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I don't know that it got hydrolocked. She said the water only got up to the floorboards. The CAI is under the spash shield (depends on how far down it is). If it was high enough above the floorboard line then things probably just got really wet without sucking too much water into the engine. I'm being optimistic hoping that the engine internals are ok.

I don't know what it has been lately with the bulls. It's some devine consipracy or something.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
the clicking noise was coming from it seems like in the back of the engine. maybe under the valve covers or something. not sure. and i don't think that i had a bypass valve. i bought the CAI from mykej27 and installed it. not sure it has one or not. probably not. so what should i do before i take the car in?
 

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Is there water in the oil? Water in the oil can cause the lifters not to pump up (or stay pumped up under pressure).

I don't know what else you could do before taking it in. Is it coming from the drivers or passenger side of the engine? You could have gotten water in one of the accessories (I don't know where the alternator, etc.. is on the Vulcan). If you have a stethescope you can poke around the valve cover and block with that. Keep moving it around until the sound is the loudest. I used to have a mechanics stethescope that had a long metal stick on the end just for these situations. Just be careful around the passenger side. Wouldn't want you to get caught in the belt (I've many close calls. DOH!).

I hope this works out ok for you.
 

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I don't think that the vulcan has hydraulic lifters stock.

Do what everyone has been saying. Pull the plugs, let the engine dry out. change the oil. Your CAI goes pretty deep in the fender, right?

I hope you don't need to go anywhere until sunday.
 

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Discussion Starter · #26 ·
i'd rather not take it in at all. if it can be fixed by me or someone. don't have the money. but, i did use a long wooden pole to see where it was coming the loudest from. couldn't really tell. it was more towards the back though. and its coming from the passenger side of the car. i checked to see if there was water in the oil, but i really couldn't tell.
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
Originally posted by silvapain@May 21 2004, 04:51 PM
I don't think that the vulcan has hydraulic lifters stock.

Do what everyone has been saying. Pull the plugs, let the engine dry out. change the oil. Your CAI goes pretty deep in the fender, right?

I hope you don't need to go anywhere until sunday.
if i pull the plugs, do they have to be replaced? or can i put them back in? yeah, my CAI goes all the way down the fender. its resting on the ledge of the side panel. you can feel it just sticking your hand an inch up the side of my car. and the hubbie has to work tommorrow. but i guess he can't. and just today while the ole' man was at work, i took both the coil packs off the old ranger my dad gave us, cause its been stalling all the time, so we couldn't drive it. so we could go get new ones today. his friend just came and picked him up so they could get some new ones. so hopefully i can get that running tonight.
 

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OK, since it's one of myke's CAIs, I don't think you hydrolocked your engine, b/c the intake wouldn't be low enough... unless hubby is lying and he went fast enough to splash a ton of water up OVER the engine.
***edit*** just realized that the intake does suck up from the bottom of the fender.

Did you say that water was coming OUT of the CAI? If you pull the air filter off, is it just damp inside the intake, or are there puddles of water?

The Vulcan definitely has hydraulic lifters. Just about every pushrod engine since 1965 has hydraulic lifters.
 

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You can use the old plugs. Just be careful to not damage the porcelain when taking them out. as long as you don't yank on the socket too much, you should be fine.

What year ranger is it? Did you say it had one, or two coil packs. The rangers have the same vulcan in them the we have, so if it's the 3.0L v6 of a similar year, the coil pack will swap with the taurus. It would be a temporary fix until you buy a new one.
 

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It would be pretty noticable if you did have water in there. It should look like a Starbucks cappucino. Pull the oil cap off and look inside the valve cover. Wipe your finger under the cover too. It tends to collect on the cap too.

I was just wondering if it was more towards the front (belt side) or rear (trans side) of the engine itself. I was also wondering if maybe the alternator got really soaked or an accessory got a twig or something else in it. On the Duratec the alternator is close to the firewall almost as low as the crankshaft pully. I don't know where it is on the Vulcan.

At idle, is the clicking like twice per second, faster or slower?
 

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Originally posted by SixFoFalcon@May 21 2004, 03:58 PM
The Vulcan definitely has hydraulic lifters. Just about every pushrod engine since 1965 has hydraulic lifters.
According to the Haynes manual, they are roller lifters.
 

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Originally posted by silvapain+May 21 2004, 05:06 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (silvapain @ May 21 2004, 05:06 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-SixFoFalcon@May 21 2004, 03:58 PM
The Vulcan definitely has hydraulic lifters.  Just about every pushrod engine since 1965 has hydraulic lifters.
According to the Haynes manual, they are roller lifters. [/b][/quote]
Most likely hydraulic rollers then. My 89' Escort GT had hydraulic roller lifters. They would have to be hydraulic to keep the noise down and increase reliability.
 

