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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello all. I just signed up a few minutes ago...
I am now the owner of a Taurus 1998 SE - but that's about all I know about it, or cars in general. Even though I've been a driver for the last 6 years, I never had my own car and I always trusted others with fixing and tinkering the even the smallers of things. I am pretty sure I could change a tire if I have too, but there are many many more things I should know and I don't. Here are some questions I have... I ran a search for most of them, but I would appreciate and help - even if it means directing me to a different post :p

First of - tires.
My tires make a little hissing noise every time I go over a bump in the road, it sounds like air is getting out. The front tires seem somewhat flat, and I would like to fill air in them... I know the pressure table (or numbers) are on a sticker at the side of the door, but can someone tell me what exactly am I looking for? there are a bunch of numbers there, including the VPN.

Another issue is the little red-warning light about an open door. I double checked, all of my doors are closed, but the light is still on. Any suggestions?

More...? sure: At high speeds on highway, there is a low humming noise. I think it comes from the wheels or something. When I got the car, the back wheel's break (I don't know what part of it, I think it's the plate that the breaks press on, I am missing the jargon) was really pressing on the wheel and it rubbed it hard when I drove, I have to get it fixed. Maybe it's connected to this problem? The humming noise starts at around 50mph, and reaches a peak at 60 - 65. it is monotonic, like a wavy sound, the frequency changes with the speed. when I go over 65 and into 70, the noise is gone. anyone has any idea what's that about?

That's it for now. I'm sure there would be ton of more questions... any comments are welcome!

--Beholder
 

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First of - tires.
My tires make a little hissing noise every time I go over a bump in the road, it sounds like air is getting out. The front tires seem somewhat flat, and I would like to fill air in them... I know the pressure table (or numbers) are on a sticker at the side of the door, but can someone tell me what exactly am I looking for? there are a bunch of numbers there, including the VPN.
That is the sound of your struts compressing. Not your tires losing pressure.
For daily driving I would reccomend 32-35 PSI all the way around. If you are more agressive like me, Id reccomend 35-37 PSI.

Another issue is the little red-warning light about an open door. I double checked, all of my doors are closed, but the light is still on. Any suggestions?
This is a common issue with tauuses. Spray some contact cleaner in the door where the switch is. The switch is inside the door, riht where the little "arm" connects the door to the frame near the top. You will understand when you look. 99.9% chance it is your drivers door.

More...? sure: At high speeds on highway, there is a low humming noise. I think it comes from the wheels or something. When I got the car, the back wheel's break (I don't know what part of it, I think it's the plate that the breaks press on, I am missing the jargon) was really pressing on the wheel and it rubbed it hard when I drove, I have to get it fixed. Maybe it's connected to this problem? The humming noise starts at around 50mph, and reaches a peak at 60 - 65. it is monotonic, like a wavy sound, the frequency changes with the speed. when I go over 65 and into 70, the noise is gone. anyone has any idea what's that about?
My first impression is a bad wheel bearing, but if you said you have brake issues, then that could be it. After re reading your post...its def a bad wheel bearing. I had 2 of em on my last car. Drive me nutz.

That's it for now. I'm sure there would be ton of more questions... any comments are welcome!
More questions are welome! As there is not an aftermarket for our cars, there re many performance mods and asthetic mods we here at the TCCA have designed ourselves. So wether or not you want to modify your ride, there are many matinence things and preventitive mantinece thigs that can be done to your car.

The first and most important thing I can reccomend is that you change your tranny fluid and ADD A TRANNY COOLER. The tranny is the weakest part of your car and this will help ALOT.

All the problems you have descirbed are not life threatingin and typical.

You will find alot of answers to the questions you have by looking in the archives or searching. Were always willing to help. :D

BTW: Welcome to the TCCA! :banana: :chili:

Brad
 

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First off WELCOME to the club

As far as the door ajar light being on, welcome to the club again. In my case, i just pulled out the interior lights that stay on when the red light comes on. And the tires, on the side wall of the tir, it should give a max air pressure for the tire and I roughly stay about 5lbs below that. But I don't much about tire pressure so someone else might be better answering that for you. But it's always worked for me.

Also a main question around here is "what engine you got in that"?? They all come witha 3.0 but, is it the DOHC 24V motor or NOT. Lift the hood and see if it says Duratec on the upper intake ( the big metal coloerd thing with the runners going into the motor (actuall the goes into the lower intake). Or do you have the badge on the side of your front quarter panel, or do you have the dual muffler set-up?? These are all way of finding out what motor you have. I too have a 98 SE with the Duratec motor.

Good luck with your BULL

Dylan
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the quick reply guys, and for the warm welcome!

First off, I want to make sure I understand all the words you're using. See, English is my second langue, and my technical jargon when it comes to car is zero to none... So, some clarifications could help.

