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Hello,
firstly, thanks a lot guys! you've helped me diagnose a bunch of problems on my Taurus with all the posts.

anyways...

I think I have 2 problems. One is with the brakes. The other day, it seemed as if I had really reduced brake power. I just replaced the LR rotor, as the pads were GONE. I haven't replaced the RR yet. I have noticed that it doesn't seem to be wearing down as well. when I bought it, the braking surface was actually rusted. So, I think I need to bleed the brakes. I think I found the bleeder valve (never done it before). Do those come out like a regular bolt (righty tighty, lefty loosey).
I've also had the problem where the engine decides to rev up even though I'm not pressing the pedal. It also never wants to slow down once I let off the gas. If I get it up to 3000 RPM, when I let off the gas, it drops down to 2500 RPM, then eventually gets back to idle. I tried cleaning out the IAC valve with throttle body cleaner, but it changed nothing. What should I do?

Any help would be greatly appreciated.
 

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If you have the heat on, it will rev up a bit. The compressor cycles on and off and the engine revs up a bit to compensate for it.
 

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The brake bleeder screw is a normal right hand thread, so yes, righty tighty lefty loosey. :) You may also want to pick up some PB Blaster, or penetrating oil of your liking, and squirt the bleeder screws a few times and let it soak before you try cracking them open.

Some tips on bleeding the brakes:

-work from the wheel furthest away (right rear) to the wheel closest to (left front) the master cylinder. So the order would be, RR, LR, RF, LF.

-Be sure to keep an eye on the fluid level in the master and add fluid as needed. If you run out of fluid, you will pump air into the system and make matters worse.

-When bleeding, raise the left rear lower control arm up with a jack so that the bias valve lets the maximum amount of fluid through.

-Have an assistant in the car (I find making the kids do it results in personal satisfaction for providing years of free room and board :) ). Have them pump the pedal three or four times and hold it. Then, crack the screw open until they tell you the pedal is to the floor. Then close the screw and repeat until the fluid runs clear, without any air bubbles. I've found that a length of clear tubing (3/16 ID) run into a bottle works great. I've used small spring water bottles, with a hole drilled in the cap for the hose to stick through. I usually put a little bit of brake fluid in the bottle before bleeding, and stick the end of the tube in the fluid so I can see if there's air bubbles or not. Put the other end of the tubing on the bleeder screw, and you're good to go with no messes on the floor.

For the idle issue, I don't think I've ever seen ANY car that bumps the idle up to 2500 for the AC being on. :lol:

You said you've cleaned the IAC, perhaps it's beyond the point of cleaning though. Or there could be a vacuum leak somewhere. Did you install a new gasket when you cleaned the IAC?

*edit*

Also, on the rear brakes, make sure the slider pins are free and slide in and out easily. If they're not, it will cause uneven wear on the brake pads. It sounded like this is what you were stating was a problem with the RR. Sometimes the pins can be removed, cleaned off, and their bores in the caliper bracket cleaned out. Regrease them, reinstall and you should be OK. Or, to save some time and aggravation, Autozone and Advance Auto (and I'm sure many others) have rear caliper brackets in stock for around $20.
 

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For the idle issue, I don't think I've ever seen ANY car that bumps the idle up to 2500 for the AC being on. :lol:
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He never said it bumped up to 2500 on it's own. He just said that when he gets off the gas, it drops to 2500 then hangs before it settles.

He never gave an RPM when he said it revs on it's own.
 
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