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Discussion Starter · #33 ·
Originally posted by silvapain@May 21 2004, 05:02 PM
You can use the old plugs. Just be careful to not damage the porcelain when taking them out. as long as you don't yank on the socket too much, you should be fine.

What year ranger is it? Did you say it had one, or two coil packs. The rangers have the same vulcan in them the we have, so if it's the 3.0L v6 of a similar year, the coil pack will swap with the taurus. It would be a temporary fix until you buy a new one.
its a 91. has 2 coil packs, but its a 4 cylinder not a v6.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
Originally posted by NateNBeckie@May 21 2004, 05:04 PM
It would be pretty noticable if you did have water in there. It should look like a Starbucks cappucino. Pull the oil cap off and look inside the valve cover. Wipe your finger under the cover too. It tends to collect on the cap too.

I was just wondering if it was more towards the front (belt side) or rear (trans side) of the engine itself. I was also wondering if maybe the alternator got really soaked or an accessory got a twig or something else in it. On the Duratec the alternator is close to the firewall almost as low as the crankshaft pully. I don't know where it is on the Vulcan.

At idle, is the clicking like twice per second, faster or slower?
i took the oil cap off and its kinda whitish and bubbly looking around the edges and under the cap. and its clicking like twice per second really fast.
 

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Originally posted by silvapain+May 21 2004, 05:06 PM--><table border='0' align='center' width='95%' cellpadding='3' cellspacing='1'><tr><td>QUOTE (silvapain @ May 21 2004, 05:06 PM)</td></tr><tr><td id='QUOTE'> <!--QuoteBegin-SixFoFalcon@May 21 2004, 03:58 PM
The Vulcan definitely has hydraulic lifters.  Just about every pushrod engine since 1965 has hydraulic lifters.
According to the Haynes manual, they are roller lifters. [/b][/quote]
Gen 3-Current Vulcans use hydraulic roller lifters. Like SixFo said all pushrod engines use hydraulic lifters because it eliminates the need to lash the valves.
 

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still need me to try and fix it sarah? and here's what you need to do, first off remove the maf and intake and let them both dry completely. Then remove the spark plug wires and plugs and let them dry as well. Then plug the open spark plug holes with a towle or something to prevent dirt from entering the engine. Then if you have acces to an air gun blow out the cylinders through the plug holes...if not then let air dry. Then change the oil and filter. After that take a look at the engine bay and the electronics and see if there all dry and connected. You will also need a filter recharge kit for your cone filter which u can borrow from me. Then after everything is dry reinstall the plugs, wires, maf and STOCK intake. If it still runs rough or throws a check engine light then something isn't right. Then we should go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Originally posted by Tman@May 21 2004, 07:08 PM
still need me to try and fix it sarah? and here's what you need to do, first off remove the maf and intake and let them both dry completely. Then remove the spark plug wires and plugs and let them dry as well. Then plug the open spark plug holes with a towle or something to prevent dirt from entering the engine. Then if you have acces to an air gun blow out the cylinders through the plug holes...if not then let air dry. Then change the oil and filter. After that take a look at the engine bay and the electronics and see if there all dry and connected. You will also need a filter recharge kit for your cone filter which u can borrow from me. Then after everything is dry reinstall the plugs, wires, maf and STOCK intake. If it still runs rough or throws a check engine light then something isn't right. Then we should go from there.
i don't know how anything is gonna dry with all these storms this weekend. expecially since my brothers truck is in the garage and he lost the keys to it, so i can't push it out. but, i'll do all that. i don't have access to a air gun. dan might have one at work, but he can't bring it home. i asked him if you could help me fix it, and he said yeah right. he's an idiot. anyway, why should i put the stock air box back on? cause, i don't remember where i put it. i think i had it at my parents house and my brother threw it away.
 

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just so you could start the car with a dry air box and filter. just pull out all those parts and put them in your garage and they should dry quickly. oil change is the most important thing right now. Also did the ce light come on at all when the car was running?? if so take it to autozone after you change the oil and have them check the codes. And i figured dan would say that, what is his suggestion/plan?
 

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It doesn't sound hydrolocked to me. I would guess you need to dry out as much as anything. To be on the safe side change the oil, its cheap enough. You can use a hairdryer to dry the plugs, wires or anywhere else you would have used a compressor hose. Tman has pretty much covered it.
 
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