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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have done the digging, and have read and copied multiple articles and posts on the "quick" method of heater core replacement.

I have an 05 SE bull w/ a vulcan.

I'm hoping for some help from those who have done this on a Gen 4 Taurus.


My questions are:
  1. Do I just need to remove all of the trim and stuff below the radio, or are there other dash panels that must be pulled? The trim panel below the steering column, for example, looks like it would need to be removed to raise the dash up/out.
  2. One write up, for a gen-3, I think, shows disassembly and removal of the steering wheel. Is this necessary?
  3. Once the dash bolts (top and side) are out, the write-ups say to tilt / pull up on the dash to get just enough clearance to pull and replace the core (2 person job). But it looks like the shift lever on the steering column and/or the window posts above the dash will be in the way. Advice /guidance?
I'm planning to do this job this Friday or Saturday. any specifics from someone who has done this on a Gen-4 would really be appreciated.

Thanks
 

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Google: heater core shortcut video on youtube. For another good tutorial, google: macs-airsept and click on the first pdf and scroll down to heater core repair tips.
 

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Answers in red below.

I have done the digging, and have read and copied multiple articles and posts on the "quick" method of heater core replacement.

I have an 05 SE bull w/ a vulcan.

I'm hoping for some help from those who have done this on a Gen 4 Taurus.


My questions are:
  1. Do I just need to remove all of the trim and stuff below the radio, or are there other dash panels that must be pulled? The trim panel below the steering column, for example, looks like it would need to be removed to raise the dash up/out. Remove the trim panel below the steering column and remove the bolts holding the steering column. Allow the column to drop slightly. It was easier for me with the radio removed.
  2. One write up, for a gen-3, I think, shows disassembly and removal of the steering wheel. Is this necessary? No removal or disassembly of the steering wheel is necessary.
  3. Once the dash bolts (top and side) are out, the write-ups say to tilt / pull up on the dash to get just enough clearance to pull and replace the core (2 person job). But it looks like the shift lever on the steering column and/or the window posts above the dash will be in the way. Advice /guidance? You dont have to move it very far. Pull aft and tilt up just enough to allow the heater core to slide out.
I'm planning to do this job this Friday or Saturday. any specifics from someone who has done this on a Gen-4 would really be appreciated. I did a write up on here (that I removed due to site issues) when I did the heater core on my '02. It only took me a little over an hour with the help of my son to move the dash.

Thanks
 

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I did not remove anything of the steering column, or radio. Just loosen the dash. I did remove the upper intake to gain easy access to the heater hoses. Pulling the dashing forward is easier with a helper, but can be done alone as well. It did not take me very long either. 1-1.5 hours from start to finish, and I can probably do it faster now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks rdh2. That is just the info I was looking for.

Is there anything special I need to know about pulling the radio? The macs-airsept write-up (thanks sheila; had that one already) said it wasn't necessary, but they are doing it for $ so they don't want to take the time if they don't have to. (btw - very nice $ haul on a job w/ a book rate of 8 hours)

Now I just need warmer weather. I do not have a great deal of desire to do this in ~5 deg F temps.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
I did not remove anything of the steering column, or radio. Just loosen the dash. It did not take me very long either. 1-1.5 hours from start to finish, and I can probably do it faster now.
What year is your ford N-man?

(probably took extra time w/ one hand in your coat)
 

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May I ask a question here please...;)
I need to do this on an 01 too. My only worry is getting the heater hoses off the core on the engine side of the fire wall. I have had to remove them on other cars before and I just had to give up and cut them. any suggestions? or special tools? thanks sooooooooooooo much!
 

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Many on here have used what pliers they had available. Iirc, i used long 45-90 degree bent needle nose pliers. There is a pricey special tool mentioned on a past thread here, but i dont remember which.
 

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I've done a ton of these...

Getting the hoses off the heater can be a pain, it's good to have a right angle pick to break it loose from any crap keeping it stuck to the metal. Just get the pick in between them without poking through the hose work around the circle. If you still can't turn the hose by hand to work it off, try a pair of pliers to turn it and break free, being careful not rip to the hose. I think I may have even used a pry bar to pull it off since there isnt much room back there.

Why do people keep mentioning the radio? There's no need to touch the radio. That is all.
 

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If a hose has been on a heater core pipe, or whatever, for (10) years or more, it will probably need to be cut to free it up.

To avoid this problem again in the future, I always put a thin coat of silicone sealer around the outside of the heater core pipes, or whatever coolant pipe I'm working on, (being careful not to get any inside the pipe), then slip the new hose on and clamp it.

I then let it dry for an hour or more before adding the coolant and running the engine.

When it comes time to remove hoses assembled like this, it's quite easy to get off.
 

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If you have to cut the hose ends loose to get them off, just make a cut through the hose where it meets the metal, in line with the hose direction, and it will pop right off. You can buy 90 degree molded elbow replacements for cheap, if the metal piping is still OK. Use screw type hose clamps on your replacement pieces. Believe it or not, I use Never-Seize like the above mentioned silicone, it's inert and never dries up. Works great and I've never had a leak.
 

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Not too Bad

watched the short-cut video, fantastic. Saved a bunch of money, the hoses were a pain and i didnt replace mine, i used a hose removal tool that didnt damage them. Still took 1hr to get tem off, also had to remove the nuts/mounting supports of the hard tubing attached to the firewall.
The only real problem was the small plastic parts of the ducting/doors. Accidently broke a couple of those fragile pieces when removing the core, used plastic epoxy on one and the other i used a small nut (steel) to retain the flat-steel-rod-deal on the lower lever stud (plastic). Got lucky i guess...hope that thing keeps going...i dang sure cant afford another car right now...
 

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If a hose has been on a heater core pipe, or whatever, for (10) years or more, it will probably need to be cut to free it up.

To avoid this problem again in the future, I always put a thin coat of silicone sealer around the outside of the heater core pipes, or whatever coolant pipe I'm working on, (being careful not to get any inside the pipe), then slip the new hose on and clamp it.

I then let it dry for an hour or more before adding the coolant and running the engine.

When it comes time to remove hoses assembled like this, it's quite easy to get off.
BEST. ADVICE. EVER.

Totally gonna do this when I get around to replacing the ice box, I mean heater core. -_-
 
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