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I'm new to the Taurus and am trying to learn. Help is needed. How much transmission fluid is needed if I only drop the pan and change the filter? The manual that I have only gives the quantity needed if the transmission and torque converter is completely dry. Thanks.
 

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Whatever it takes to refill it.

I drop the pan and change the filter every 12k - 15k miles. I have (8) qts. on hand when I do. It usually takes (7) qts., (+,-).

This has been true for both the AXOD and AXN4's.

When refilling, I'll put in 4-5 qts., then briefly start it up and shift from Park to 1 and back, and shut it off. Restart it and check the level. Shut it off and add somemore and repeat the above procedure until it's full.

Then I 'll test drive it and check again. I continue to watch the ATF level for a day or two until it's reached a steady state.

In (18) years of driving (6) Taurii with automatics, I've only lost one trans, and that was at 190K on the '87 Wagon AXOD.
 

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^+1. I usually add 6 qts. after a pan drop and have 2-3 qts. extra on hand for top off if needed. Mercon v is used in the power steering system also.
 

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There is a sticky in this forum and a wiki entry on doing a complete flush. I highly recommend you read through these if you haven't already and consider doing this procedure. If you are going to go through the trouble of dropping the pan, you should get as much of the old fluid out. It is pretty simple and requires only disconnecting the return hose and letting the engine pump out the old fluid. You will need about 15 qts to do a complete flush and fill.
 

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^+1. I usually add 6 qts. after a pan drop and have 2-3 qts. extra on hand for top off if needed. Mercon v is used in the power steering system also.
Hi sheila,

Just for the record, my 2000 Taurus SES (v6 Duratec) owners manual says "Mercon V" for the tranny, and plain old "Mercon®" for the Power Steering. Not sure if that makes a lot of difference in the Power Steering unit.

I did see this thread: http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/87-engine-drivetrain/168920-mercon-vs-mercon-v-2.html. Looks like that thread is mainly about fluid for the tranny, and not fluid for the Power Steering.

Hmmm . . .

P.S. Note that some older Fords specifically require "Type F" tranny fluid in the Power Steering.
 

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Mercon V supersedes all Fords that required Mercon. Type F still needs to be used in type F applications......... which your 2000 does not. Mercon V for everything else.
 

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Type F hasn't been specd for Ford PS systems since the mid to late 80's
 
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You're right on that one Jeff K. I have an '86 TC that likes to drip Type F occasionally out the steering rack end seals. When it get's a little thirsty, I give it a little nip. It's not much of a leak, like maybe an ounce a year. It doesn't blow back onto the underside of the car, so I'm not worried about it. I just replace the piece of cardboard on the floor every couple years.

Also thanks to sheila and sousa632 for the confirming the downward compatibility of Mercon V as a valid replacement for Mercon® in the power steering units. If anyone's interested, I found this informative article about ATF fluid: https://www.cartechbooks.com/techtips/autotransfluid

Regards . . .
 

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Fyi, I finally did the "pan- only" fluid change.

I was able to get out 6 qts with an inexpensive ($12) hand pump (Hopkins 10803 FloTool Transfer Pump from Amazon) : https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D2QL0DU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. That required attaching the supplied ~1/4" black tube to the ~1/2" supplied red tube (with the little cone-shaped adapter), and fishing the black tube down the dipstick tube and into the pan, but not so far as it would curl up out of the fluid. It took about 20 minutes to pump out. Standing up, I leaned the base of the pump up against the top of the tire and used my weight to lean into the pump handle and push it down. This was way less fatiguing than trying to hold the pump in one hand and press down on the pump handle a zillion times with the other hand. I put 3 1/2 qts into one Arizona Tea jug and marked that level with a Sharpie, then filed a second jug up to about 2 1/2 qts, also marking it where it leveled off. So 6 qts was all I could get with this pump.

I was then able to pump out another 1/2 qt into that 2nd jug with a hand held MightyVac (that I usually use for bleeding brakes). Similar procedure: Attach one of the MightVac's ~ 6ft clear hoses to the pump's plastic jar, pump some out, empty the jar, pump some more out, empty the jar, etc until no more fluid could be pumped out. If it matters, I will mention that the front of the car was maybe 2 inches higher than the back of the car.

