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Starting in the spring, my boyfriend and I are going to refinish his garage. We're installing recessed shop lights, finishing the walls and hopefully adding heat and fans.



I'm quite capable of doing all of the above except adding a heat source. What would you guys suggest we do to a 1.5 car garage that always houses a vehicle and some exercise equipement? The garage is attached to the house via a closed-roof porch, it already has electricity run and has one window (in addition, of course, to the door)



I'd also like to see pics of everyone's workspace/garage. :)

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I just put in a furnace and A/C unit this summer. I got the equipment for free when a neighbor replaced his stuff for newer, more efficient stuff. It took another $150~200 to get it up and running. I did all the work myself though. I thought that was damn reasonable for heat and central air. My garage is also my office and I need to be able to keep it comfortable.
Do you have easy access to the gas used to heat the house? If not, you may have to go with some type of portable unit. I do not have any experience with these units. Oh yea. use a carbon monoxide detector whatever you do!
Jeff

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^^^^^^^^^^^
That's a good ideal
 

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Famliar with electrical aspect? Before putting a Heater out there, suppose to have it's own dedicated circuit obviously but could get away without doing so depending. Depends on the size.

For a clean install I'd think about something like this.


(this one is $200)

but there would be some work involved in cutting it in as a permanent solution and getting wire down the wall to it. MANY variations of that kind of unit so could look around.

But a solution that works just as well is going Walmart and buying a portable plug in. They kick out some decent heat. My grandpa has 8 75watt lights (those can be heat sources too people don't realize, not effiecient, but heat all the same) and 2 Walmart bought heats. The lights alone make his 3 car insulated garage comfortable enough to work in. The heats by your work area make you sweat if given time.

I would no more info since I work as electrician and install these wall heaters, toe kick heats, etc but it's the boss that buys them and gets info. I just install.
 

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I do electrical work on the side. I ust recently put in electric baseboard heating units for a friend and wired it to a digital temp thermostat. I did set it up on it's own circuit breaker (highly recommened). If you did something like that, you could program the thermostat to come on early in the AM before you go to work and then turn off shortyl thereafter, or just turn it on manually whenever you use the exercise equipment. A quick an easy way, depending on your use of the garage would be just to buy a Torpedo heater.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks guys.

We were thinking about the wall-hanging garage heaters, but unfortunately the ones I've dug up all need a 240 outlet.

I do electrical work on the side. I ust recently put in electric baseboard heating units for a friend and wired it to a digital temp thermostat. I did set it up on it's own circuit breaker (highly recommened). If you did something like that, you could program the thermostat to come on early in the AM before you go to work and then turn off shortyl thereafter, or just turn it on manually whenever you use the exercise equipment. A quick an easy way, depending on your use of the garage would be just to buy a Torpedo heater. [/b]


That sounds pretty cool - any pics or more info for me to check out?? :)



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Ash, don't worry about the 240 line.

Do you have a breaker box in the garage already? If so, you'll just need a double pole breaker and 3-wire. If it's a 20 amp heater, you'll need 12-3 wire, a 30 amp will need 10-3, 40 amp needs 8-3, etc. Try to minimize the distance, as 3-wire is EXPENSIVE!

If you need help, give me a call...I just got done rewiring my entire house (I'm not as good as TheJcode, as he does this for a living, but I'm probably cheaper!).

I'm planning on putting an electric heater, hung from the ceiling, in the garage very soon, because it gets freaking COLD out there!

My father-in-law has a 2 car garage with an electric heater, along with a window air conditioner. The heater keeps his garage at 50 degrees when he's not in there, and can have the temp up to 70 in about 20 minutes.

Otherwise, you could get a propane burner to use out there. When we installed Timmy's sway bars, we were at one of my resident's houses, and he had this thing that looked like a jet engine, and that thing was able to heat a five car garage from about 40 degrees to 70 in 10 minutes. It got so hot in there that we had to periodically turn it off so we weren't sweating like pigs!

JR
 

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Ash, don't worry about the 240 line.

Do you have a breaker box in the garage already? If so, you'll just need a double pole breaker and 3-wire. If it's a 20 amp heater, you'll need 12-3 wire, a 30 amp will need 10-3, 40 amp needs 8-3, etc. Try to minimize the distance, as 3-wire is EXPENSIVE!

