. Than Stock)=78 1/8amps of power output to the amp from electricals. That IS IF you are giving it true 1,000RMS power after voltage drop AND impedance rise. I actually had a Sundown SAZ-3000D on 4 Sundown SA-15s at half-ohm and needed 2 (BASICALLY) LifeLine Batteries and still dropped to high 13s. Now, the Alpine Type-X has much better SQ than SPL. I would have you check out the RE SEx and slap 1,000RMS to it. I know they can take 1k daily all day in the right box. Buddy had 2 12" SEs on 500RMS total doing a 41 @ 37Hz.

 
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