That is the sound of your struts compressing
Struts - I guess these are basically my shock observers? That's a noise I don't hear in my other car (it's a Toyota, eech). I am happy to know it's normal and it should stay that way...

For daily driving I would reccomend 32-35 PSI all the way around. If you are more agressive like me, Id reccomend 35-37 PSI
Alright, I just learned what PSI is. Yes, I've been driving for 5 years without filling air in the tires for once by myself - we always did it when we changed tires in a local garage.... (blushing). When you say 'all around' you mean all for wheels? between 35 to 37? can I check my current air pressure when I use the compressor at a gas station? It suppose to show on the clock thing I hope...


My first impression is a bad wheel bearing
Alright, what's wheel bearing exactly? Does it has to do with alighnemnt, because if so, I will never use that garage again he told me he did it.. I was probably ripped off, one of the main reasons why I am eager to learn more, much more.

Err, and yeah, what's a contact cleaner....? I used to be in the army and we used to oil the guns with that WP40 spray or whatever it's called, I think it might be good for that... am I right? wrong?


D - man - not sure what you mean by the engine? I did find a big 3.0 and V6 ... where exactly are the details? (I don't have the manual) . I am sending a picture of the side sticker. can someone please go over the numbers with me and tell me what is what on it?

So many questions! I appreciate the patience! :notworthy:
 

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Struts - I guess these are basically my shock observers? That's a noise I don't hear in my other car (it's a Toyota, eech). I am happy to know it's normal and it should stay that way...
Struts are the shock and spring assembly. More specifically, the shocks have a rubber protective boot. When the shock compresses, air leaks out. Not a problem.

Alright, I just learned what PSI is. Yes, I've been driving for 5 years without filling air in the tires for once by myself - we always did it when we changed tires in a local garage.... (blushing). When you say 'all around' you mean all for wheels? between 35 to 37? can I check my current air pressure when I use the compressor at a gas station? It suppose to show on the clock thing I hope...
All around is all 4 tires. you can get a pressure guage for a few bucks at the store, i would get one as the guages ate the fill up places are not accurate.

Alright, what's wheel bearing exactly? Does it has to do with alighnemnt, because if so, I will never use that garage again he told me he did it.. I was probably ripped off, one of the main reasons why I am eager to learn more, much more.
The bearing is the device that lets your wheel spin without crating alot of friction. It is Unrelated to the alignment, and they would not know it is bad without driving the car over 50 MPH.

Err, and yeah, what's a contact cleaner....? I used to be in the army and we used to oil the guns with that WP40 spray or whatever it's called, I think it might be good for that... am I right? wrong?
Contact cleaner is a spray can of an alcahol based cleaner safe for electronics. I have tried WD-40 (what you meant to say) and it did not work for me, but has worked for others.

D - man - not sure what you mean by the engine? I did find a big 3.0 and V6 ... where exactly are the details? (I don't have the manual) . I am sending a picture of the side sticker. can someone please go over the numbers with me and tell me what is what on it?
If your front valve cover is black and says V6, then you have a vulcan engine (145 HP OHV-over head valve) if you have a badge on the fender that says "24v DOHC" then you have a Duratec engine (200HP DOHC-dual overhead cam).

Based on your VIN number, you have a 1998 FORD TAURUS LX/SE/SPORT 3.0L V6 SFI ... translation....vulcan engine

Hope this helps!

Brad
 
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Welcome to the TCCA! You're now part of one of the most helpful places you'll find on the internet. We have members from all walks of life, and a lot of different languages. If you need to, I'm sure someone could help out with the language barrier if it becomes a problem. What's your primary language?

I see all the other guys have helped with your issues, and here's something you may want to check for the dome light/red light problem: Dome light fix. As Brad (Baby SHO) said, sometimes the WD40 doesn't work, but it's the same procedure whether you use contact cleaner, or WD40.

Please let us know if there's anything else we can help you with, that's what we're here for! :thumb:



-Bob Gervais, President
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Hey that reminds me, I don't have light at all when the door is open. My guess it this is an old problem and the guy that used to have the car simply disconnected the sensor or whatever. If I spray and get this latch clean, can I re-attach the sensor (or whatever that is?) is it hard to do?
 
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Originally posted by Beholder@Jun 27 2004, 01:00 PM
Hey that reminds me, I don't have light at all when the door is open. My guess it this is an old problem and the guy that used to have the car simply disconnected the sensor or whatever. If I spray and get this latch clean, can I re-attach the sensor (or whatever that is?) is it hard to do?
The previous owner most likely pulled the bulb, or the fuse, so that it wouldn't drain the battery. You'd have to check the dome light (pull off the clear cover) to see if there's a bulb in there. If not, it's as simple as installing one. If there is, the fuse may be pulled, and you'll just have to put one back in. Both very easy to do, just let us know what you need to do and we'll help you out.
 

