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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Greetings!

Watched a bunch of youtube on this. Was successful in opening a hatch to the fuel pump through the back seat. This is a project I have been putting off. (see photo).

I understand the process and have the new pump to replace in the sending unit. My issue is the two electrical lines to the pump. There is not enough slack to ease out the pump and I cant see where I would disconnect the connectors? I'm guessing I must jack it up and access the plugs from underneath?

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks

Max

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
UPDATE: I was anble to finf the Passanger side connector by the fuel filter. Still have to figure out how to release it. So, could use advice regarding the cable going to the rear. Thanks.
 

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Different year Taurus. Not sure how you can get that connector to the EVAP valve but looks like similar wiring.at the pump as yours. Maybe cut the pump wires and solder the new pump wires once replaced. Maybe undo the black plastic cover.
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Different car, different engineers, but my 2010 Subaru has an opening that is secured with a cover expressly for fuel pump replacement under the back seat. I have dropped the tank for fuel pump replacement on a 2000 Vulcan. It was a real PIA, took me about 2 1/2 hours. Eric the car guy has pretty good video on this procedure. I know this can be done, to me creating the access seemed to be the most difficult part. After feeling good about the design of the Subaru fuel pump, the fuel filter is an integral part of the fuel pump, that seems like a step backward. Good luck, be careful with all the rusty, old fasteners.

Scott
 

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Different car, different engineers, but my 2010 Subaru has an opening that is secured with a cover expressly for fuel pump replacement under the back seat. I have dropped the tank for fuel pump replacement on a 2000 Vulcan. It was a real PIA, took me about 2 1/2 hours. Eric the car guy has pretty good video on this procedure. I know this can be done, to me creating the access seemed to be the most difficult part. After feeling good about the design of the Subaru fuel pump, the fuel filter is an integral part of the fuel pump, that seems like a step backward. Good luck, be careful with all the rusty, old fasteners.

Scott
This is the new trend. Pic of my Buick Lucerne. Ultra easy access under the hood. Once and a while GM gets it right. On the other hand, G-4 Bulls head light bulbs, very easy. Buick, "act of congress".
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
UPDATE:

In case this helps others. I unwrapped the loom wrap covering the wires. I only disconnected the forward connector located under the rear passenger side, next to the fuel filter. I could not get to the rear connector. This gave me enough slack to replace the pump.

Tip,

I tied a string to the connector so i could more easily snake the connector back in place. There is no extra slack to reconnect otherwise.

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This looks just like my 96 LX, I bought a Harbor Freight pneumatic nibbler and measured about where the pump was. Carefully drilled a hole and using the nibbler cut an access hole then cut another slice to make it a bit larger. Using a screwdriver I tapped the locking ring to remove it. When removed the pump cover lifted up and the wire to the pump has a connector inside. Easy Peasy. Replace the filter to the new pump. Push in the new pump connector. I believe you get a new gasket for the cover. Use it. Tap in the lock ring. Now turn on the ignition, You Don't need to start the car. You should hear the pump running. If not you will need to troubleshoot.

Then go to Lowe's and get some galvanized sheet metal large enough for the hole you cut, and get a pop rivet gun from HF. Position the tin over the hole. Drill several holes and use a few rivets without setting them to hold the metal in place while you drill the balance of the holes. Caulk the steel around the perimeter and rivet holes. Clean the surface well before placing the steel over the holes. Align the holes and start placing all the rivet in the holes.

When all the rivets are placed, pop the rivets. Wipe up the oozed caulk replace the seat and you are done
 

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This looks just like my 96 LX, I bought a Harbor Freight pneumatic nibbler and measured about where the pump was. Carefully drilled a hole and using the nibbler cut an access hole then cut another slice to make it a bit larger. Using a screwdriver I tapped the locking ring to remove it. When removed the pump cover lifted up and the wire to the pump has a connector inside. Easy Peasy. Replace the filter to the new pump. Push in the new pump connector. I believe you get a new gasket for the cover. Use it. Tap in the lock ring. Now turn on the ignition, You Don't need to start the car. You should hear the pump running. If not you will need to troubleshoot.

Then go to Lowe's and get some galvanized sheet metal large enough for the hole you cut, and get a pop rivet gun from HF. Position the tin over the hole. Drill several holes and use a few rivets without setting them to hold the metal in place while you drill the balance of the holes. Caulk the steel around the perimeter and rivet holes. Clean the surface well before placing the steel over the holes. Align the holes and start placing all the rivet in the holes.

When all the rivets are placed, pop the rivets. Wipe up the oozed caulk replace the seat and you are done
This sounds easier than dropping the tank to me.
 
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