In summary, I was able to cycle 6 1/2 qts this way and my tranny fluid level was exactly where it was before and after. Remember to check your fluid level hot and the vehicle level, put it in Park, enable the emergency break, run through the other gears maybe 5 seconds per gear, return to Park, verify the emergency break is still engaged, and check your fluid level with the dipstick fully seated into the the dipstick tube.

Regards . . .
 

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Back in 2011 Barkentine mentioned above that they did a ~7 qt "pan drop" fluid change and new filter every 12k - 15k miles. That sounds very ambitious to me, but I could be wrong.

Based on the fact that that other vehicles routinely go 60k+ miles without tranny service, I'm thinking perhaps a pan-only fluid change every 30k would be plenty, and don't worry about the filter (or maybe change the filter every 60k or 90k). Any comments on my thinking?

Thanks, I appreciate your experience . . .
 

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Back in 2011 Barkentine mentioned above that they did a ~7 qt "pan drop" fluid change and new filter every 12k - 15k miles. That sounds very ambitious to me, but I could be wrong.

Based on the fact that that other vehicles routinely go 60k+ miles without tranny service, I'm thinking perhaps a pan-only fluid change every 30k would be plenty, and don't worry about the filter (or maybe change the filter every 60k or 90k). Any comments on my thinking?

Thanks, I appreciate your experience . . .
Please, finish completing your owner profile. I have no clue what year or model Taurus you're driving. It's been eight months, now - get with it. ;)
 

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Sorry, It's a 2000 Taurus SES w/ Duratec and AX4N tranny.

Btw, I uploaded a pic and tried to complete the Profile, but the Profile wants information that I'd rather not provide. And . . . you can't save the Profile unless all fields are completed.

Regards . . .
 

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Back in 2011 Barkentine mentioned above that they did a ~7 qt "pan drop" fluid change and new filter every 12k - 15k miles. That sounds very ambitious to me, but I could be wrong.

Based on the fact that that other vehicles routinely go 60k+ miles without tranny service, I'm thinking perhaps a pan-only fluid change every 30k would be plenty, and don't worry about the filter (or maybe change the filter every 60k or 90k). Any comments on my thinking?

Thanks, I appreciate your experience . . .
I do a vacuum bottle, put the out take in 5Q oil jugs and look at the amount. I figure 5-6Q out and I put back in the amount I take out. Only Mercon V of course. My present '03 wagon, bought used nearly 3 years ago, someone put the bolts in and rounded the heads on some so no chance of removal. So I did 3 exchanges and now the fluid looks very nice. I test my out take by color by putting it in a plastic communion cup. :D On my other 2 cars, every other year exchange. I use a paint marker for the date on the inner fender. Always pull the vent cap, clean and properly replace after adding fluid. If you do not remove the vent cap for adding fluid, it is a pain. If the vent cap is not put on right, it will push the fluid out the dip stick tube. (experience talking) Ford says 150K on the filter.

-chart-
 

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Sorry, It's a 2000 Taurus SES w/ Duratec and AX4N tranny.

Btw, I uploaded a pic and tried to complete the Profile, but the Profile wants information that I'd rather not provide. And . . . you can't save the Profile unless all fields are completed.

Regards . . .
Talk to Sousa362 or an admin. Neither I nor anyone else will remember your information otherwise. One does not have to provide info they don't wish to provide. Lord knows, I didn't do so.
;)
 

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The info what you see to the left of my post is what's required. Don't need to add the town, the state would suffice, car info is what we are after here. Different areas of the country run into different issues with their car. I don't see the issue unless you are hiding from the government or the mob........ or both.....
 

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I do a vacuum bottle, put the out take in 5Q oil jugs and look at the amount. I figure 5-6Q out and I put back in the amount I take out. Only Mercon V of course. My present '03 wagon, bought used nearly 3 years ago, someone put the bolts in and rounded the heads on some so no chance of removal. So I did 3 exchanges and now the fluid looks very nice. I test my out take by color by putting it in a plastic communion cup. :D On my other 2 cars, every other year exchange. I use a paint marker for the date on the inner fender. Always pull the vent cap, clean and properly replace after adding fluid. If you do not remove the vent cap for adding fluid, it is a pain. If the vent cap is not put on right, it will push the fluid out the dip stick tube. (experience talking) Ford says 150K on the filter.

