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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi...first post....Love our '04 Taurus, it's our 3rd and the best in comfort, room and economy as we're able to consisitantly get 37 mpg on the highway and usually no less than 25 mpg city. Only things other than OEM are the K&N air filter, Mobil One 0W30 oil and we run with 38/37 psi in the tires. Previous ones were an '88 and then a '95 GL.
Today, I had an interesting issue. Driving on an expressway approaching the exit and after disconnecting the cruise control, I realizied that the car was not slowing down as usual. Verified that the cc was actually off and also checked that nothing was actually obstructing the acc. pedal. Saw that the idle speed was not coming back to normal, so had to use copious amounts of braking. When reduced to 'stop and go' traffic the 'new' idle was enough to drive 45 mph without using any accelerator pedal movement. Just before we reached our nearby destination, the idle returned to the normal sub 1000 rpm. We parked, did our thing, returned started the car back up, idle initially about 1300rpm which reduced to sub 1000 rpm shortly thereafter, so, thought, all was back to normal. Well, on our return after a few normal stops at some traffic lights, the same situation reared its' ugly head., and this time I was NOT using the cc. Weather was beautiful but on the warm side ....86F and we were using the AC. Any ideas as to what I should check? I see 'Sheila' on another thread suggested to maybe clean the IAC.....how do you do that? Any other ideas?
Thank you very much!!
 

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Tps

Hi...first post....Love our '04 Taurus, it's our 3rd and the best in comfort, room and economy as we're able to consisitantly get 37 mpg on the highway and usually no less than 25 mpg city. Only things other than OEM are the K&N air filter, Mobil One 0W30 oil and we run with 38/37 psi in the tires. Previous ones were an '88 and then a '95 GL.
Today, I had an interesting issue. Driving on an expressway approaching the exit and after disconnecting the cruise control, I realizied that the car was not slowing down as usual. Verified that the cc was actually off and also checked that nothing was actually obstructing the acc. pedal. Saw that the idle speed was not coming back to normal, so had to use copious amounts of braking. When reduced to 'stop and go' traffic the 'new' idle was enough to drive 45 mph without using any accelerator pedal movement. Just before we reached our nearby destination, the idle returned to the normal sub 1000 rpm. We parked, did our thing, returned started the car back up, idle initially about 1300rpm which reduced to sub 1000 rpm shortly thereafter, so, thought, all was back to normal. Well, on our return after a few normal stops at some traffic lights, the same situation reared its' ugly head., and this time I was NOT using the cc. Weather was beautiful but on the warm side ....86F and we were using the AC. Any ideas as to what I should check? I see 'Sheila' on another thread suggested to maybe clean the IAC.....how do you do that? Any other ideas?
Thank you very much!!
I have had that and was caused by TPS.
Throttle position sensor
-chart-
 

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Nah, i would get a borg-warner unit from advance auto or oreilly. If you want to clean the iac, simply remove it (2 bolts and an elec. conn.) and spray it with throttle body or brake cleaner.
 

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Please be sure to verify the linkeages up by the throttle body. A few members with 04+ models have had issues with the plastic clip breaking
 

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^+1 on Nicks (Bull Geek) advice. Iceobar, i should have mentioned this quick test last nite. When high idling, place car in park, set the e-brake, open the hood and tap iac with the handle end of a screwdriver to see if idle normalizes. If it does, i would remove and attempt cleaning as they are a bit pricey, although sometimes, replacement is the only option. Theres also a tps elec. test somewhere on here. Might click on the search or topic finder features at the top of this page. Probably have to type in: throttle position sensor electrical test instead of tps, because if iirc, search feature doesnt recognize words of 3 letters or less. Good luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks Sheila, I was thinking of doing that but was a bit timid of the consequences of potentially knocking some debris loose, but will try that now. I just returned from Pep Boys where they had the BW TPS as you had reco'd. Unfortunately, after the installation. the high idle is still there, but doesn't appear as bad.. If I give it a quick shot of acc when in neutral when the car is stopped, the idle comes back down to normal but when you are 'on the road again', (pardon the expression) it goes back up and maintains a higher than normal idle and thus speed....and thus requiring more braking. So, with the above I believe I have eliminated the TPS and will move on to the IAC. My understanding of the IAC was that it was usually associated with low idle and/or stalling, not high idle.....and that appeared to be confirmed by the tech at Pep Boys....do you agree? Btw, there has not been a "Check Engine", so far.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Sheila.....guess what....I went out and did the procedure you reco'd in your last post....
The engine was still warm from my previous adventure but was idling at about 1200 rpm. On the 3rd tap on the IAC the idle immediately dropped back to the normal 700 - 800 rpm range. So, looks like I will attempt the cleaning. Here's a brain teaser for you....Last night I perused some YouTube videos about the IAC and came across one that got my curiosity up. The reason was that the sample car, a Camry, also had the telltale sticker of having a K&N air filter installed. Do you think that this is a coincidence?....or...is it possible that the air filtration is not as good as advertised.....and/or ...is it possible that the red respray oil, applied after cleaning the filter, separates from the air filter and dirties the IAC and maybe even the MAF? I'm pretty careful and conservative when cleaning, drying and respraying them when doing the maintenance, preferring to underspray. I've been using the K&N on this car for about 75k miles and probably the same on the '95, all without any such issues....Just wondering if potentially there might be a connection.
'Kudos' and thanks again for the tip!!!
 

