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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Hello.

So, after I got my car back from the repair crew a while back (month or two ago? Somewhere around there) I noticed right away that my RPMs on a flat road did not go below ~1.9k RPMs. Before I got the alternator taken out and replaced, my car had an average of ~1.5k RPMs on flat roads usually (when cruising). Now my car WILL NOT go below ~1.9K RPMs on flat road, but will go to ~1.4K or 1.5K when going uphill. What's going on here? A transmission problem or something? Cold weather here in the Pacific NW? I have no idea. This problem has been going on every day. It is persistent.

P.S: Duratec engine, 142.8k miles


Thanks for any help.
 

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Cake monster
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Hello.

So, after I got my car back from the repair crew a while back (month or two ago? Somewhere around there) I noticed right away that my RPMs on a flat road did not go below ~1.9k RPMs. Before I got the alternator taken out and replaced, my car had an average of ~1.5k RPMs on flat roads usually (when cruising). Now my car WILL NOT go below ~1.9K RPMs on flat road, but will go to ~1.4K or 1.5K when going uphill. What's going on here? A transmission problem or something? Cold weather here in the Pacific NW? I have no idea. This problem has been going on every day. It is persistent.

P.S: Duratec engine, 142.8k miles


Thanks for any help.
Inaccurate speedometer?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
flat road - what speed? Did you put it back into OD?
50 MPH. It used to be about 1.4 or 1.5k RPMs at that speed. I've been confirming this whole situation by leaving it in OD while driving. =\



By the way, I inquired this situation due to the fact that I think I might be losing more money than usual, as higher RPMs generally means more gas consumed due to the engine working harder. I would have no problem with it, but I'm quite frugal.
 

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How long were you driving for? How cold was it? When it is very cold, it can take quite a while for the converter to completely lock up, resulting in 200-400 RPM increase over "normal" until it locks. Around here, with temps in the single digits that last few mornings, it takes 5 to 8 miles of interstate driving to get lockup in both my 05 Tec and 95 Vulcan.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
These cars aren't geared that low, 1900 RPM sounds about correct for 50 MPH.


:huh: Aren't most of your questions are about adding power and tricks for accelerating more quickly?:)

Oh, really? 'That's odd.
And uh...hehe. I look for cheap ways of adding power...B)


Jeff- The temperature up here is around 30-40 degrees F on average around this time. I drive about twenty minutes to get to work.
 

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Cake monster
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Oh, really? 'That's odd.
And uh...hehe. I look for cheap ways of adding power...B)


Jeff- The temperature up here is around 30-40 degrees F on average around this time. I drive about twenty minutes to get to work.
Well, one option for more power is to switch the Taurus for a Mustang. :D

If you want to add power to something, that's a pretty fine route to go. You can spend a few grand and see big improvement. You get strong transmissions, manual cars are easily available and V8s sound awesome. Win win situation. I still think a Taurus with a mustang drive-train would be interesting.

I thought Duratecs had pretty good power to start with, at least compared to a Vulcan. :lol2:
 

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With TC locked up at 60 MPH, my 05 Tec runs around 2200 - 2300 RPM, and my 95 Vulcan runs around 2000 RPM. Speedos in both cars seem pretty accurate (1 or 2 mph) based on comparison with GPS, and the tach in the Tec agrees pretty well with actual RPM shown on a scan tool. No clue on the accuracy of the tach in the 95.
 
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