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Help Me... Car Running Bad! :-(

1418 Views 13 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  deniz
Ok...

I wanted to change my plugs and clean my secondaries and throttle body....

I remeoved all sensors off the intake.
I took everything off the throrttle body

When I removed the green and red emissions lines, they snapped, So I bought new lines and installed them.

Spark Plugs are Autolite Double Platnum.

I had the car diagnosed and the only error was the Throtte Position Sensor, they erased it...I drove the car and it still ran for s***.

When I rev the engine, or when I am driving the engine pulsated very fast....and I can barley go 35-40mph with it floored. However it idles perfect. Could it be the TPS? Or does it sound like an EGR leak.....I would think if it was the EGR or a Misfire a code woulda popped up....

Help me pleeeaaaaaaaseeeeeeeee
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Hmm sounds like you didn't plug something back in? Also check and make sure that all of your plugs are firmly plugged back in, and that all the wires are in the correct location.
Everything is plugged in..I'm pretty sure all the lines are in the same place. All the spark plug wires are in the right place...

I give up
I would say... repeat the process.. and when you put stuff back on make sure that you double check everything...

I had a TPS go bad.. it set a code.. but the car was running fine ( oh my 96 GL) except for little jerks in the trans shifts... which went away after I changed the TPS...
G
Excessive vacuum leaks should cause the car to throw lean codes on both banks, but it never hurts to check for leaks anyhow. I use carb cleaner spray (or whatever you used to clean the intake). If there's a vacuum leak, the rpm's will rise slightly when you spray it with the cleaner.

Did you take off the TPS when you disassembled everything? If so, did you make sure to set it once you re installed it? It should be about 1v at closed throttle, and about 5v at wide open throttle. Check it with the key on, engine off, with a voltmeter. You can stick the probe through the back of the connector.

Also, did you happen to write down the code number for the TPS? There's more than one.
I took the tps off the throttle body, the code was 0122... which was the low end range (whatever that means) . I'm gonna run to the salvage yard tomorrow and grab a TPS, as well as an egr...and all that good happy stuff just to be safe. I did all this hoping to get above my 15mpg mark... *sigh*

For now I have my grandma's '98 vulcan, which i like to drive because the steerings more responsive... on the other hand its noticably slower...and I think my '93 woulda owned it.

Anyways thanks for the help...I'll check the voltages in the morning and post what I get.
Eh... which wires on the TPS am I probing? ...the Haynes manual just tells me to look at the wire diagram and that dont do s*** for me...
G
I checked the code, and it looks like it's either adjusted incorrectly, or defective. Let us know how you make out!
ok...probing around I got 5 volts steady...and then a 3.48 volts almost steady...voltages didnt change when i moved the throttle.

I got the same readings when the TPS was hooked up and unhooked. I pulled tubes while the car was running and I am getting good suction threw them...
3
I just remembered I dropped the TPS when working on the throttle body....maybe i just murdered the littke $40 1 inch cube pos
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G
I can't remember which wires are which, but there's a ground, constant 5v signal, and the actual output signal from the TPS, which is the one that will fluctuate from about 1v-5v when operating the throttle.

If you do not get the fluctuating voltage on one of the leads, it's either misadjusted, or defective. To adjust it, if it is adjustable, loosen the screws, leave the volt meter connected, and move the TPS until you have about 1v at closed throttle. Tighten the screws, then recheck closed and open throttle. If it's still not right, replace the TPS.
IIRC, the gen the tps is not adj.

and IIRC, when I had my TPS checked.. the voltage at closed throttle was around .5 volts.. or so..
this was after I put in the new TPS. and the code was fixed...
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If replacing the TPS doesn't work, check the basics.
You mentioned that you replaced the plugs. Did you gap them properly? Also, when screwing them in did you use a lot of force? I once had a similar problem after installing new plugs. The engine barely ran and sounded like a tractor. Turned out that I had meant too well and overtightened 2 plugs causing the ceramic insulators to break. The cracks in the insulators were tiny and only visible after removing the plugs and carefully inspecting them.
Just some ideas.
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