rear disc? more then likely the the pads are low.
if rear drum pretty much the same thing. rear shoes are worn down. iirc you said in another thread that you drove with the parking brake on. this would glaze the drum/rotor and the pads also. might just need to be changed.
The parking brake cable runs under the car along the driver side. About halfway back is the adjuster, roughly between the doors. You can tighten it to get better engagement, just make sure that it is fully releasing.
As mentioned though, I would inspect your rear brake pads to make sure your engagement issues aren't due to excessively worn pads.
Pull the tires and eyeball pad thickness, frozen caliper pins, etc. . High drag heat may have stuck a pin. A good visual is the first step.
Applying the parking brake rotates the pistons screwing them out to compensate for wear hence having to screw them back in with the piston tool on a pad change.
Check the pad / rotor gaps before adjusting the cable.
:rolleyes2:....As for adjusting the Park brake, unless it's different than my 94 gl(with factory 4 wheel disc) the rear disc has a drum made in the center which houses a small set of shoe's also know as parking brake. Good luck, david
Well, the pads do look pretty warn. It seems like I only get about 20k out of a set of pads. That is even with new calipers that don't stick. I have not left the parking brake on many times. I just fixed the switch for the indicator light, so it won't happen again. But, I really only dragged them for about 3 miles. There was no smoke coming off the brakes, but they were warmer than they should be.
But, the car brakes AWESOME. I used Rofren brake pads from Raceshopper.com. They don't sell them anymore, so I will have to try something comparable. Thanks.
Ok, There is no real parking brake adjustment on the rear disk brake cars. Below is an explination of how the rear disk brakes work on Ford cars that use are design.
The turn buckle is for removing cable stretch and installation only. NOT for adjusting the parking brake.
The parking brake is adjusted automatically when you use the normal brakes. Every time you use the normal brakes the break fluid pushed the piston outward and the new position is the "adjusted" position of the parking brake.
When the parking brake is set, the caliper piston is rotated by the cable and the parking brake is "set".
When the parking break doesn't work, there are a few things to check.
1. do you have any break pad material left?
2. does ALL of the parking brake cables move freely? (corroded, binding cables)
3. do you normal rear brakes work?
Collapsed rubber brake hoses or plug proposing valve(saden only) will stop brake fluid from getting to the caliper.
4. does the park brake lever assembly on the back of the caliper rotate correctly? (rusted in place)
5. Did someone use a big C clamp to force the caliper into submission and brake the caliper?
6. is the piston rusted / not moving against the brake pad?
Now that you mention it, when I drove with the parking brake on for 3 miles, only the driver's side was hot. I imagine the parking brake works on both calipers, correct. Maybe the passenger side cable is frozen.