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Hello all. I have posted alot here about the godforsaken DRL problem i have with my 99' Sable. They never worked, but i want them to work now because of legal issues. My local parts stores don't have the module, and Ford is way to expensive.

I saw something today about using a relay for DRL's. It was for a ford explorer, so i don't think a taurus/sable would be much different. The guy said to connect pin 30 to a fused 12v dc of the battery, pin 85 to ground, pin 86 to a switch (which in my case will be the run position of the ignition), and pin 87 as an output to the headlights.

My assumption is that it will work, but will the rest of the highbeam setup be affected because of the relay being there? And my second question would be about splicing the output wires to the headlights into one to work of the single pin of the relay? Or would i use two relays?

I also saw something saying that the DRL system is wired in series so that each headlight gets half of the highbeam setting. Maybe i could do it that way?? Anyways, im not an expert when i comes to car wiring, so if anybody has suggestions, please comment. Thanks alot
 

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The way you suggest will leave the low beam on when switching to high beam. Both filaments in the bulb will be on at the same time, which will cause heat / burned out bulb problems. You could use a second relay (a 5 terminal, using the normally closed contacts) to shut off the low beams when high beams are switched on.
 

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If you actually look at the wiring diagrams, the DRL's are the hi-beams operating at a frequency driven by the module. Check out Rock Auto for the module.

(I bought one for mine for $50 just because I like the extra safety and avoiding tickets in California when I visit the in-laws.)

Do it the right way and don't jerry-rig it. The last thing you need is an electrical fire or to be going through headlight bulbs left and right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
The way you suggest will leave the low beam on when switching to high beam. Both filaments in the bulb will be on at the same time, which will cause heat / burned out bulb problems. You could use a second relay (a 5 terminal, using the normally closed contacts) to shut off the low beams when high beams are switched on.
how would i go about wiring it with a 5 terminal? would i have to do something with the 87A contact? im no expert at wiring these things, so any help is appreciated.
 

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Several auto stores sell DRL kits for cars that don't have them.

I have one for DRL and auto lights if interested (bought for a car I no longer have)

Note: I have to find it in my garage somewhere. I know I saw it 2-3 weeks ago.
 

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The way you suggest will leave the low beam on when switching to high beam. Both filaments in the bulb will be on at the same time, which will cause heat / burned out bulb problems. You could use a second relay (a 5 terminal, using the normally closed contacts) to shut off the low beams when high beams are switched on.
Uhm thats how high beams work in my van and my car. High beams are not a separate brighter filament, it is a second filament that comes on in addition to the low beam. Now maybe your car is different, but thats how mine works, and how most high beams work.
 

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Uhm thats how high beams work in my van and my car. High beams are not a separate brighter filament, it is a second filament that comes on in addition to the low beam. Now maybe your car is different, but thats how mine works, and how most high beams work.
No, the low beam filament goes out when you lock it into high beams mode (push the MFS forward). Both filaments are lit up when the MFS is pulled backwards though which is why it doesn't lock when pulled back since it meant to be temporary (i.e. flash-to-pass). All cars with dual-filament headlights are wired this way (lows turned off when highs locked, but lows stay on for flash-to-pass).
 

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No, the low beam filament goes out when you lock it into high beams mode (push the MFS forward). Both filaments are lit up when the MFS is pulled backwards though which is why it doesn't lock when pulled back since it meant to be temporary (i.e. flash-to-pass). All cars with dual-filament headlights are wired this way (lows turned off when highs locked, but lows stay on for flash-to-pass).
This. The only cars that have both filaments on during high beam useage is those with a "bright box" which forces it.
 

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Not getting too technical here, but newer DRL systems are just using a resistor block rather than the older pulse width modulation module that fails. (was a recall on Gen1). Personally, I would not bother with DRL in USA unless it's mandatory. ???
 

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There is no national law requiring DRLs in the US. There are local laws that may require turning on headlights on certain stretches of highway, but that's about it.
 

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Not getting too technical here, but newer DRL systems are just using a resistor block rather than the older pulse width modulation module that fails. (was a recall on Gen1). Personally, I would not bother with DRL in USA unless it's mandatory. ???
Personally, I wouldn't care about a DRL unit because I drive with my lights on anyway. As Qwertz said, there is no law concerning DRL's However there are rules governing the use of your lights in Rain, fog (no duh.), dusk, dawn, and stretches of highway. You'll be surprised at how many jackasses drive without their lights dusk/dawn in fog and rain. DRL would prevent these idiots from causing accidents. I hate it where I'm driving along in rain and have to nail my brakes at the last minute just because some idiot cuts me off with his lights off.

Its also a no brainer that you're more visible with your lights on than if they were off.
 
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