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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Wondering how hard the rear plugs are to change, I saw the intake looks to be blocking access to them. I didn't look to hard but it looks like it may be a pain to do the rear plugs and wires?

I tried searching figuring there was a write up on plugs and wires but I couldn't find anything, just lots of posts on which plugs to use. Is there a write up on here somewhere?

My number 1 cylinder isn't firing. No change when I unplug the #1 wire from the coil pack and also it doesn't "arc" from the coil pack to wire when I go to plug it back in and the wire is close to the coil. All the other cylinders you can hear a miss when I unplug the wire from the coil pack and they also arc from the coil to the wire when they are about an inch apart. I'm guessing plugs and wires since the car has 120,000 miles and from what I have been told they have never been changed, but don't know for sure.

Thanks
 

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You can remove the cowl or the upper intake, about the same amount of time either way.
 

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I changed my rear plugs, did not remove the UIM. On the drivers side, remove the air fiter and the air tube that runs to the throdle body.
After you have done this, it will open alot of space to work with.
If you look, down into the engine, you will see a plate which i believe has one bolt seciring it to the Throddle bodym it a small bolt, the 2 more bolts 2 to a sensor right under the ERG valve, and 1 that fastens to the block.
Once the bracket/plate is removed it will allow you get to the plugs in the back of the engone.
I went and bought a plug socket with a swivel head on it, as it will help in getting to the plugs with different angles. It took, me about 45 min to 1 hour to swap them out with new wires.
i done think removing the UIM is nessasary.
Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I changed my rear plugs, did not remove the UIM. On the drivers side, remove the air fiter and the air tube that runs to the throdle body.
After you have done this, it will open alot of space to work with.
If you look, down into the engine, you will see a plate which i believe has one bolt seciring it to the Throddle bodym it a small bolt, the 2 more bolts 2 to a sensor right under the ERG valve, and 1 that fastens to the block.
Once the bracket/plate is removed it will allow you get to the plugs in the back of the engone.
I went and bought a plug socket with a swivel head on it, as it will help in getting to the plugs with different angles. It took, me about 45 min to 1 hour to swap them out with new wires.
i done think removing the UIM is nessasary.
Good luck
Sounds good. I have a couple of swivel spark plut sockets. I didn't look real hard when I had the car for a different repair but it looked like a pain with the UIM in the way but it will be great if taking the air filter out opens things up.

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Changing rear plugs on a Vulcan is easy as a pie. Just use an extension so its easier to reach. I did all 6 in under 30 min.
 

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Changing the plugs on the Vulcan is very easy. Just follow the above directions and you will have them changed in no time. As far as the misfire on #1 it sounds like you have the same issue that I had on my 01 when I got it. It had a bad coilpack. A trip to the local JY and $25 later solved the misfire I had in #1 plug. My car runs like a top now. Ford put that coilpack on several different models of cars and trucks so they are an easy find at the JY's Mine came off of a Ranger pickup.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Changing the plugs on the Vulcan is very easy. Just follow the above directions and you will have them changed in no time. As far as the misfire on #1 it sounds like you have the same issue that I had on my 01 when I got it. It had a bad coilpack. A trip to the local JY and $25 later solved the misfire I had in #1 plug. My car runs like a top now. Ford put that coilpack on several different models of cars and trucks so they are an easy find at the JY's Mine came off of a Ranger pickup.
Thanks for the advice. I figured since my cousin said the plugs and wires have never been shanged I would start there and see if it solves the miss. If not then the coil pack is next on the list.
 

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^+1. Good plan of attack. Vulcan plugs and coil pack are easily accessible and usually can be serviced without removing anything except for maybe some creative use of tools.
 

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I went the plugs and wires route first before I figured out the coilpack was bad. The plugs didnt look all that bad. But now I have nice new wires and plugs. I managed to break off #5 plug in the front as they all three were rusted in place. I had to use an easy out and it finally came out. Now it runs like a swiss watch.
 
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