If you need help, give me a call...I just got done rewiring my entire house (I'm not as good as TheJcode, as he does this for a living, but I'm probably cheaper!).

I'm planning on putting an electric heater, hung from the ceiling, in the garage very soon, because it gets freaking COLD out there!

My father-in-law has a 2 car garage with an electric heater, along with a window air conditioner. The heater keeps his garage at 50 degrees when he's not in there, and can have the temp up to 70 in about 20 minutes.

Otherwise, you could get a propane burner to use out there. When we installed Timmy's sway bars, we were at one of my resident's houses, and he had this thing that looked like a jet engine, and that thing was able to heat a five car garage from about 40 degrees to 70 in 10 minutes. It got so hot in there that we had to periodically turn it off so we weren't sweating like pigs!

JR
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don't you have to see if her box can handle that or if she has any open slots on the panel.
i maybe wrong too but the amps coming into the house.
 

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I'm planning on putting an electric heater, hung from the ceiling, in the garage very soon, because it gets freaking COLD out there!
[/b]
We've got one of these in my dad's workshop. It's roughly equivalent to a 1.5-car garage, but it's got a fairly high ceiling.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
<div class='quotemain'>I'm planning on putting an electric heater, hung from the ceiling, in the garage very soon, because it gets freaking COLD out there!
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We've got one of these in my dad's workshop. It's roughly equivalent to a 1.5-car garage, but it's got a fairly high ceiling. [/b][/quote]



Sweet, that's like what I was looking at. It's not an extremely high ceiling but it's high enough where neither of us can reach without a ladder (he's 6' and I'm 5'7)...



JR, I honestly can't recall if he has a breaker box in there... I'll have to look the next time I'm over there. I know the junk needs to get out of there to start insulation and drywall work though!



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Would a portable propane powered heater cut it? Thats the first thing that came to my head. Those things are damn hot, but im not sure how far it will spread the heat. They are good for warming up my bedroom though.
 

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The only two reasons for not going with propane right now is: the heat is wonderfully hot when in use (we had a nice torpedo propane heater in my old garage) but the gasses it emits makes me dizzy and light headed with no vent. How would I vent that gas?? and also I've heard propane is pretty expensive now.

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The only two reasons for not going with propane right now is: the heat is wonderfully hot when in use (we had a nice torpedo propane heater in my old garage) but the gasses it emits makes me dizzy and light headed with no vent. How would I vent that gas?? and also I've heard propane is pretty expensive now.
[/b]
Open the garage a little bit to make the temperatures mix to make it nice and comfy, and vent the gasses. Idk lol.

And prices, yes its going up, but remember, natural gas and electricity isnt free either. Gotta weigh everything out.
 

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Just from the safety aspect, a built-in electric heater is the way to go. If you're refinishing a garage anyway, best to do it right. Why mess around with fueling a heater and needing to vent it?

Besides, they add to clutter. A ceiling-mounted heater is the only thing I'd ever do. Floor space is hard to come by.
 

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If you don't have a breaker box, it's fairly easy to add one...just dig a trench (check on how deep it needs to be) and bury aluminum supply line (very cheap) in a gray PVC pipe into the garage. Install the breaker box, tie it into the main breaker box in the house, profit.

I ran 12/2 out to my shed, but I don't have a sub-box out there. I'm eventually going to pull it back and make a run of 10/3, so I can put a 30 amp box out there with 240 potential.

JR
 

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If you don't have a breaker box, it's fairly easy to add one...just dig a trench (check on how deep it needs to be) and bury aluminum supply line (very cheap) in a gray PVC pipe into the garage. Install the breaker box, tie it into the main breaker box in the house, profit.

I ran 12/2 out to my shed, but I don't have a sub-box out there. I'm eventually going to pull it back and make a run of 10/3, so I can put a 30 amp box out there with 240 potential.

JR
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I'm no electrician, but I do have a copy of the NEC (National electric code) and I seem to recall that you need to use UF (Underground Feeder) cable when running wires in the ground. I think it also has to be a certain depth too, would have to look it up in the book. Oh, I guess it depends how you do it, between 6 to 24 inches depending on a variety of factors like conduit and purpose.