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The only con ive heard of concerning the k&n was possibly over-oiling and fouling the maf fine filament wires (easily cleaned with crc maf cleaner spray). Ive never heard of any issues affecting the iac. Ive never gotten a code with a faulty iac either.
 

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There's a K&N panel air filter that fits into your stock box. I had one for awhile, but decided to go back to stock. No real benefit on the bull
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
In the ongoing saga of the high idle issue we had with our 2004 Taurus, I'd appreciate some feedback and also post some non related (I think)observations. After replacing the TPS, which didn't resolve the problem, I decided to replace the IAC as most of the reports I read was that the cleaning was usually just a temporary solution, with some mentioning that cleaning would remove a silcon coating thus resulting in a future failure?? . In that light, I picked up a BWD IAC and proceeded with the replacement only to be puzzled by the gasket. When I removed the original IAC, there was no gasket, yet the replacement had one. I called and talked to 2 Ford dealers and spoke with both their service and then their parts departments plus I called back the Pep Boy's store for their clarification. There was some confusion in their parts books but all seemed to believe that it was required and one in particular was pretty adamant about it. Based on that, I installed the IAC with the gasket. Started the car, and the idle now returned to it's normal initial 1300 rpm reducing to sub 1000 which is usually about 700 - 800 rpm after about a minute or so. Happy camper again, but wound up with a couple of issues that I can't explain. The previous day, I had the TPS installed by Pep Boys, and also had them do a normal engine oil change while there. All good until the morning after when I spotted a pool of oil under the car in our garage, immediately checked the engine oil, which was full. Then took a clean rag and wiped the pool to discover it was red. Transmission fluid....opened the hood again and found the transmission dip stick sitting about 4 inches or so out of its full down position. Checked the tranny fluid appeared fine both in quantity and colour. Reseated the dip stick. Returned to Pep Boys just to 'once over' everything, at their request also. Wound up talking to a very Taurus competent mechanic who had listened to me recount the entire situation. He asked about the type of material that the IAC backed on to....black plastic, and indicated that this type usually only had 2 "O" rings around the 2 round orifices on the IAC and doesn't require a paper gasket. He removed the IAC and 'viola', the holes had 2 blue 'O' rings, thus he removed the paper gasket. Then moved on to the tranny fluid issue.....everything normal after the inspection but he had heard and seen this same thing a few times on the Taurus and was at a loss to explain it..and asked if I would pose this question to the forum to see if anyone has an exact explanation. Left after it all checked out, idle was still back to normal......but....on the road, I discovered that the cruise control now didn't work. The green cruise light was on, but it wouldn't hold the required speed, just drifted down like it hadn't even been actioned.....any ideas?
Lastly is an observation, just after we initially bought the car in '04, we noticed that despite what the 8 position air conditioning rotary switch indicates, the compressor is running in all but 2 of these selections, IIRC. The dealer wasn't even aware of this and actually took back the car for an investigation to finally determine that it was normal.....so....fuel mileage is compromised in all but those 2 'off' positions. I bring this up only as an FYI that some people might not be aware of this and are unnecessarily running the AC and suffering about a 15% fuel efficiency penalty....
Sorry for being so lengthy....
 