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Don't listen to Bob, he has no clue what he is talking about....

heres MY advice...

The previous owner most likely pulled the bulb, or the fuse, so that it wouldn't drain the battery. You'd have to check the dome light (pull off the clear cover) to see if there's a bulb in there. If not, it's as simple as installing one. If there is, the fuse may be pulled, and you'll just have to put one back in. Both very easy to do, just let us know what you need to do and we'll help you out.

:p

Brad
 

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For the tires, there may be a different sticker on the door with the recommended inflation pressure. Don't listen to what the other guy was saying about putting in 5 lbs less for air pressure. I always like to have the max or a little more in the tires if I've been driving a little.

Also that number is a cold inflation number which means you shouldn't be driving around on the highway for several miles before putting air in, hitting the brakes will heat up the wheel and heat up the air causing you to have a higher reading than when it's cold. That's why it's best to get a guage at a store so you can check it in the morning before you drive anywhere. On Gen4 cars, for some reason they like to recommend 30 which I think is because a lower PSI gives you a softer ride, I like 35 myself. You're supposed to go by the manufacturer but not to exceed the number listed on the sidewall of the tire. A tire that is underinflated will actually cause the car to handle worse, decrease gas mileage and increase stopping distances along with generating more heat (tire flexes more generating heat). I would check it at least ever few months although they do recommended at every fill up, like anyone ever does that. Seasonal changes are especially important because a tire that's normal in the summer is going to be low in the winter.

Oh as for contact cleaner, not sure which is the best, but WD-40 probably isn't good. It'll work for a little while, but the residue will attract dust so don't use it.
 

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Don't listen to what the other guy was saying about putting in 5 lbs less for air pressure
Hmmm...id disagree...that rule of thumb is perfect. Plus, it puts you at the reccomended pressure of 35 psi....40 is max on 99.8% of tires out there.

My advice, dont listen to HenrySel, as he is going to unevenly wear his tires out....

by overinflating or even sitting at max pressure, you will wear out the middle of the tire faster. Want proof? i can privide pics of my 16" tires that were rated at 40PSI max, and i ran 40 PSI and the middle is BALD.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, buy ythe advice HenrySel gave will lead to premature wear.....

He is correct about only one thing, that is a cold rating, check the pressure and fill when they are relitivly cold....

Brad
 
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I'll have to go out and tell my 97 to stop shutting off the dome lights because they've had WD40 on them for 4 years. :p
 

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Originally posted by Baby SHO@Jun 27 2004, 05:32 PM
Don't listen to what the other guy was saying about putting in 5 lbs less for air pressure
Hmmm...id disagree...that rule of thumb is perfect. Plus, it puts you at the reccomended pressure of 35 psi....40 is max on 99.8% of tires out there.

My advice, dont listen to HenrySel, as he is going to unevenly wear his tires out....

by overinflating or even sitting at max pressure, you will wear out the middle of the tire faster. Want proof? i can privide pics of my 16" tires that were rated at 40PSI max, and i ran 40 PSI and the middle is BALD.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, buy ythe advice HenrySel gave will lead to premature wear.....

He is correct about only one thing, that is a cold rating, check the pressure and fill when they are relitivly cold....

Brad
Brad,I dont get it in your post at 9:20 you say you ride at 35 to 37 psi for improved handling yet when HenrySEl says he uses 35 psi you say he will wear out his tires. Are you trying to confuse everybody?? :p Every tire manufacturer says if you underinflate you get, bad handling, uneven tire wear, and bad gas mileage. If you over inflate your tires you will get uneven tire wear, harsh ride. You get better handling only if you inflate about 5 or 6 psi more then the car maker recomends for your vehicle. Motocross racers with stock tires use this practice for taking corners better. But once you start overinflating by more then 6 psi or so you actually start losing handling. I use a psi of 33 filled at 70 degrees on my Gen IV only because there is on average a 40 degree difference between the daily high and low temps where I live during the summer. Each 10 degree drop in temp correlates to a pound or so loss of pressure, so my tires psi can vary by 5 psi. My vehicle rides ok when its 90 or 40 degrees out in spite of the 50 degree difference. I think most drivers can get a feel for how they like the handling and gas mileage at different psi and stick with what works best for them.
 

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im saying that if you fill your tires to 40 psi you will wear the unevenly....(he said he likes to run at max or higher...this indicates he runs at 40+ psi....NOT 35 psi.

i like to run at 37psi, because im 20 and drive my car like i stole it B) the 37 psi helps the tire from rolling under. (like on an auto cross track you run at 45-50 psi.

My last few ses of tires i have all run @40 psi and the all wear the middle pre-maturly. (the outside edge is well above the tread wear indicator while the middle of the tire is BALD.)

