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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
ok heres the deal..

i have this funny idea that i could use the unit in the trunk of my 05 taurus to hook up an amp and a sub....

i think my only problem would be the rca cables cuase i heard you can hook your remote wire to either the black an pink wire or the black an green one.. am i on the right track or do i need some sort of other connector???
 

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No, thats a great idea and people do it all the time, and there are benefits to keeping the system stock looking. What you need is either line out converters or a sound processor. The sound processor is more expensive, though not more so than a good head unit. It reads your original speaker outputs, analyzes the signal, and then sends the processed signal to the amp. This setup overcomes the bass reduction built into the stock RCU.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
awesome buddy thanks.. Now my only question is where i could find either one of those things an price them.. I am not loaded with cash in any sorts so i would deff have to go the cheaper route but i do not want to compromise the sound quality in the cab either.... Any more advice on that would be very helpful thanks
 

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awesome buddy thanks.. Now my only question is where i could find either one of those things an price them.. I am not loaded with cash in any sorts so i would deff have to go the cheaper route but i do not want to compromise the sound quality in the cab either.... Any more advice on that would be very helpful thanks

A Line out convertor won take away to much of the sound quality. It just hooks up to the rear speaker wires and gives you acccess to rca cables. The remote wire you can run to a fuse in the fuse block uner the foot well. Hook it to the radio fuse so this way when ever the radio sees power throu the fuse the amp comes on as well.

You can get most line out convertors at a radio shock or any store that has audio displays and stuff like that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
thanks fellas..also should i be looking for the highest watts maximum output or does that really matter?
 

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As far as power rating, it depends on what kind of speakers you are going to be driving. If you are on a budget, your choices will be limited, or if you want to go all out, opt for the sound processor and a good 300 watt per channel 4 channel amp. Myself I like the Excelon line, but there are lots of good choices, so long as they are good name brands, you basically get what you pay for. On the budget area, I would just stick with the line converters, and yes, amps with built in converters can save you some money. Plus some of them are pretty awesome amps. The stock system does about 20 watts per channel RMS if you are running a Mach or JBL system. (The JBL is slightly higher).
 

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I have been researching the same idea.

from what i found, it is better to spend a little more on the audio control units than a standard $20 unit from walmart.

Going with that, the min. you would need is the AudioControl Lci2
Audiocontrol LC2i 2-channel line output converter for adding amps to your factory system at Crutchfield.com
This taps into the rear speakers and gives you 2 sets of pre-amp out puts. A main one and a sub channel. This unit corrects factory roll off issues.

With this you could buy a nice 4 channel amp and run front componets a channel 1 &2 and bridge a subwoofer to the other two channels. Then use the factory amp for the rear speakers for fill.
This unit runs around $100 and if you get it from crutchfield you can use the code 3a825 and get $20.00 off. So, $80. Just slightly more than a dash kit.

Next would be the Lc6i. basicly the same thing, except you tap into the front and rear speakers and it gives you front, rear, and sub outputs. W/ this you need 5 channels of amplifaction. 4 for the speakers and 1 for the subs. this depends on your wiring. i suppose you could get away with just a 4 channel amp.
AudioControl LC6i (Gray) 6-channel line output converter for adding outboard amps to your factory audio system at Crutchfield Signature
again, yous the code and you can get this for $130.
 

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So if you were building a budget system

1. The Lc2i- $80
2. MB Quart 4 channel- $100 MB Quart ONX4.80 4-Channel ONYX Series Car Amplifier
3 12" type E sub $75- Alpine SWE-1243 Type-E 12" single 4-ohm subwoofer at Crutchfield.com
4- Cadence 6.5" comps- $60.00- NEW Cadence CWM-6KIT Aluminum 6.5" Component Kit - eBay (item 290534910925 end time Jun-15-11 11:16:57 PDT)

So an ok little system for around $300 don't seem bad. This obviously depends on your taste for audio. I was just board and felt like throwing together a budget system. lol
 

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A good starting point when choosing a subwoofer is to consider how much trunk space you want to give up. Ported boxes are more efficient but they usually need more space than sealed boxes. In my opinion, sealed boxes are the least hassle and they're terribly hard to get wrong, even with prefabricated boxes, while ported boxes need to be designed for a specific subwoofer in mind to sound best. If your sealed box is off by 0.25 to 0.5 cu ft, it's not going to affect sound quality much. In terms of which box to buy/build, I'd recommend to go with the one that's not more than 13 inches tall (just right to fit a 12 inch sub) because, in that case, you can push your sub box all the way to the back of your trunk area right next to the back of the rear seat. The space lost to the subwoofer would be minimal. Note that metal bar at the top of the trunk area in the back. It's about, 13-13.5inches above the floor, so you need a sub box that's about 13 inches tall. 14 or more will not work.

In terms of which box to buy, I can't say enough good things about Sonic Sub boxes. Their build quality and finish is good and they use 3/4 inch thick MDF. The price is ridiculously low. I personally like these models:


Sonic Sub Boxes 1H12-1.0-GRAY (1h1210-gray) Single 12" Hatchback for 1.15 cu ft

Sonic Sub Boxes 1H12-1.4-GRAY (1h1214-gray) Single 12" Hatchback for 1.45 cu ft

Sub Boxes Hatchback Single 12" Subwoofer Unloaded Enclosure Box - 112H for 1.5 cu ft.

Which box to buy/build depends on the subwoofers. I would prefer to start with a box in which your subwoofer has qtc of about 0.7-0.8 and then tune it if necessary (add polyfill for more deep bass, or some wood bricks to reduce deep bass). Subwoofers with too high qtc like 1 or more, will have a tendency to have exagerated upper bass, above 50Hz, making say drums and some guitar sounds too strong, and the deeper bass weaker than is often desired. And this is a problem with a lot of cheaper subwoofers, like Infinity Reference, RE REX, Alpine Type E or Alpine Type S. They usually tend to have too high qtc in a "reasonably" compact box. If cash is not a problem, I'd consider going with higher end products of these companies, like Alpine Type R, RE Audio SRX, or Infinity Kappa 12, all priced somewhere in $100-$150 dollar range. For more hardcore music fans, I'd suggest JBL Power, RE SE/X or Peerless XXLS12 (all priced closer to $200, with Peerless considered one of the more hardcore "SQ" subs).

Right now I got RE SRX12 (300watt RMS, dual 4ohm version wired for 2 ohm load) in the 1.15cu ft sonic sub box mentioned above running off 250watt RMS amp channel. The amp gain is at 50% and at times it feels like there is too much bass, specially deep bass. Not that I am complaining about it... The upper bass is at times too weak, too strong, or just sloppy, so you don't want to low pass it much higher than say 60-80Hz, but that's an issue with most car subwoofers except for a few hardcore SQ subwoofers. I set my low pass at [email protected] Given the price of just $100 and modest amplifier needs, I am pretty happy with it.
 
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