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The plastic ends on the cable that connects from the throttle body to the cruise (servo i think it's called) is known to snap off on some cars. Pop off the plastic throttle body cover (2 plastic push pins) and you will be able to see. Panel and floor modes should not operate the AC.

The vent tube is known to clog on some Taurus transmission...there's a workaround posted in Topic Finder. I know on my car, I have to insert the dipstick, then rotate it to lock the dipstick in the tube. Otherwise it pops back out...
 

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Air Cond

In the ongoing saga of the high idle issue we had with our 2004 Taurus, I'd appreciate some feedback and also post some non related (I think)observations. After replacing the TPS, which didn't resolve the problem, I decided to replace the IAC as most of the reports I read was that the cleaning was usually just a temporary solution, with some mentioning that cleaning would remove a silcon coating thus resulting in a future failure?? . In that light, I picked up a BWD IAC and proceeded with the replacement only to be puzzled by the gasket. When I removed the original IAC, there was no gasket, yet the replacement had one. I called and talked to 2 Ford dealers and spoke with both their service and then their parts departments plus I called back the Pep Boy's store for their clarification. There was some confusion in their parts books but all seemed to believe that it was required and one in particular was pretty adamant about it. Based on that, I installed the IAC with the gasket. Started the car, and the idle now returned to it's normal initial 1300 rpm reducing to sub 1000 which is usually about 700 - 800 rpm after about a minute or so. Happy camper again, but wound up with a couple of issues that I can't explain. The previous day, I had the TPS installed by Pep Boys, and also had them do a normal engine oil change while there. All good until the morning after when I spotted a pool of oil under the car in our garage, immediately checked the engine oil, which was full. Then took a clean rag and wiped the pool to discover it was red. Transmission fluid....opened the hood again and found the transmission dip stick sitting about 4 inches or so out of its full down position. Checked the tranny fluid appeared fine both in quantity and colour. Reseated the dip stick. Returned to Pep Boys just to 'once over' everything, at their request also. Wound up talking to a very Taurus competent mechanic who had listened to me recount the entire situation. He asked about the type of material that the IAC backed on to....black plastic, and indicated that this type usually only had 2 "O" rings around the 2 round orifices on the IAC and doesn't require a paper gasket. He removed the IAC and 'viola', the holes had 2 blue 'O' rings, thus he removed the paper gasket. Then moved on to the tranny fluid issue.....everything normal after the inspection but he had heard and seen this same thing a few times on the Taurus and was at a loss to explain it..and asked if I would pose this question to the forum to see if anyone has an exact explanation. Left after it all checked out, idle was still back to normal......but....on the road, I discovered that the cruise control now didn't work. The green cruise light was on, but it wouldn't hold the required speed, just drifted down like it hadn't even been actioned.....any ideas?
Lastly is an observation, just after we initially bought the car in '04, we noticed that despite what the 8 position air conditioning rotary switch indicates, the compressor is running in all but 2 of these selections, IIRC. The dealer wasn't even aware of this and actually took back the car for an investigation to finally determine that it was normal.....so....fuel mileage is compromised in all but those 2 'off' positions. I bring this up only as an FYI that some people might not be aware of this and are unnecessarily running the AC and suffering about a 15% fuel efficiency penalty....
Sorry for being so lengthy....
By the diagram the AC should have power only on the two on the far right and two on the far left. Vent, Flr/Vnt, and Flr have no power to the A/C clutch cycling pressure switch. And this, the AC load is variable depending on how much work it is doing. The cycling switch keeps it on and off depending on what is going on, and the temp of the outside vs inside also determines how much the compressor pulls when it is engaged. 15% might be the max at really hot outside, really cold inside.

-chart-
 

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IAC is known to cause high idle problems as well as low idle / stall problems.

NEVER take advise from the "techs" at the parts store. While there are exceptions, most of the SALES people (they are not techs) dont know anything about cars, all they know is how to look things up using the computer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Thanks for the replies from Bull Geek, chartmaker and Jeff K, I appreciate them.

