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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
99 Taurus w/ 3.0 'tec 165k

Here are the DTCs p0135 p0136 p0141 p0401 p0156 p1131 p1132 p0301 p0302 p0303 p0174

Where the hell do I start? The car runs fine cold, but then it misses and surges. I also notice a bad stench from the car and it looks like smoke/ steam from under the car. It looks like the codes are mostly o2 codes, but I can image they all are bad. Any help? Crusher? Demo Derby? Repair?

Thanks
 

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Well let's list them all out first:

P0135 - O2 heater circuit malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0136 - O2 circuit malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0141 - O2 heater circuit malfunction Bank 1 Sensor 2
P0401 - EGR insufficient flow detected
P0156 - O2 heater circuit malfunction Bank 2 Sensor 2
P1131 - Lack of switches upstream oxygen sensor - stuck lean Bank 1
P1132 - Lack of switches upstream oxygen sensor - stuck rich Bank 1
P0301 - Misfire cylinder # 1
P0302 - Misfire cylinder # 2
P0303 - Misfire cylinder # 3
P0174 - System Too Lean Bank 2

Hard to say if it is just one item causing it all. Given the misfires I would go ahead and replace the plugs and given the obvious oxygen sensor failures I would go ahead and replace all four (Even though only three have reported failures, but Ford's margin of operation before failure is so large, and given today's gas prices, you need an accurate, functional oxygen sensor). Looks like the DPFE may have failed as well (The EGR code).

However there is an issue of a vacuum leak (System Too Lean Bank 2). The one still working oxygen sensor is measuring more air coming out than the MAF measured going in, so there is a leak somewhere sucking in extra air. Cracked exhaust manifolds can also cause this condition.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
One mechanic seems to think my coverter is plugged for bank 1. If I remove the converter and replace w/ a pipe, will the car run ok in theory? He says I can drill holes in the converter as a cobble fix. Sounds like BS to me. I could care less if the SES lamp is on. The car is a turd. I just want it to run somewhat smoothly and be drivable. Of course it's impossible to get to my plugs or the o2 sensor since this duratec fills the engine bay like John Candy fills Old Country Buffet.
 

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Maybe start by changing the dpfe sensor (egr backpressure sensor). When they fail, they can throw a bunch of other non-related codes other than their own po401. I would get the borg-warner one at advance auto or oreilly. Part# egr155. Also clean out the c-shaped channel behind the tb gasket to the egr valve. Might want to read the: hard start thread a few above this one. With the corrugated air hose tube and tb off, check/replace pcv valve and hose. Good luck.
 

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One mechanic seems to think my coverter is plugged for bank 1. If I remove the converter and replace w/ a pipe, will the car run ok in theory? He says I can drill holes in the converter as a cobble fix. Sounds like BS to me. I could care less if the SES lamp is on. The car is a turd. I just want it to run somewhat smoothly and be drivable. Of course it's impossible to get to my plugs or the o2 sensor since this duratec fills the engine bay like John Candy fills Old Country Buffet.
If you have any "mechanic" citing replacing the catalytic converter with a straight pipe as a "diagnosis", they are no mechanic. Not only is that illegal, but also won't fix anything.

When cats fail they fail one of two ways, coming apart from too much raw fuel, too much heat, too many fuel additives, in which they just become an empty resonator, which will trigger a P0420 Catalyst Efficiency Below Threshold code, because the downstream oxygen sensor will begin to switch from lean to rich. If it gets clogged, exhaust gas will not be able to exit and typically your speed is limited to about 35 or 40 MPH.

Replace O2s, plugs, DPFE and find the source of your vacuum leak.
 
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