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On the floor shift model all you have to do is remove the 2 screws holding the finish panel in and then remove the cluster screws, that will give you the same access to the bezel, don't seem fair does it?
 

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since no one has posted them yet, I'll throw up the pics of removing the IC on a floor shifter...and its much easier!

first remove the two hex head screws from under the climate control vents trim piece, which also surrounds the IC. I belive a 7mm socket fits them.
 

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that pieces is held in place also by 4 metal clips, so after you remove the screws, it just pops out. may take a bit of force, especially the first time. lower the Steering Column to the lowest setting so you can get to it easier. I have found the best way to get a hold of it is to point the A/C vents downards, and you can find a small lip on the bottom of that opening, its as good of a handle as anything. after you get that off, you have full access to the IC.
 

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Remove the 4 gold colored hex head screws on each corner of the IC, these hold it into the car. I think I used a 9mm socket on these. After these are removed, it will come out easily. Tilt it up so it can fit out of the hole in the dash, be careful as there are still electrical connectors on the back, so don't yank on it.
 

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Turn the cluster over and disconnect the two electrical connectors on the back. They are keyed so when you put it back in, they will only go in one way. There is a slot for a 3rd connector which is unused on my car, maybe on the 96's where there was alot more stuff in the IC there may be 3 connectors to disconnect.

And that's it, after removing those two, the IC comes right out. Sorry to all the column shifter people, ours is much easier to remove. If you want to remove the lens, to change the needles or paint the bezel or anything like that, remove the torx screws around the outside of the cluster, just like in Ashley's pictures.
 

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Discussion Starter #31

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Originally posted by Firespirit@Apr 19 2005, 10:14 PM
(McGilles - Thanks for the write-up for the floor shift models!)
no problem, hopefully this information will be very useful to many members in the future!
 

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Great write up Ash. :thumb:

Now I wish I had a working digicam when I pulled my HU out of my Bull when I mounted that bracket for the XM.

The HU with the G3 and EATC is MUCH different that the HU panel on yours Ash. My HU only came out about 2-3 inches before encountering resistance. I removed the temp sensor tube and just held it aside for the minute to two it took to drill a hole and mount the XM bracket.

I'm making progress .. I found my digicam - problem is - battery is missing :(
 

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I changed out my guage bezel over the weekend. But I didn't have to do the headlight switch thingy or unplug the battery. Oh well, maybe I'm just like my user name says.
 

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I have a 98 sable with shifter in the middle.....is it T10 (star shaped) screw i need or T15...?

Also, do english wrenches work with the 7/8mm size or do i need to get new ones?
 

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t20, and a 9/32 sae socket will work inplace of a 7 mm socket used
 

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Ash, I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that is ahem...lucky enough to have the tan interior with black dash <_< . I never could understand why someone would order one like that...
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Originally posted by hotrod97@Jun 25 2005, 06:06 PM
Ash, I'm glad to see that I'm not the only one that is ahem...lucky enough to have the tan interior with black dash <_< . I never could understand why someone would order one like that...
Oh, but I have a brown dash with black plastic.. :lol2:

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Wow, great step by step instructions!

Just one question, if anyone could help me out.

I just recently purchased a 2003 Ford Taurus SE, and the radio/HVAC control unit is in a different shape than the older models.

It looks like this http://www.crutchfield.com/S-zY7WSftpcq1/c...sp?i=142FD1380B , which is also what I plan on replacing it with.

I was wondering if this would affect the instructions at all, and if any of the wiring behind might be any different?
 
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