Jeff K: I hear you, and that was why I contacted the 2 Ford dealers first but when there was confusion over what their manuals showed for the 2004, I decided to call the place where I purchased the IAC to see if their manual indicated anything different. The irony appears to be that the only person who got it right was the PB's mechanic who heard my story....and he didn't even use a manual. Not one person of the 5 that I spoke to mentioned the possibility of the 2 'O' rings already being in place, and all were surprised by the fact that there had been no gasket there when I removed the old IAC...
Reason I started with changing the TPS was due to most people associating the IAC with low idle or stalling. I did however come across a subsequent article that did say it also caused high idle issues. That was also backed up by the PB mechanic that was very Taurus savy who indicated that it was a relatively common problem on Taurus.

chartmaker: I'm not sure if you are describing the rotary switch positions that we have on our '04 SES. On ours, the AC is off when the selector is in the 11 o'clock plus at the 12 o'clock pos'n, which is the "off'. The 1 o'clock position will run the AC, and is the one we usually use when requiring AC. There might be one more pos'n which doesn't start the AC. Reason why I brought this up was that the switch leads one to believe that the AC runs only in the 2 most counter clockwise positions: AC and Max AC.

Bull Geek: I wonder if those plastic ends that you mention were disconnected when they replaced the TPS the other day? Sounds logical as the green light does illuminate but with no corresponding acc pedal movement. When you say "snap off", do you mean "break"?...or that they can be "resnapped" as in reattached? This is under that black plastic piece with a 90 deg bend with the 2 smooth black plastic buttons on the top?

With reference to the tranny dipstick, ours has a little hood that you can feel when it seats. It doesn't want to twist to lock once fully down. It seems like the tranny belched once in the garage which doesn't make much sense to me. Even if the dipstick was out about 3 - 4 inches, would fluid be expelled out the dipstick tube? That Taurus savy PB mechanic was also very curious about this, as it all checked out and it runs and shifts just fine. I will try a search thru the topic finder as you suggested to see if I can find anything related. My gut feeling is that both the CC and tranny issues were related to the replacement of the TPS. I'm just trying to connect the dots...
Thanks!
 

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That's what I'm curious about. I know a couple of people have reported that the end that snaps over the "ball" has broken off some chunks of plastic so it doesn't really hold/attach well. Yup the cables are under the black plastic piece.
 

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AC

Thanks for the replies from Bull Geek, chartmaker and Jeff K, I appreciate them.

Jeff K: I hear you, and that was why I contacted the 2 Ford dealers first but when there was confusion over what their manuals showed for the 2004, I decided to call the place where I purchased the IAC to see if their manual indicated anything different. The irony appears to be that the only person who got it right was the PB's mechanic who heard my story....and he didn't even use a manual. Not one person of the 5 that I spoke to mentioned the possibility of the 2 'O' rings already being in place, and all were surprised by the fact that there had been no gasket there when I removed the old IAC...
Reason I started with changing the TPS was due to most people associating the IAC with low idle or stalling. I did however come across a subsequent article that did say it also caused high idle issues. That was also backed up by the PB mechanic that was very Taurus savy who indicated that it was a relatively common problem on Taurus.

chartmaker: I'm not sure if you are describing the rotary switch positions that we have on our '04 SES. On ours, the AC is off when the selector is in the 11 o'clock plus at the 12 o'clock pos'n, which is the "off'. The 1 o'clock position will run the AC, and is the one we usually use when requiring AC. There might be one more pos'n which doesn't start the AC. Reason why I brought this up was that the switch leads one to believe that the AC runs only in the 2 most counter clockwise positions: AC and Max AC.

Bull Geek: I wonder if those plastic ends that you mention were disconnected when they replaced the TPS the other day? Sounds logical as the green light does illuminate but with no corresponding acc pedal movement. When you say "snap off", do you mean "break"?...or that they can be "resnapped" as in reattached? This is under that black plastic piece with a 90 deg bend with the 2 smooth black plastic buttons on the top?

With reference to the tranny dipstick, ours has a little hood that you can feel when it seats. It doesn't want to twist to lock once fully down. It seems like the tranny belched once in the garage which doesn't make much sense to me. Even if the dipstick was out about 3 - 4 inches, would fluid be expelled out the dipstick tube? That Taurus savy PB mechanic was also very curious about this, as it all checked out and it runs and shifts just fine. I will try a search thru the topic finder as you suggested to see if I can find anything related. My gut feeling is that both the CC and tranny issues were related to the replacement of the TPS. I'm just trying to connect the dots...
Thanks!
Diagram shows A/C in
MAX
Norm
Def/Flr
Def

That would be the two most CW and the two most CCW.

-chart-
 
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