-chart-
Thanks chart. Good point about that vent cap. In the past, I had a tiny driveway-stainer drip of fluid coming out around the top of the dipstick tube. I had posted on TCCA and the vent cap and correct installation thereof was discussed. Think I used a razor blade to cut an X in the top of the cap. That didn't fix the tube leak, but a new dipstick did. Perhaps because I already had a good vent action, I didn't have any spillage when I refilled my 6 1/2 qts. I just used a piece of that 1/2" red hose that came with the pump, shoved into the base of a typical oil filling funnel (it fit nice and snug into the funnel hole). I put the red hose down into the tube as far as it would go and poured the new fluid into the funnel, no mess thankfully.

You gave a good tip about checking the tranny fluid color. It's only been 30k since this tranny was rebuilt (claimed it was torque converter disintegrating). I just shook up the old fluid recycle jug, and poured some of that into a small glass. The old fluid looks like grape juice. It is not fully transparent like brand new fluid is. I put a couple drops of the old fluid on a paper towel and after 10 mins it flowed out nicely (ie. no sediment/debris rings), and has no heavy burnt smell. This old stuff does have a bit of a resin-like smell, whereas new fluid in the container has almost no smell.

Unless someone tells me differently about the color of the old fluid I just mentioned, I'm going to have a change of mind: I'm scheduling another pan-only change for 5k miles from now, and here's why only 5k: That will be about 14 months at our current use rate. At first I was thinking waiting 15k miles, but that would be 3 years, and it's hot as hades 7 months a year down here. If you get 4-5 years on a battery you're lucky.

Any comments on the new plan "5k/14month" pan-only fluid change plan are appreciated.

Regards . . .
 

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The info what you see to the left of my post is what's required. Don't need to add the town, the state would suffice, car info is what we are after here. Different areas of the country run into different issues with their car. I don't see the issue unless you are hiding from the government or the mob........ or both.....
Ok, got it this time. Even found a pic of the right color. Thanks for your help :)

Btw, you are correct. I am hiding from the feds this weekend: 1040's are due in no later than Tuesday. So I just sent Pharaoh all the grain I had in the coffers to appease Ra. Perhaps this way I won't get beheaded if I have to file an extension :->

Regards . . .
 

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Ok, got it this time. Even found a pic of the right color. Thanks for your help :)

Btw, you are correct. I am hiding from the feds this weekend: 1040's are due in no later than Tuesday. So I just sent Pharaoh all the grain I had in the coffers to appease Ra. Perhaps this way I won't get beheaded if I have to file an extension :->

Regards . . .
Nice try, but as anyone knows Pharaoh collected the taxes himself. Amon-Ra was just humored. (probably why all of the Pharaohs were cursed. Even Amon-Ra wanted his cut. :D Funny thing, if he WAS a god, why didn't he just take what he wanted? Jehovah had that one down pat.)

Now, let us get off of religious references. I do not want to offend the gods of TCCA. :D

BTW, thx for updating your profile. I'll tell you why I was a pest about it...there are members here, with valuable info, who do not even bother to respond to posts from members wherein which the specific model and engine/tranny info isn't immediately at hand. We certainly would not want "them" to foreswear contributions to a member's question, merely for lack of vehicle information.

Seems as if you have your problem figured out. Glad to hear it.

Thanks for reminding me I have to finish MY taxes. :( Block's tax software this year has a glitch, such that once I enter a test entry it can't be deleted. Our large refund got reduced, $200 at a time, every time I DID try to do so. I am on my fourth, and LAST return file. (I had to delete the previous .T16 files just to get rid of the erroneous entries.)

OK, enough rambling. Sorry, all ~ :lol2:
 

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Oh crap. I also use H&R Block software. Let you know immediately if I hit the bug or find a workaround.

Regards . . .
 
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