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Discussion Starter #1
I started working on the SHO today to start replacing the alternator when I saw that where the battery cables connect with the connector to secure it on the battery was bad. There are peices of cable wire poking out and they look rusted. I'm not sure if I should replace all the battery cables now, or if I should just replace the actual connector? I'm not sure how to go about replacing the battery cables (I'm sure its pretty straightforward though - find where the cables lead and replace).

I've been searching and it looks like most of you guys perfer a 4ga wire, is this correct? During the summer I would like to work on upgrading my '97's cables since the connector on that has been eaten through by a battery failure.

A friend of mine recently got a neat looking battery cable connector from Autozone where you dont need to use tools to take the connector off, just unscrew a handle and you can take it off, however I can't find it anywhere on their website.

Any help would be appreciated. (I'm sick of this cold weather... Both the 92 and 97 are still down and since its cold it's hell trying to get me out there to fix them!)

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Definitely replace those. You can make your own, but it's a pain in the ass with such heavy gauge wire. The Autozone replacements are cheap and are relatively plug and play.

On the Gen III (I would think the Gen I/II would be similar), there is one wire that runs from the positive battery post to the terminal on the end of the Megafuse box in the engine compartment. The wire that runs from the negative post simply goes to a couple of grounds. Replacing the wire is as simple as removing the old wire from the positive post, tracing it to where it goes (Megafuse), and unscrewing it from there. Find a similarly sized wire (I'd recommend 4 gauge for that short a run) at Autozone (if you're using pre-made cables) or Home Depot (if you're making your own) and replace it.

JR
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Definitely replace those. You can make your own, but it's a pain in the ass with such heavy gauge wire. The Autozone replacements are cheap and are relatively plug and play.

JR
[/b]
Should I cut off the rusted peices of cable wire in the process and get some "fresh" peice from the cable?


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Discussion Starter #4
Ok, so I just bought a new connector.. I guess that's the first step. A nifty little quick connect battery terminal I found at AZ for $5.99


Now the question still stands - should I clip off that rusted part of wire and get some "fresh" stuff in the new connector?

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OK. I'm going to say that the cable is fine except for the ends. You should be able to cut the corroded part off and then expose some shiny new wire to feed into the new connectors. Hopefully there is enough slack in the cable to work with.
 

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Ashley, rebuild the entire cable harness, trust me.

The harness runs from the battery directly to the starter. Pull the whole thing, open it up and separate and measure the two wires. Go to AutoZone, and by the 2ga replacements in the appropriate lengths, I got a 48" positive wire and a 56" negative wire for my car.

I wrapped the new 2ga AutoZone replacement cables in the factory loom, and wrapped it all up with grip tape. The positive wire was wrapped with red electrical tape. Compared to the factory wires, the 2ga are ginormous, but it'll get the job done.





 

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Why would you need the 56" ground? :dunno: I'd run it as short as possible (less than 12") and upgrade the other grounds. (Engine to ground, alt to ground)
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ashley, rebuild the entire cable harness, trust me.

The harness runs from the battery directly to the starter. Pull the whole thing, open it up and separate and measure the two wires. Go to AutoZone, and by the 2ga replacements in the appropriate lengths, I got a 48" positive wire and a 56" negative wire for my car.

I wrapped the new 2ga AutoZone replacement cables in the factory loom, and wrapped it all up with grip tape. The positive wire was wrapped with red electrical tape. Compared to the factory wires, the 2ga are ginormous, but it'll get the job done.

[/b]
Ok, so 2ga wire should be good then? I've never dealt with replacing cables, so bear with me here please. So both the negative and positive cables run in to the starter, located at the bottom of the engine then, right? Should I also upgrade the battery running to the alternator? I've seen on my G3 that the negative cable also runs to a "MegaAMP" box located on the front of the vehicle... I didn't pay attention on the SHO this afternoon, but does it run the same for the G2, and should I replace that as well? And one more question, while I'm thinking of it - how do I go about putting the terminals back onto the new cables? Do I need to crimp anything?

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Ashley, rebuild the entire cable harness, trust me.

The harness runs from the battery directly to the starter. Pull the whole thing, open it up and separate and measure the two wires. Go to AutoZone, and by the 2ga replacements in the appropriate lengths, I got a 48" positive wire and a 56" negative wire for my car.

I wrapped the new 2ga AutoZone replacement cables in the factory loom, and wrapped it all up with grip tape. The positive wire was wrapped with red electrical tape. Compared to the factory wires, the 2ga are ginormous, but it'll get the job done.






[/b]

I'll back up what Hamal said. When I got my 93 one of its' problems was battery cables that were too small of a guage, and ****** connectors. I got the same cables from AZ that Hamal did, and performed the same fix. Haven't had a problem since. This is one of the many areas that the SHO is really finicky about, better safe than sorry.



Why would you need the 56" ground? :dunno: I'd run it as short as possible (less than 12") and upgrade the other grounds. (Engine to ground, alt to ground)
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Because the ground cable on the V6 SHO is about 52", the 56 is the closest to it. Next one down is 48" IIRC which is too short.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Ash, I have a complete trunk battery relocation kit that I might have for sale, with an aluminum sealed battery box and wiring...

JR
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Thanks for the offer JR, but I'd rather leave the battery in the front of the car... I don't have a key to the trunk and the remote trunk release inside the car is broken so I'd have no way of accessing it. Why not use it for your g4???

Anyway, thank you guys for all your input... I will try and trace the cables to where they reside and replace them. Another project for a nicer day :)

I did a search for grip tape, but all that comes up is skateboarding tape. Is this what grip tape is? Is it available at AZ as well?

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I believe "grip tape" is sort of like vinyl electrical tape, but it has a different backing on the nonstick side, which helps it bond to itself?

But i could be wrong.
 

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On the MTX SHOs the cables are like this or should be.

Positive

Alternator to starter. Starter to underhood fuse box with a 100A inline fuse (or whatever the alternator output is), factory is two POS fuse links. Starter to battery. There is also a smaller wire that feeds the PCM IIRC.

Negative

Battery to starter mount bolt.
 

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Thank you for all the info, guys. I think I'll have to start working on that next week after I get paid.

While I have the battery tray out, I might as well try to remove some of the rust on it and repaint too... Haha.
[/b]
It also doesn't hurt to pick up some new wrenches if you don't already have a nice set. i got me some Duralast wrenches when i got my Negative lead for my Taurus. Next up the positive lead :)

When you get the new lead kit, make sure that the aux ground for the headlights is big enough. Mine barely fit. :noes:

Dont forget to use some battery post cleaner, then sealer before you put the new leads on, and then for good measure spray some on the metal contact. I have done this and no longer have any corrosion problems. :thumb:
 
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