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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car is a 2003 Centennial Taurus with a Duratec. Mileage is currently just over 160k.

So it finally started cooling off here and as such I had reason to use my heater. Or so I thought. Seems that the Taurus had other ideas as all I got was cool air, didn't do much good for my defrosting or cold morning drive needs.

I didn't have any issues with the engine running temp, it was always consistent as it had been during the previous year right in the middle of the normal range.

So I thought maybe the heater core had become gunked up. I hooked a couple of hose repair kits to the in and out hoses, flushed each way (though I never could find the supposed 'bypass' line to cinch). Some bits of rust and stuff came out but nothing too gunky and although I don't know the service history of the coolant since prior to my ownership over the last year and half, the coolant look relatively clean still had a green tint. Even hooked up a shop vac and pulsed some air in ala the well named Clinton flush. Still clear water coming out.

Well after this flush, I got some heat back (nothing like I remember it though), but it would take forever to get to a heated temp and now I had running temp issues. It was fine at interstate speeds but once below 40 it would begin to cycle up toward the hot side then dropping rapidly down below normal.

So now I'm thinking maybe my thermostat has gone out but I don't know if that is the original cause of my cabin heat issues. In any case I replaced the thermostat, car now runs at nice normal operating temp again, and gets up to temp like normal. The heat still feels week though but is at least there now.

Do I just have inflated memories of my heat last year or is there something else I should try before it gets too cold to work on the car?
 

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You may have introduced some air into the system. Try letting the engine cool, open the radiator, start the engine and add coolant as it warms up. If you have any bleed fittings on the system, use them carefully. Are you sure the blend door motor is working for the cabin heat?
 

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In my experience, not just Taurus' but when the temp climbs then drops suddenly it usually means air got in the system. The thermostat opens allowing cooled water from the radiator to rush through the engine causing the drop in temperature. Under normal circumstances the air will bleed out if the expansion reservoir has the proper amount of coolant, but some vehicles have an air bleed valve placed at the highest point so you can let air escape, essentially burping the engine.

It may be a good time to flush the system like crazy.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
You may have introduced some air into the system. Try letting the engine cool, open the radiator, start the engine and add coolant as it warms up. If you have any bleed fittings on the system, use them carefully. Are you sure the blend door motor is working for the cabin heat?
I believe I can hear the blend door motor working if I stick my head under the dash and click the temp up and down (it is an automatic climate control car). Then again, I can honestly say I never listened to it when it was working so I can't say for sure if it sounds the same.

As for air in the system. Someone with more knowledge of the Duratec may be able to help better, I'm more used to the Vulcan still which had a radiator cap. As far as I can tell, this one does not, the 'overflow' tank is a pressurized tank and the radiator is a closed system, so how else can I bleed out the air?


See topic: Clinton Heater Flush
:rolleyes:

I hate to be an ass, but did you even read my post?
 

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If you sort out the air in the system so it's back to normal temp and you feel hot water on both hoses giong to heater core, the only possibility you have left is the blend door. Just because you hear it doesn't mean its working properly. Sometimes they run constantly, sometimes the gears break and it doesn't actually move the door. It's mostly plastic so they can break easily. You will almost certainly ned to see it and make sure door moves freely without it.
 

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Tecs dont have the bypass hose. Coolant tank should expel any air, hence the name degasser tank. You dont have a bleeder valve. If you pull the radio with din keys, you can observe the blend door actuator easily.
 

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Tecs dont have the bypass hose. Coolant tank should expel any air, hence the name degasser tank. You dont have a bleeder valve. If you pull the radio with din keys, you can observe the blend door actuator easily.
:werd:

BTW Hey Lithy!

You should run an EATC diagnostic test to see if it's throwing out any codes.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
You can always try replacing the heater core if you feel up to it.
Yeah I'm thinking this may go on the Spring to do list if I get everything else sorted out and I'm still getting weak heat.

Tecs dont have the bypass hose. Coolant tank should expel any air, hence the name degasser tank. You dont have a bleeder valve. If you pull the radio with din keys, you can observe the blend door actuator easily.
Thanks, I think the blend door is the next thing on my list. It seems like the consensus may be I just didn't top up enough after doing the heater core flush and that was causing my temp problems. So I guess the thermostat may or may not have been made but for 25 bucks I can at least cross it off the list.

Now to find those stupid din keys...

:werd:

BTW Hey Lithy!

You should run an EATC diagnostic test to see if it's throwing out any codes.
I actually did this as part of my troubleshooting and thanks to a previous thread of yours I now know that my auto lights are not Daytime Running Lamps...so I have a new sunlight sensor also on my "needs fixed" list. Code 051 or whatever it was.

Thanks for all the help guys, I'll update if I get anywhere with this.
 

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Dude those DIN keys are $5 at WalMart in the Automobile area. And you get Euro DIN keys in the same box.

someone said the issue with the sunload sensor is actually cold soldier joints...if you're handy with a soldier gun, easy fix.

Good luck man!
 
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