Anyway, in terms of price, electricity is the most expensive type of heat, but if you don't need it too often, the equipment is relatively cheap and a somewhat easy to install. The cheapest is probably natural gas, but you need to run a gas line and the equipment is more expensive. You could check for gas heaters on craigslist, a popular company is Modine, they make the ones that hang from the ceiling. Propane is a little bit more expensive than natural gas.
 

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Scanning over everyone said so if I'm stepping over what someone else said ignore me lol.

The best thing to determine is what route your going as far as a heater, and if you have a panel in your garage. I was going to type a big schpeel to cover all grounds but it'll get confusing fast.

What Godspunk has said is pretty accurate. First thing to start off with is if do you have a Panel in your garage? It could be as small as what he has, a 30 amp breaker box with probably 4 slots in it. I Can help, get into more detail, from there if you have one. If not be more involved and can still help but be more on what you can do. Also if you don't, what kind of electrical things do you have in your garage. How many plugs and lights and whatever else.

Anyways, I can help you, and I won't necessarily be telling you from a Code biding nutcase (read: expensive). I just can tell you how to do it so it's safe and cheap. There's always a cheap way to do this kind of thing, but it's easy to trip over that fine line and end up with a fire hazard. I've heard stories of people sticking penny's in place of breakers when they didn't have extras! Electrical stuff is easy to do, especially with right guidance. Biggest issue is don't use under rated wire (dont pull a 14awg where 20 is needed, big heat problem right there).

Wire is color coded now. Mainly for easy for the inspector. Kitchens require 12 awg and various other places and back in the day, inspectors had to take the time to feel the wire or read on the casing what it is. Now just scanning the house is enough since it's all color coded.

14awg is good for 15 amps (white wire)
12awg - 20 amps (yellow wire)
10awg - 30 amps orange wire)
8awg - 40 amps. (everything below this is black)

On using Torpedos, get a Kerosene heater one!!!! We have one (its multi fuel. Can use diesel, kerosene, or jet fuel(yes, jet fuel lol)), and I've literally sat down at lunch 5 feet infront of it and has no smell nor leaves you with burning eyes or a headache like propane does. It's perfect for close quarters work. Ive had that thing pointing right at me for over an hour working on my sled and had no ill effects. Can always look into one of those. But yes, stay away from propane i hate those things.

This is long enough as it is so I'll stop now :lol:

IF you do have questions I really can help. I've been getting dumped into houses by myself and wiring whole thing with my step dad going through and marking what's where. He laid it out and I can pull it all. If need help or have questions I have no problem answering them. I could wire that garage for you myself if you were closer but can help through emails or whatever when your getting close to time.

Come to think of it, I could even draw up a half-ass sketch in paint and send that to you as guidance farily easily with what wire you need, what devices (single switch vs 3 way swtich vs 4 way switch), and how to run the wire. With the recess lighting and fans and all that.
 

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if you have an attached garage, it should be very easy to reroute a duct from the furnace.

if you have a detached garage, the best options ive ever seen are (1), a Reznor or equivalent hanging furnace (propane or natural gas), or (2), a wood burning stove.

Reznor also produces heaters that can run on diesel, kerosene, or used motor oil.
 

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I'm no electrician, but I do have a copy of the NEC (National electric code) and I seem to recall that you need to use UF (Underground Feeder) cable when running wires in the ground. I think it also has to be a certain depth too, would have to look it up in the book. Oh, I guess it depends how you do it, between 6 to 24 inches depending on a variety of factors like conduit and purpose.

Anyway, in terms of price, electricity is the most expensive type of heat, but if you don't need it too often, the equipment is relatively cheap and a somewhat easy to install. The cheapest is probably natural gas, but you need to run a gas line and the equipment is more expensive. You could check for gas heaters on craigslist, a popular company is Modine, they make the ones that hang from the ceiling. Propane is a little bit more expensive than natural gas.
[/b]
True... unless the wires are run through conduit, which is much safer anyway. also, no matter what the NEC says, there is never any excuse for electrical lines to be run any less than 24" deep. anything less is far too susceptible to damage.

Also, yes, Natural gas is cheaper than Propane, but it also contains less energy, so in theory, the costs could end up being about the same.
 
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