So to answer your question of:
Are you trying to confuse everybody??
The answer is no, But you probbaly did! :p :lol2:

J/K

Brad
 

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Originally posted by HenrySel@Jun 27 2004, 02:51 PM
For the tires, there may be a different sticker on the door with the recommended inflation pressure. Don't listen to what the other guy was saying about putting in 5 lbs less for air pressure. I always like to have the max or a little more in the tires if I've been driving a little.

Also that number is a cold inflation number which means you shouldn't be driving around on the highway for several miles before putting air in, hitting the brakes will heat up the wheel and heat up the air causing you to have a higher reading than when it's cold. That's why it's best to get a guage at a store so you can check it in the morning before you drive anywhere. On Gen4 cars, for some reason they like to recommend 30 which I think is because a lower PSI gives you a softer ride, I like 35 myself. You're supposed to go by the manufacturer but not to exceed the number listed on the sidewall of the tire. A tire that is underinflated will actually cause the car to handle worse, decrease gas mileage and increase stopping distances along with generating more heat (tire flexes more generating heat).  I would check it at least ever few months although they do recommended at every fill up, like anyone ever does that. Seasonal changes are especially important because a tire that's normal in the summer is going to be low in the winter. 

Oh as for contact cleaner, not sure which is the best, but WD-40 probably isn't good. It'll work for a little while, but the residue will attract dust so don't use it.

From above HenrySel says :"On Gen4 cars, for some reason they like to recommend 30 which I think is because a lower PSI gives you a softer ride, I like 35 myself". He also says "I always like to have the max or a little more in the tires if I've been driving a little."


Wait a minute lets just agree to blame all the confusion on Henrysel. :lol2:









j/k
 

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Originally posted by Baby SHO@Jun 27 2004, 07:32 PM
Don't listen to what the other guy was saying about putting in 5 lbs less for air pressure
Hmmm...id disagree...that rule of thumb is perfect. Plus, it puts you at the reccomended pressure of 35 psi....40 is max on 99.8% of tires out there.

My advice, dont listen to HenrySel, as he is going to unevenly wear his tires out....

by overinflating or even sitting at max pressure, you will wear out the middle of the tire faster. Want proof? i can privide pics of my 16" tires that were rated at 40PSI max, and i ran 40 PSI and the middle is BALD.

Everyone is entitled to their own opinion, buy ythe advice HenrySel gave will lead to premature wear.....

He is correct about only one thing, that is a cold rating, check the pressure and fill when they are relitivly cold....

Brad
I think you guys are missing what I actually said. I said to go by the manufacturers number which in this case is 30. The little more in my case turns out to be 35. I never recommended 40, I just mentioned that mine says 30 and I like to do 35 as it rides a little better.

Plus as you may recall with the whole exploding Explorer tire recall, Ford recommended a lower tire pressure than the tire manufacturer and it was Firestone that disagreed with the recommended tire inflation pressure. Ford was recommending the lower number for the softer ride and to limit complaints about a harsh ride, it's harsh enough as it is because it's a truck. The net result was that some tires became underinflated through normal use/air loss and when driving in high temperatures, the extra flex from the tire generated extra heat and lead to premature tire failure.

I just happen to like the ride and handling a little better at 35 than at 30 and that doesn't exceed the tire rating (which is actually 44 on the Continentals). 35 seemed to be the typical number on most other cars I've owned so I feel pretty safe at that pressure. Your mileage of course may vary...

The other guy mentioned keeping it 5 lbs below max tire inflation would put it at 39 which could cause premature wear in the center of the tire. Not sure if it would though.
 

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your car weighs 4722Lbs!!!! god....the newer are too stinkin heavy mine clocks in at like 3500 now...sorry, i just think they are a little heavy....power to weight ratio is very important...
 

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Originally posted by TaurusRacerZ9@Jun 27 2004, 11:40 PM
your car weighs 4722Lbs!!!! god....the newer are too stinkin heavy mine clocks in at like 3500 now...sorry, i just think they are a little heavy....power to weight ratio is very important...
GVWR refers to the total maximum weight of the vehicle with all fluids and passengers and cargo. According to one site, the curb weight of that vehicle is really 3353. I think the standard number they used to use is 150 pounds per passenger and maybe around 100 pounds for stuff in the trunk, it's usually listed somewhere, maybe manual, of what the maximum weight should be in the trunk. Then there's gasoline which at 16 gal X 6 lbs = 96 pounds.

Not really sure if they use the 150 pounds number anymore, with over 50% of Americans overweight, it does seem a little low and unrealistic, but I guess once they pick a number, they probably can't change it too easily from year to year.

Guess it doesn't matter that much in a car, it did cause a commuter jet to crash as it was a small 30 passenger jet and it was full, but the pilot didn't make an accurate calculation of total weight and hence it was overloaded on takeoff.
 
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