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Discussion Starter #1
Hello all,

Assume that I need to do the brake works so I need to lift my car and then use jack stands to support the car.

Q1> How high I can use just two jack stands to support the car without the danger that the car may fall all backwards?

Q2> Is it a good practice to just use one jack stand to support the side where I need to do the brake task?

Thank you
 

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Don't Be Stupid
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I always jack up the car and place the stands on the rear subframe bolts. You can go as high as your jack will let you.

If you do one side at a time, and you want to go high with it, you may have problems with the car rocking because it will pick up the whole side and may want to rock corner to corner.
 

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1" lower than the height at which it fell.

Seriously, engage the parking brake firmly and get the front wheels just off the ground for removal. If you're just replacing pads, you don't need to be under the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
1" lower than the height at which it fell.

Seriously, engage the parking brake firmly and get the front wheels just off the ground for removal. If you're just replacing pads, you don't need to be under the car.
Q1> why do we need to apply parking brake?


Q2> when we do the brake works, should we release the parking brake?

Thank you
 

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Parking brake locks only the rear wheels so when you jack up the front two you would have nothing holding your car in place if you didnt have the parking brake on.
 

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You don't really need the jack stands to do brake job. Just lift the vehicle with the scissor jack, and do one side at a time, with shifter in P and parking brake engaged. If you work on the rear brakes, release the parking brake, leave shifter in P, and support the opposite rear wheel with a set of chocks.
 

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Don't Be Stupid
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DO NOT WORK ON YOUR CAR ON A SCISSOR JACK

Just asking to become an amputee. You really trust that crappy chunk of stamped not to give you a plastic limb?
 

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^ +1

I was taught to chock / block the non-brake-work wheels (that is, chock the backs when working on the front, chock the fronts when working on the back). These prevent the car from shifting front to back. Lifting one side at a time prevents the car from shifting to the side.

And if you're working on blacktop and you're in the US heat district (most of the country these last couple of weeks), watch out for jacks and jack-stands sinking into the blacktop. Almost sank a Volvo I once owned, but the bottom braces on the stand just barely prevented full submersion of the jack stand. And I didn't notice until I was done and couldn't pull the jack stand out. A short section of 2x6 or 2x8 will spread the load.
 

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^ +1 on using chocks/blocks, and not working on a car on a scissor jack.

There is a reason that they banned scissor jacks in salvage yards.
 

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Ford does not recomend jacking or supporting the car from the subframe. I know many do it anyway. I am sure they have a reason.

I have gotten away from using jack stands and have acquiredd several10x10 (aprox) blocks of wood and sections of 2x6's for stacking. This is similar to what boat yards use when storing boats for the winter. Much more secure and safer. I don't have to worry about the digging into the black top. It also keeps your support rails from getting hacked up from hard steel jack stand saddle.

Good wheel chocks are a must if you go high or will be dealing with stubburn bolt, etc. You can get a good set at Harbor freight for under $10. They always have a discount coupon you can use to get them even cheaper.

AS everyone has said, if you are just working at the wheel you only need to go high enough to get the wheel on and off. You should be able to change everything and bleed it with out crawling under. I you have to adjust the parking brake or replace hard line then you need to get underneath and you will want more room.
 

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Shaken but not stirred, if you can support and shake without it falling off ¥ou are in the right direction. I use 3 ton stands and support under them. I made some double 3/4 in hardwood plywood turned in both directions and laminated with glue. 18"x18" is stable and strong!!
Use your good sense and just be safe. I use jack stand with jack released enough to sit on the stand. Esay to jack back up and finish the job~
 

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^ +1 on using chocks/blocks, and not working on a car on a scissor jack.

There is a reason that they banned scissor jacks in salvage yards.
Provided that no drums, bolts, or other parts are seized enough to require enormous forces to get moving and the car is placed on hard, even surface, using the scissor jack alone should be good enough to change safely brake pads, shoes, drums, or rotors since you don't need to get underneath the car. But yes, jack stand will be a little safer.
 

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Provided that no drums, bolts, or other parts are seized enough to require enormous forces to get moving and the car is placed on hard, even surface, using the scissor jack alone should be good enough to change safely brake pads, shoes, drums, or rotors since you don't need to get underneath the car. But yes, jack stand will be a little safer.
He's not in south central Texas, he's in the northeast, where winter exists ans they use salt to fight winter.
And regardless if he's under the car or not when it falls, if he's sitting next to it and it falls toward him, he will be.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Ford does not recomend jacking or supporting the car from the subframe. I know many do it anyway. I am sure they have a reason.

I have gotten away from using jack stands and have acquiredd several10x10 (aprox) blocks of wood and sections of 2x6's for stacking. This is similar to what boat yards use when storing boats for the winter. Much more secure and safer. I don't have to worry about the digging into the black top. It also keeps your support rails from getting hacked up from hard steel jack stand saddle.

Good wheel chocks are a must if you go high or will be dealing with stubburn bolt, etc. You can get a good set at Harbor freight for under $10. They always have a discount coupon you can use to get them even cheaper.

AS everyone has said, if you are just working at the wheel you only need to go high enough to get the wheel on and off. You should be able to change everything and bleed it with out crawling under. I you have to adjust the parking brake or replace hard line then you need to get underneath and you will want more room.
Q1>
which one set do you buy? rubber or plastic?
Wheel Chock - Harbor Freight Tools

Q2> Next time, when you lift your car up with wood stacks, may you show us a picture so that I can learn from you


thank you
 

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Q1>
which one set do you buy? rubber or plastic?
Wheel Chock - Harbor Freight Tools

Q2> Next time, when you lift your car up with wood stacks, may you show us a picture so that I can learn from you


thank you
I like the rubber ones.

I will take a pic but it may be a few weeks.
If you live near a boat yard just look at how they store the boats in dry dock. it is the same thing and the base blocks are similar.
 
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